I just purchased the car last Saturday for $8500. The issues are:

1. When the car hits 65 mph, it begins to vibrate. By the time it hits 70 mph, it is shaking like a washing machine in spin cycle. The shaking only occurs at 65 mph and above speeds.
2. The tires are wearing on the inside--especially the front tires.

This is the first jaguar car I've ever owned. I feel that I don't have the knowledge and experience to be able to troubleshoot this vibration problem on my own, even with assistance and coaching available from helpful forum members. So, I'm taking my car to J & G Automotive in San Rafael, California. According to their website, their mechanics were trained in Great Britain, and have many years of experience diagnosing, troubleshooting, and repairing Jaguar cars. In my view, if they can fix the vibration issue for $1000 or less, I'll be happy, because I didn't overpay for the car. Actually, I can live with the inside tire wear if need be, because it isn't severe. But, if the mechanic can fix that issue, it will be "icing on the cake". After I get the diagnosis and estimate from J & G, I will share that information with the forum.

 

The wear on the inside of the front tyres can be caused by worn bushes and ball joints or misalignment.

 

NBCat, thanks for sharing your expertise. I made an appointment for Monday at J & G Automotive in San Rafael, CA for a diagnosis and estimate to fix the issues. After that, I will share the results on the forum.

 

2 ways to tell if it might be suspension issues before you take it in: measure ride height from the wheel center cap to the arch in the fender - should be around 15.75 inches; the other way is pop the hood and look at the shock mounts for deteriorating foam or shock bolt is not centered within the mount (see pic below). Jack up one side, take the tire off to look at bushings/ball joints. The suspension work can be done DIY if inclined. too bad you're on the west coast or I'd tell ya to drive it over and we'd take an afternoon to fix.

 

Hi Steve, the distance from the front wheel center hub to top of fender arch is 14 3/8" on both sides. I took a photo of the shock mount on the passenger side:

What do you think?

 

Hi Steve,
Thanks for the info! I took a photo of the shock mount, but then I couldn't figure out how to attach it to this "Quick Reply". So, I gave up on that, and clicked on the "Go Advanced" button, and then replied to the thread. The photo of my shock mount is show right below your post. Thanks.

 

Dean - based on your ride height and looking at the pic yes indeed the upper shock mounts will need replaced (at a minimum). You can go with OEM but plan to do the job again in about 3-4 years depending on intended driving habits (daily use, occasional, etc). There is a poly option but it as well has been known to fail prematurely. Forum members Wayne @cjd777 and @baxtor have come up with a solution that shows promising results, you may want to reach out to Wayne for availability as these are hand produced.

I have had the Mistress over 10 years and have replaced upper mounts 3 times so far - 1st time with OEM and a few years later they failed so went with poly. Those failed after about 3 years of daily driving so currently on second set of poly. If these go, I will be shifting to cjd777 & baxtor's product

I would also consider upper control arm bushings and sway bar bushings as in need of replacement

 

^^ What he said....

 

Steve, thank you for your fast response! I really appreciate your generosity in giving me the benefit of your experience. Although I'm not equipped to perform repairs on the car myself, because I lack access to the required tools and workspace, as well as repair skills, having accurate information about the condition of my car will better prepare me to interact with a qualified mechanic. For example, if the mechanic recommends replacing the shock upper mounts, upper control arm bushings and sway bar bushings, as seems likely, I would be reasonably confident that the repairs he recommends are actually needed, and would authorize the work. Being informed is always preferable to being uninformed, and armed with the knowledge you have provided, I feel I'm in a better position to deal with the mechanic on Monday.

 

Be aware that if you cannot DIY most of the maintenance and repairs these cars typically require, your checkbook is in for a bit of a shock....

 

Jon, thanks for that bit of advice. I have an appointment with a mechanic on Monday to diagnose the car's vibration and inner tire wear issues. I'll update the thread with his cost estimate next week. I feel some apprehension ahead of the appointment concerning the cost of repairs, and will let you know how it shakes out.

 

Dean, with your measurements the mechanic will most likely recommend new springs, just so you will be prepared for that, don't let them try to charge extra to install them as it's all part of replacing the upper shock mount and the strut system, new springs or not.

 

Wayne, thanks for the advice. I feel some trepidation with my Monday appointment with the mechanic fast approaching. I will try not to get charged extra for spring installation.

 

UPDATE: September 12, 2002

When I arrived at J & G Automotive this morning, I was surprised to find out that they no longer exist. Another firm, House of Brakes, now occupies their old location at 633 Irwin St. in San Rafael, CA. I checked online on Yelp and Google for reviews of House of Brakes, and there were nothing but positive reviews. The proprietor, Armaund, took my car on the freeway, and confirmed that the steering wheel shakes above 70 mph. After inspecting and driving my car, he diagnosed these problems that need attention:

1. Tires are worn out. Four (4) new 245R45 18 tires are needed. Also, wheel balance and alignment.
2. Front brake rotors are warped. Need new rotors and pads on front brakes.

Armaund raised the car up on the rack, and showed how two rubber boots on the front suspension were leaking grease. He also showed that one of the bushings of the stabilizer bar (?) had been damaged and was out of position. He also determined that the small amount of oil leakage on the bottom of my engine was coming from the valve cover at the top of the engine, caused by a leaking gasket. He told me my engine and transmission are good. He also stated that "rack and pinion steering systems are very expensive to get repaired", so he recommended that the work be done in stages. I asked him if the damaged suspension bushings, etc., were causing the vibration, and he said, "No--the vibration is caused by the worn tires. And, also when you brake at high speed, it vibrates, because the rotors are warped."

I had been having a problem with the passenger side window failing to retract when closing the door. Armaund told me that the window interlock is in the door handle, and he showed me how to close the door while releasing the door latch at the last moment. In other words, instead of just pushing the door shut, I need to pull up on the door handle when closing the door, and then the window retracts as it's supposed to. Then, when I release the door handle, the window pops up into fully closed position. Bingo!

 

Dean, double-check the tyre sizes. If the car is on 18" wheels, they're normally staggered and would take 245 up front and 255 for the rears.

Wear on the inside of the front tyres can be incorrect toe, but also due to failing upper shock mounts and 'slop' in the suspension generally, which your tech has noted. Best to work your way through these items as and when. I would defer on wheel alignment until all the issues have been attended to.

Add a transmission fluid / filter change to your list of 'stuff to do'. Jaguar/ZF insist on the liquid gold Lifeguard 6 fluid, but many on here are running the more realistically-priced Mercon SP with zero ill effects.

Try the window reset procedure. Member Gus explains it here:
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource.

 

michaelh, thanks for the tips. Yes, I understand that the original equipment front rims are 245, and the rear rims are 255. Strangely, the worn out tires currently on the car are four identical 245 R45 18 tires.

There very well could be some slop in my suspension. The mechanic showed me that the tie rod accordion-type grease boots have tears and are leaking grease. Also, the sway bar bushings are mangled, and are pulled out of their normal position somewhat.

I will go for the transmission fluid/filter change as you recommend.

I tried that door window reset technique. Unfortunately, it didn't solve the problem. I assume there is a door position switch that is an imput to the window controls. I'm guessing the door position switch is out of whack, so the door position isn't being sensed correctly, because the window does move slightly up and down when the door is moved. Unfortunately, it doesn't move down when the door is almost closed, as it's supposed to. It's not unusual for position switches used in many applications to get out of adjustment, or to become defective over time. Perhaps, not surprising in a 19-year old car?

 

With the tyre sizes, I think it's just that some tyre fitters don't know the car. Mine came shod with Kumho 245s all round, quickly replaced with the correct-sized Michelin Pilot Sports.

If your front ride height is down an inch, then the upper shock mounts are likely shot (the foam is crumbling in your pic. above) although almost anything and everything can contribute to this drop.

The tie rod bellows (JLM20683) is silly money from Jaguar, but I think RockAuto has them at a more planet-earth price.

When the window is working correctly, it should drop 1/2" or so when the door is opened, and not rise again until the door is closed. If it drops when the outside handle is lifted, that microswitch in the latch is working. Sounds more like a faulty 'door closed' microswitch, although I'd expect a 'door open' message in the message centre, and the puddle light to stay illuminated, in that case?

 

michaelh, I checked my wheels with a tape measure. The two wider rims are now on the front, and the two narrower rims on on the rear. Armand is going to install new tires on Monday 9/19., He says Michelin no longer makes the 255 (wider width) tire size specified by Jaguar for the rear wheels, but Continental still makes them. Once I get the tires and brakes fixed, then the car is safe to drive. And, I do plan to get the transmission fluid changed per your suggestion.

 

Mmm. PS4s were just my choice, but if you prefer Continentals, that's fine

Michelin still does list the 255:
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireS...SortCode=54200

 

michaelh, thanks for that. So, Michelin still makes them. I don't prefer Continentals, but I think Michelins, Pirellis and Continentals are all okay. All are highly-rated by "Consumer Reports" magazine.