2003 XKR brake bleeding questions
#1
#2
Definitely fit the new pads in first.
Never used a vacuum pump - my wife is well trained to follow 'press' and 'release' instructions!
#3
#4
No problem using a vacuum pump.
Replace the pads first. Normal recommendations are to open the bleeder of the caliper you are working on before compressing the piston. Doing so prevents pushing whatever detritus that may have collected in the caliper back into the system. Secondly, it will reduce the amount of brake fluid required to flush the system.
Not to be argumentative but recommended practices by all brake manufacturers and OEMs are to begin bleeding sequence at the wheel position farthest from the master cylinder. The only exceptions I can recall are oddball vehicles like old Volvos with split-system calipers. But even then they were somewhat based on the farthest away practice. Personally, I've never had issues starting at any position, I'm just passing on information.
Replace the pads first. Normal recommendations are to open the bleeder of the caliper you are working on before compressing the piston. Doing so prevents pushing whatever detritus that may have collected in the caliper back into the system. Secondly, it will reduce the amount of brake fluid required to flush the system.
Not to be argumentative but recommended practices by all brake manufacturers and OEMs are to begin bleeding sequence at the wheel position farthest from the master cylinder. The only exceptions I can recall are oddball vehicles like old Volvos with split-system calipers. But even then they were somewhat based on the farthest away practice. Personally, I've never had issues starting at any position, I'm just passing on information.
#5
My procedure is to replace the pads, then, using a pressure bleeder such as Motive Products, open each bleeder starting at the farthest from the master cylinder and work inwards to the closest last. I always use alternating color racing fluid from ATE (they have blue and gold) to ensure I get fresh fluid before closing the bleeder. The nice thing about a pressure bleeder is that it keeps from working the master piston over the ridge that can develop in the master cylinder bore. It also allows one person to bleed and refluid all the brakes in a few minutes. It will be one of the best tools you ever buy.
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Stamford (07-19-2013)
#6
#7
I stumbled to this thread because I am flushing my brake lines. The comment about the starting point a the furthest caliper is not what the instructions in the JTIS says. The JTIS instructs (for Brembo brakes) :
7. Following the procedure above, bleed the brakes in the order shown:
1. Left-Hand Front,
2. Right-Hand Front,
3. Left-Hand Rear,
4. Left-Hand Rear.
7. Following the procedure above, bleed the brakes in the order shown:
1. Left-Hand Front,
2. Right-Hand Front,
3. Left-Hand Rear,
4. Left-Hand Rear.
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#8
#9
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#11
Possibly if one started with the farthest wheel, that when the others were bleed, air might be introduced and require re-flushing all the way back. If air was introduced in the shorter runs it would be flushed through when the longest run was flushed. That does sound logical to me. On another note, why can we not use blue brake fluid in Florida? Is is a Republican issue?
#12
Not to be argumentative but recommended practices by all brake manufacturers and OEMs are to begin bleeding sequence at the wheel position farthest from the master cylinder. The only exceptions I can recall are oddball vehicles like old Volvos with split-system calipers. But even then they were somewhat based on the farthest away practice. Personally, I've never had issues starting at any position, I'm just passing on information.
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