Hello all.

Electrics are not my suit. It's bad, and I need a little help here.

When this XKR went for a Texas swim anything that didn't drain quickly, fried... The door locking actuators, well, they are like a cup it seems and when the water got in, there was no way for it to drain.

I took a risk (well not so much) and spent 20something on four of these. It was described as a fit... My question is,,,, from the diagrams,,, which of these wire would the OE brown and white (NW) wire connect to into the non OE drivers locking actuator? Would I need to understand where the 37 comes from, because I don't, lol. Heaven help me, lol.

 

How many wires does the original actuator have coming out of it? You might be better off using a multimeter or taking it apart to work out what goes where. The 37 in a box is referenced at the bottom of the page - it looks like it is on Figure 1.2 - and yes, you probably should understand the wiring diagrams before using them to wire new things up, lol.

BTW the wiring diagram you have posted doesn't show the door lock actuator - that's on the right side of the page. Are you looking at the right wires?

 

Well, dip me in sugar and call me,,,,,

Your right! I gather these photos as screen shots from the ED on my phone sometimes,,, guess I chose the wrong one in the "gallery" to post and was looking at the wrong one altogether - from outset last night. I'll see if I can figure it out... Thanks.

Still, any guidance would be appreciated. If I waited til I FULLY understood the wiring diagrams (and many other things about these cars) I wouldn't need the forum, lol. For that matter, I would still be wondering if replacing the head on a Jaguar XK8 was something I could do, 4 years ago. I like the forum... I babble

There are 5 wires (I believe) coming out of the original. Removed it and had it in my hand over the weekend, weekend before last, then reinstalled it...

With windows down, car running (or not) I can move the door handles with key or by hand. I hear clicks (relays) under the passengers side dash. No operation of the locks. When I put her in gear,,, hear the clicks, no operation of the locks. At this stage in my rudimentary testing, most everything seems to work or want to except the actuator/solenoid... No movement at all. I haven't taken the units apart or opened them up, yet...

Door ajar signal works, door open signals work, lights come on when door opens,,, slowly dim on close. Alarm will "chirp" as secure on key turn with everything closed... All looks good. Just that the locks won't close automatically.

Gotta get this figured out.

 

Your first problem is the OEM actuator has an extra switch in it (LOCK STATUS) - you will have to work out how to add that switch.

The wire colours to connect are:-

OEM to New
Y Pin 3 to Blue
YG Pin 2 to Brown
YB Pin 1 to White

And connect the green and black wires on the new actuator together.

You might have to reverse the Brown and White as it's not clear which way round they are on the new actuator.

Be aware that sometimes the Jaguar wiring diagram isn't correct or is simplified.

Personally I would buy two OEM actuators from a breakers.

edit: I've just looked on eBay at the price of second hand actuators - I see now why you want to improvise.

 

Hey Man! Thanks!

I have tried to find OE, but all I find are people selling the whole door lock assembly,,, and every penny counts. There is a very real possibility that that is what's going to have to happen, but I thought I would try this first...

I didn't know about that internal switch. So thanks much for that clarity... I thought the switch was one of those micro switches I've read so much about - outside of the actuator. Damn!

Thanks MUCH for the clear explanation... I'm going to do as you say. Q: Please,,, help me understand the reasoning behind connecting the green and black,,, if you would? Then, I'll leave ya alone, lol

 

MIGHT connecting the black and green together deal with that internal missing switch? Is that why?

 

If you look at the original wiring diagram you can see that one side of the actuator motor goes to the common side of the switch - so the external connections are motor, and the two switch contacts.

Your new actuator isn't wired up like that, so you need to connect the motor to the common yourself.

I strongly recommend a multimeter and/or dismantling the original to make sure everything is as expected.

Edit: no, the missing switch isn't in your new unit.

 

Thank you. I will do my best...

 

Take the original actuator apart and post some photos here - it might be a lot clearer what you need to do.

Good luck!

 

I will. Most likely, Monday...

Thanks for alllllllllll your help!

 

Another thought is that the microswitches in the original actuator have probably failed due to the water ingress - these can almost certainly be sourced and replaced cheaply. The motor, if it is just a solenoid, might be fine. This is where the multimeter comes in.

 

Got ya! Thank you 😊

 

Hey, D... All these questions. Apologies.

So, I took a change and wrote the seller. Looks like the seller is actually the manufacturer. Doesn't always happen on eBay. Anyways, there reply to my questions about the unit and the "lock status" switch... Lol,,, thing is I don't know for sure if this answers my bloody question about the unit,,, because I don't know enough about electrics. This is what they wrote back:
Thank you for contacting us! The blue and green wires which will be connected to YG and YB in your schematic. Polarity of these two wires are dependent to how the actuator is oriented. The black, white and brown wires are the feedbacks, they are wired to a single pole double throw switch. From your schematic, black should be wired to BK as common, connect white or brown to Y(DP3-9) again depending on how the actuators are mounted.

And that means, exactly,,,,,? I hate this not knowing isht

I wrote them back asking SPECIFICALLY (like yes/no) if this actuator will work for my application,,,, I am waiting on their reply...

 

Well its his actuator so maybe he knows how it is wired internally - I'm dubious though as he has only told you where 4 of the 5 wires go and his instructions don't match the diagram - presumably you just connect up whichever wires are left over and cross your fingers.

I would take the old actuator apart and take one of your new ones apart (as you have two spares) and compare the two before risking blowing anything up by wiring it up blindly, lol.

 

Hey! Good morning, Mannn...

Yeah, I reread the message a few times (ya must know I did) and thought the EXACT same... What about the extra wire. Thats when I noticed he HAD covered all 5...

From memory,,, he says green and blue (trigger) to Y,,, G&B... Black to ground/common - and then white and/or brown to DP 3 & 9... But he used a dash... I should have read the message closer last night because the 4 of 5 wires had me lose sleep, a lil...

After he sent a second message when I asked specifically about the "lock sensor" switch and he wrote: Yes these actuator will replace most rod actuated locks and to provide position references .

Im going to have to take another look, but from what I remember the lock actuators are not an easy open. But you are right in in that if I can save or even learn something from the old actuators I need to open them up. If I connect the new ones and they work, I will feel a LOT more secure in opening up the spares... With this car,,, I don't assume that I am out of the woods with anything,,, until it seems I'm in some kinda tall grassy field,,, if ya git what I'm putting down, lol..

Anyways,,, forward! Hahahaha,,, if ya can call it that!?

I'm going home tonight to re-leather some interior rear quarter panels for my 928... I'm good with GLUE AND STAPLES, lol... A little fiberglassing,,, sure. Electrical,,,, save it for the (smarter) birds!

 

Well good luck and let's hope your supplier is one of the smarter birds and those wire colours make sense when you come to connect them up.

Post back here to let us know how you get on.

 

Yup, yup and,,, yup...
Thank you 😊!

 

Damn good advice... I did what you said, both sides...
Thanks, Dib!

There's no easy way to take these things apart and although they did kinda click back together, I did run a zip tie around them to make sure they didn't pop open when,,,, actuatED...

Took just a few prompts turning the bronze gear. After I noticed a little access hole in the plastic cover that might let one get a pick in there and turn the gear BUT that might not be such a good idea because the plastic toothed gear could crack...

Working like a charm and will set off alarm on test, windows down, doors locked and alarm set with key (haven't reset the fob yet) and low and behold. Factory alarm works just right.

Great advice! Thanks again!

 

Glad you got it sorted out. Is everything working as it should with the door actuators now?

 

Man, Thanks for your guidance here. Yes, I'm glad too! Finding replacements,,, entire door lock assemblies,,, wouldn't have been hard - but costly. I am trying to avoid costs,,, at all costs, lol...

Yes, they seem to be working as they should. Most everything is. I know that more issues will rear there heads once actually on the road,,, but I am pleasantly surprised up to now that almost everything seems to be functioning and has come back online. I've spent very very very little, considering... My short list PRE drive:

- Fuel PWM modulation issues... I have the pump grounded directly, no PW,,, pump runs all the time - this is my most serious issue at this point. Constant 70.1lbs at the rail.
- O2 Sensor, bank 2 downstream, will need changing. I'm sure it was under water, water trapped in exhaust system, for a loooong time. I get CEL...
- HVAC recirc door flap actuators. I can find these easily. Getting to them and replacing is a different story.
- Seat recline and head rests. I have the Recaro seat backs that I believe work BUT the lower seat (*** section) will be mismatched - base XKR lower seat section. Oh well.
- Hinge pins, 4 or 5, in the Convertible top... VERY hard to find. Although I think a guy at Jaguar Heaven may have me covered. Then,,, a new pump motor.

Then,,, a few other things. I am very very happy, despite the list.

Thank you all!!!