Good afternoon from CA and thanks all for your contributions. Here's my situation:

1. 2003 XKR convertible with 85,000 miles, generally great shape. I do most of my own work that doesn't require a lift. I also continually add various design engineers to my wall of shame for idiotic components that make repairs so difficult and apologize to the neighbors for my language. Like replacing the serpentine belts on a supercharged engine.
2. Last week we had temps for a string of days >110. One evening, I went to start the car and, with no prior issues, cranked it but no joy.
3. I ran code checks and came up with a fuel pressure sensor fault. I also discovered that the hose that runs off the sensor was partially disconnected from a white plastic connector that linked a short hose off the sensor with a hose that ran from the back of the engine and I could see residue underneath it. I wondered if the high temp had built up pressure and caused the separation. I hoped that $1 worth of small hose clamps would do the trick but still no joy so I ordered and installed a new sensor.
4. No luck, so I took off the black plastic air flow housing that runs from the filter box to the throttle apparatus with the butterfly valve (sorry, I'm, not using the correct part names). I saw residue under the butterfly valve so I sprayed and cleaned it out. I also sprayed the MAP Sensor.
5. No luck. I ran the codes again and got a MAP fault, so I ordered and just installed that part.
6. Still cranks but sputters a little and won't catch.
7. I'm trying to avoid the tow and min $1,000 visit to the repair shop for what seems like could be an easy fix. Hopefully, it is not the fuel filter as that looks to be a bear to replace. I can hear the pump when I turn the key to the #2 position.
8. Any thoughts out there would be appreciated.

 

Did you check the Schrader valve on the fuel rail for pressure after the pump ran in #2 position? This should reveal fuel pressure or none. The Sensor on front of right rail is the Fuel pressure sensor and reads pressure relative to vacuum from the line you indicated. The Fuel Rail Temp Sensor is at right rear of that rail and look similar to the Water temp sensor. The fuel filter is no problem, just support the left rear and remove the wheel, then bend the heat shield to gain access to the filter. The bolt is either 8mm or 10mm that mounts the filter to car. There is a plastic button or clip that must be pressed to allow the filter to release from the lines. This button is not visible and must be located by feel. It is on the opposite side of the fuel line visible to you. Release the bottom and remove bottom line, get small container to catch the gas in the filter and unclip the top line, remove it. The new filter just slips in and locks into top and bottom lines. Reattach the filter to car and bend the heat shield back to original location. Your are finished with the filter change. You may have to cycle the key several time to get the fuel through the filter. Verify the noise is the fuel pump running and not another item.

 

Thanks for this, kstevusa. I'll investigate!

 

ksteusa,

1. My wife confirmed she heard the fuel pump in back
2. I checked the fuel pump fuse (#5 in the luggage compartment fuse box)
3. There does not seem to be a fuel pump relay for the 03 XKR, according to the relay diagram in the XK 2003 Electrical Guide, as there seems to be for the XK8, or at least older models, according to a thread I found. There is only a space in the luggage fuse box where the relay goes according to the other thread.
4. I checked the fuel pressure on the Schrader valve with my new brand new fuel pressure gauge. No joy, NADA, Zip, Zero.
5. Would there be any other reason for no pressure, with the pump appearing to be operating, beside bad filter or bad pump?
6. I'm going to tackle the fuel filter tomorrow and see what that gets me. I question whether a filter could go bad so quickly, but high heat could do strange things. The engine did sputter over a couple of days of trying to get it going, and then nothing. This morning it coughed once.

Anything I'm missing?
Thanks again for any advice

 

the fuel line can also be the issue. They can get plugged up or they can get pinched by some impact.

Its good practice to visually check the entire fuel line length and then blow thru it to check for obstructions.

Z

 

Thanks, Z. I can visually check it but blowing through it will be a chore. I assume I would need to send air through the end connecting to the top of the filter and disconnect the line somewhere in the engine compartment. Unfortunately, I don't have a compressor, here, but maybe I can jury rig some canned compressed air.

 

Alternatively, you can pour gasoline in the engine compartment end of the line and see if it flows out freely at the end that exits the fuel filter, ie with the filter disconnected, so that you are only testing the line portion for free flow. The gas has to come out of the low end as fast as it’s poured in at the top end. If it just dribbles out you have some type of obstruction.


Z

 

What is this? It is along the fuel line that goes into the fuel rail next to my Schrader valve. It's not shown in the shop manual diagram, not can I find it in any parts manual, or seller catalogue.

I replaced the filter after much cursing and blaspheming of the designers of this particular feature. They definitely go up on my wall of shame next to the ones who designed serpentine belt replacement for XKRs to be a near impossible feat without massive disassembly. Trying to reach a socket wrench into the area to loosen the 8mm nut and pinch the little white tab on the fuel line connectors required much patience, meditative breathing and second guessing on whether this was all worth it to avoid the inevitable $1500 visit, by tow truck, to the repair shop. Smaller hands would have been a help. I did ask my wife, who has smaller hands, to reconnect a plug to the fan assembly when I was replacing the belts, but know that if I asked her to crawl under the car I would go way past her threshold of tolerance for my DIY adventures, which I have tested too many times. Memories of parts spread across the dining room table and mist clouds of cleaning fluid drifting into her office, provoking storm clouds in return disabused me of that fantasy. I finally reached Zen and was able to get the old filter out, the new one in and the &*@#ing connectors back on. In the middle of this little adventure I had to do a zoom I had forgotten about with some high school students and was covered with grease and dirt that had fallen on me during my quality time under the car. Well, it was all for naught, as in zero fuel pressure. I'm about to take this little piece in the photo off the lines, and stare at it for awhile, hoping, maybe that there is a blockage that I can solve by poking around, or finding a replacement.

I'm still avoiding the step of taking out the fuel tank, which will require relearning my omm Zen chant from high school. I can still hear the fuel pump humming with my key in the #2 position, telling me, "Come on, you know you're tempted. You know you want to take me out and replace me for $600, just so you can brag on jaguarforums and Facebook that you did it, but you're afraid that it won't solve the problem, which is so simple, even you could eventually figure it out.'"

Any ideas? I visibly checked the line from the lower end of the filter to the engine, no breaks or leakage. Everything is clean. I could figure out how to send some gas down through the line from the engine, but that will require going back under the car, again. Kind of like going back down in the basement in a horror movie. I should have done that in the first place when I had the bloody thing disassembled but wasn't sure how I would do it from the engine end, thus demonstrating once again the common human behavior of avoidance, even when you know that the cost of a little pain up front is much less than not bearing that pain and suffering the consequences.

 

The pictured part appears to be the Main Line fuel pressure damper. Did you by any chance try to blow thru the old fuel filter to verify if it was clogged? The 2003 fwd. cars have a PWM controlled fuel pump and that module is located on the Right Rear of inner wheel hsg. near tank and lines. The pump motor is located in a canister that also includes a screen sock type filter . It usually does not clog. Maybe take the filter loose again, place line end into container and carefully turn key to activate pump and determine if fuel is reaching the filter. If not, either the PWM module or fuel pump is or has gone south. This should help locate area of problem.

 

Ommmmm....starting my calming chant.

1. kstevusa, thanks again for your quick response. I was afraid you were going to suggest that, which I realized last night would be my next move before attacking the fuel pump/tank, itself.
2. I'm still praying that the now identified fuel pressure damper might be the problem, so am going to take the bugger off and, I guess, blow through it
3. Yesterday, when I finally was able to disconnect the lower connector from the filter (first, although I found conflicting advice on which to connect first, and chose the lower one, since that was the only one I could disconnect, initially) gas poured out into my bucket, which indicated I was barking up the wrong tree with the filter theory. More gas flowed than I expected, certainly more than was in the filter, causing me to think I had somehow started a siphon from the tank, but that didn't make any sense. Gas flowed from the lower connector, too.
4. I just blew through it and there was no blockage.
5. I looked for info on the PWM in my shop manual and wiring guide and found nothing useful. Is it inside the luggage compartment, reachable, and testable and/or replaceable? I Can't find any diagram or pic that shows it.

I'm hoping that this will all be over soon and in a few years I'll be sitting with my future grandkids around the campfire, sounding like Dan Akyroyd, "There I was, an 8mm socket wrench in one hand and a new Purolator F65217 Fuel Filter in the other hand," as their eyes glaze over and they drift off to sleep.​​​​​​

 

Hi,
The fuel pump module is here:


It's not particularly easy to test other with an oscilloscope or by substitution.

May be easier to unplug it, and power the pump (briefly) directly from battery power to see if that produces a flow of fuel. The red and yellow/red wires on the connector pins 1 & 2 go to the pump.

 

Well, here's today's set of actions:

1. I eventually got the fuel pressure damper assembly off, first trying to get the instrument itself separated from the hoses, using every bit of grunting, groaning and swearing I could, leaning over the front fender of the car until I noticed little old ladies walking by on the sidewalk speed up when they saw and heard me. I concluded that the assembly wasn't made to be separated so I attacked the quick connect ends with my brand new disconnect tools. An hour later, I was finally able to get both quick connects free. They may be quick connects, but they are slow, painful disconnects. I blew through the hose....clear.
2. Then, I went under the car again(sound submarine dive klaxon)
3. I disconnected the lower fuel filter connector and watched gas drain into a bucket for 15 minutes. (battery was disconnected) That was the buildup from last night's attempt to start the car after I replaced the filter.
4. I connected the lower end of the fuel pressure damper assembly up front and then blew through the fuel rail end. I could feel gurgling and then was able to blow consistently.
5. I turned they key to the 2 position and fuel came through the bottom of the filter into my bucket. It wasn't a strong stream. I'm not sure how strong a flow should come through. (I feel like I'm talking to my urologist.) wasn't much more that the flow without the activation when I unplugged the lower connector.
6. I then reconnected the lower connector, with the help of the butt end of a hammer pushing up, until I heard the magic click.
7. I then put the fuel rail end of the damper assembly into a bucket and turned the key. There was a slight seepage at the outset but no flow. I'm now starting to think about the dreaded F P words.
8. Anything else I should try before I buy some cans to drain the fuel into?

 

Hi, honestly I only skimmed it, but the first action would have been to diagnose the fault with SDD or at least read the DTCs.

For safety reasons, the fuel pump(s) only run when the engine is turning. Before that, they are only triggered for 1-2 seconds when the ignition is switched on.
At the current status, i would first check the fuel pump(s) electrically, i.e. measure whether they are activated by the ECM when the starter turns. As a test, you can also supply the pump directly with battery power.

If the fuel pump is not activated, this can e.g. the inertia switch, the crankshaft or the camshaft sensor, there are many possible causes.

Fritz

 

Thanks, Fritz. In response,

1. This all started during a very bad heat spell, 110+ temps for a number of days, when I tried to start it one evening and it sputtered but wouldn't catch. I was hoping I could find that one problem that might have come out of whatever happens in such heat. I thought I had it when I saw the hose that is supposed to connect to the fuel pressure sensor partially apart.
2. Generally, I'm trying to run down each possible cause before conceding to a bad fuel pump.
3. I'm not familiar with SDD but did run DTC checks along the way and replaced the fuel pressure sensor and cleaned, and then replaced, the MAF sensor based on codes.
4. After those steps, it would sputter for awhile but then stop.
5. I checked the inertia switch. It was ok.
6. I then replaced the filter, with no effect.
7. I contemplated the possibility of the crankshaft and camshaft sensors. I need to investigate how to test them without necessarily just replacing them.
8. michaelh recommended running the fuel pump off the battery, as well, so I guess that's the next step.
9. In the meantime, I'm working on growing a third arm with more joints and a smaller hand to improve my reach in narrow spaces and also losing weight for a better fit.
10. I've been working on cars since using How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive in 1970 and added outboard engines, sometimes my Piper engine, all manner of appliances, etc. to my notches, particularly emboldened with the internet and Youtube. The wisdom and experience of members of this forum has helped immeasurably in keeping unscrupulous $150/hr shops at bay and I try to exhaust the forum dialogues already in place on each topic before crying for help, although finding relevant discussions on specific topics is a challenge.
11. Thanks, all.

 

Your diligence is to be applauded, but apparently need to proceed further. Based on the "No fuel Pressure at the Schrader valve" statement, apparently, its a fueling problem. The car will not operate w/o fuel, air and spark (simple statement). Tank has adequate fuel to test? Your statement regarding a small weak stream of fuel when key activated, key should be in "RUN": position and line should emit a brief strong stream of fuel for about 2 seconds. Key can be cycled repeatably to duplicate refilling the entire system. An interesting note regarding the filter change, only small amount of fuel should spill from the tank line and then stop or drip due to the design of the items in the canister. There is anti back flow to prevent fuel from returning to the tank and maintain the line full. The multiple times we changed the fuel filter, only a small bit ran out and flow stopped quickly. Possibly there is a defect in the pump (worn rotor or rotor loose on shaft) assembly allowing the constant flow from tank when disconnected from filter. Since the fuel line is not restricted from tank to fuel rail, weak fuel at Scharder valve, suggest you power pump from battery to activate and confirm a STRONG stream of fuel or R&R* Fuel pump. You will have eliminated probable other causes.
* remove and replace

 

When I replaced the fuel filter on my wife's 2006 XK8 at 90,000 miles (the car is now approaching 125,000 miles), only a small trickle of greyish-colored fuel dribbled out (Kelly meticulously explained the reason why in his post directly above). These factory 4.2 fuel pumps seem to be significantly more robust than the factory 4.0 fuel pumps were / are. There have been far more 4.0 fuel pump issues reported here on the forum than 4.2 issues, and the replacement 4.0 fuel pumps are far less expensive than the 4.2 fuel pump assemblies. Unfortunately, I believe you have suffered a fuel pump failure but I certainly hope I will be proven wrong....

 

Thanks to kstevusa and Jon89.

1. Yes, the continued trickle for a long time was not what any filter-changing thread talked about and suggested an issue upstream, which I didn't understand until kstevusa's description, just now.
2. I'm now researching the fuel tank-removal-versus cutting a hole for access from above debate.
3. What is perplexing is that all the tank removal videos are for the two line XK8 tanks and none for the one line XKR. They all bemoan the struggle of reaching the disconnect from under the car.
4. The 2003 XKR shop manual shows a small quick connect disconnect tool and a sketch for its application along a line, not up in the bowels of the rat's nest under the tank. The XKR limited description of the process seems to imply that the line is exposed from inside the luggage compartment.
5. I just explored the underside and saw that the line from the top of the filter disappears under a heat shield.
6. I took out the innards of the luggage compartment, including the shrouding covering the tank. As per the attached pics, the top of the tank is visible. There are three lines from the top of the pump. The two on the left seem to be part of vapor recovery from the pipe for refueling.
7. The hose from the green top and connector goes left along the top of the tank, connects to a vertical rubber hose as shown in the pic that says "Gas/Fuel" and connects to a connector at the bottom of the well and goes directly through the well. It seems to come out suspiciously, based on my use of the length of my arm, where the fuel hose from the top of the filter disappears underneath into the heat shroud.
8. Am I to conclude that that hose is the one that otherwise goes through the hull in the XK8 to a connector underneath that is a bear to disconnect, and all I need are hose clamps to disconnect, and then some good wrestling skills to horse the tank around inside the luggage compartment and then out through the back?
9. Assuming I conclude that the problem is my pump and I decide to take it out myself, any recommendations on vendors? It looks like all the pumps require attaching to the existing assembly on top and range from Jaguar costs at $800, down to Ebay at $400.
10. 
    Hose from green connector on top of tank.
    
    

 

Micahelh, what's the procedure to power the pump from the battery? Do I run two hot leads from the battery into pins 1 and 2 at the same time and no other connections?
I think I will disconnect the hose from the fuel rail in the engine compartment and see if I get a stream into a bucket. Thanks, Gil

 

The fuel line into the bottom of the tank cannot be seen looking up at the rear end. Slide forward a foot or so to be able to look at the left side over top of the rear-end.
What ever else you do, drill a small hole in the quick release and tie a string on it. When it falls there is a black hole just below the pipe. Use a long thin screwdriver to push the release into the spring of the release.
The tank as told by Gus is not that bad to get back into the trunk area, just some fiddly connectors up by the fill pipe and the hoses on top.
I found going in from the left area over the maze of brackets (laying head toward the front) the best way for me to get at the pipe to pull on it. Putting it back in place is also a struggle.
Let us know what you find on powering up the pump.

 

GilWS, Jay Jag Jay and I have pondered and corresponded on this expensive pump canister for a few years with small advancements due trials & research. To date we determined the old return type fuel pumps and new PWM are same. The PWM pumps only operate about 35% of time where as: the return pump operates 100% and fail sooner. Walbro* pumps are available and possibly Denso that are adaptable but due to the $100+ cost we have not purchased one to test our theory. From past experience with GM and Toyota canisters , the only difficulty would be dis assembly and re assembly of the canister after replacement. Generally there are three (3 types of motor pick ups) right side, left side or center type. Once this hurdle is overcome, then connecting the wiring and connector plus the hose from pump to tank center center housing is the remaining obstacle. This has been an on going process for several years. Hopefully we can source a core old pump canister to test our theory. We may not be as successful as Wayne and Baxtor (upper shock mounts), but dollar wise $800-1000 is kinda excessive for a fuel pump failure. Ford went to PWM ( non return) in the 1994 Mustang so we can surmise that pump is adequate for our 4.2L vs a 5.0L requirements. Anyone willing to provide a old failed core canister, we can help with reasonable S&H. Our number of cars (2003-2006) is smaller but the pump saving can be substantial.
* Walbro- Automotive Performance Engineering, TRE Performance are 2 suppliers, Denso & Bosch not searched.