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As I recall, one particular troubleshooting step I took for my particular issue was to leave the gas cap open when the car was parked.
The tank vapors went into the air instead of into the engine.
To be clear, I'm NOT saying you're having the same issue since my symptoms were slightly different, but heck, this is an easy troubleshooting step.
I do suggest trying to figure out a correlation, though, that might point the right direction.
Well, after running and starting fine all week, today it pulled that trick again with a twist.
Usually when it won't start, it just cranks and never tries to fire. Today, it sounded like it tried to fire initially then just crank on the starter and when I turned the key off, it sounded like it try to hit. This happened several times with 3 different keys.
I got out of the car and stared at it. I got back in and it started immediately before the starter had even cranked one revolution of the engine.
FYI, I checked the schrader valve and got sprayed with gas so that wasn't the issue. Did not/could not check for spark but I would have to say that it is pretty obvious that there wasn't any.
There is an intermittent shut down thread, and then this one so I am not sure,,, anyways
Have a COIL ready to pull (unbolted while driving will NOT hurt anything!!!) and the next time it does this (if you have a helper) slowwwwly pull the coil off the plug while you are cranking the engine. You will HEAR the spark jumping (if it's firing) and you might get the added treat of a jolt! If you don't have a helper to crank while you check pull the coil halfways out of its home (more or less) and reach into the car, head outside and crank and listen for the CRACK of a spark.
Pressure at the rail is good but it does not me the injectors are firing.
I have a feeling that there is no spark (or injector pulse) but at least you can eliminate the question.
If it was me I would eliminate/cut the inertia switch out of the loop! Just because.
Well, if i knew where the inertia switch was located on a Jaguar, I would. I have done this on other cars.
Can you tell me?
Sure. It's behind the LH vertical kick panel in the driver's foot well,,, where you foot/ankle would be when you are sitting in the car and driving. WU/RG in the diagram... Wires must be snipped, stripped back a little and tied together... There are 3 wires (from memory) and it takes just a few minutes. Leave enough wire on both sides to mend things.
I suggest this because,,, my interia switch was internally fried. My fuel pump wouldn't run BUT I had spark, the starter would crank, and the injectors would spray. Just no normally running pump. If I hot wired the pump the car would run (terrible fuel trims) but it would run.
This is figure 2.1 in the 2003 electrical diagram. See below.
Apart from the inertia switch,,, in the electrical diagrams,,, in figure 1.1 for example, you can REALLY get a sense of how important the fuse box relays are and all that they drive when energized and what can go wrong with a bad relay.
Warning - there are those that would advise against by-passing the inertia switch BUT it is reverse-able,,, if it turns out to be not the thing.
Its in the passenger fuse box in mine ...tall black tube with a button on the top. If its popped then the car will not start at all but if the contacts are faulty ..who knows. A bump can trigger it .its there to cut the engine when you crash ..ball bearing flies and opens contacts.
well, I drove the car the other day and it started and ran fine other than the following. The inside mirror fell off while I was driving, the trunk/boot decided halfway home to open and the check engine light came on with codes P1467 and P0452.
Havent tried to bypass the inertia switch yet but I would think that this would stop the car while driving if it was intermittently bad
The inside mirror fell off while I was driving, the trunk/boot decided halfway home to open and the check engine light came on with codes P1467 and P0452.
Lol - so a fairly uneventful journey then.
P0452 - Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor circuit low voltage (low pressure)
Can you confirm P1467 - I can't find that in the DTC list?
Update
The car has been running fine other than an oil leak seen on the driveway.
Today I decided to investigate the oil leak and guess what? The car was back to its old no start but crank over like crazy trick.
I had gotten an inline spark tester so I removed one of the coil packs and installed the in line tester between it and the spark plug.
It lights up with spark. Well, it never lit up and the car never tried to start.
I tested the spark tester on one of my Alfas to be sure it works and it lit up fine indicating spark.
Check for B+ on the Red/White wire at any of the coil packs (they're all spliced together) with the ignition on. If it's missing, then check F5 (10A) in the engine compartment fusebox is good/seated properly. You may or may not have an ignition coil relay (early cars only) here:
...check that, together with F5 (10A) in the engine management fusebox.
I seem to recall personal experiences like this with mainly Hondas. Their ignition switches got a reputation for becoming inconsistent.
The Jag ignition switch has 4 separate circuits that it grounds. The first is the key hole switch that identifies the presence of the key. The "auxiliary equipment" come on when the key is advanced one detent. Specific engine components energize with the next turn, the run position. The third turn engages the starter motor and disconnects the auxiliary while the engine cranks. The engine and auxiliary circuits are separate so most of the equipment may work perfectly but the engine components might not be grounding.
Well, I looked at the coil packs and there is no red and white wire. There is a red one but of course the car started a nd ran fine today so I cant trace something that is working. I did reseat fuse 5 and all the other fuses in that box just for the hell of it.
Wish I could figure out how to get a NOID light on one of the injectors. THey seem pretty inaccessible.
I bought one of those $65 Chinese fuel pumps and was quite pleased with its looks, design and operation. At what Jaguar wants for one pump you could buy 10 of these and change it every year ! Good luck !
Okay, here is the latest. I replaced the 7 year old battery even though it tested good. The car would crank but not start. Battery charge was a little low. 12.2 volts.
So I charged it and the car started.
Attached is a document showing all of the codes that I pulled from the car. Some may have been there for years for all i know.
Anyway, the ones with a yellow highlight came back after I cleared everything. The others did not. I am guessing that some might go away after a drive but not certain.
Any ideas? Thanks
They all have one thing in common- they all ground. When multiple errors crop up, especially chassis problems, it doesn't cost anything to check out/clean some chassis grounds.
Any of the heavy power leads (especially in the trunk), including battery terminals, that show corrosion, can be a significant voltage drop under loads.
Well, I have found no corrosion anywhere. There are several grounds in the trunk area that show no corrosion but I loosened them and cleaned them. Battery terminals are like new.
I have also pulled relays and fuses and found no corrosion.
I wish I had a map of where all the other connections are located.
any ideas where I could find those locations?
thanks
By hard reset, do you mean disconnect the battery?
Hard Reset as copied from one of the forum posts;
(do a search on the forum more hard reset background information.)
HARD RESET
Remove Negative Battery cable from the Negative Battery Post (10mm Wrench)
- Turn ignition key to on position - this provides a mechanical link to circuits that are isolated
- Turn off ignition
Touch Negative battery cable end to Positive battery cable end and hold there for 30 seconds
(Positive cable will still be connected to Positive Battery Post). When you touch the
negative cable to the positive cable on the battery, there should be nothing at all hooked to the negative terminal. Touching the disconnected negative cable end to the positive cable will short-circuit the supply rails at the ECU's & modules to discharge the internal capacitors. Any electricity stored in the electrical system drains out through the negative cable and into the chassis. The reason to drain the capacitors is THEY still have a complete circuit on the car so you are giving their positive terminal a path to ground to discharge them.
- Turn ignition key to on position
- Turn off ignition
Reconnect Negative Battery cable back to Negative Battery Post
It is normal after disconnecting the battery that your RPMs will be high when restarting your car and your acceleration will be very brisk. This is part of the ECM learning process and on your next start up it should be at normal levels. This is like doing a full restart and your car will be forced to learn again - you can also temporarily remove stored problem codes this way.
09-29-2022, 02:04 PM
