2005 door panel help needed
#1
2005 door panel help needed
HI,
I pulled my left door panel (card) off with intentions of adjusting my window and fixing some clunking. The upper rear two stanchions that hold the door pins are totally missing. Does anyone have an approximate dimension of these pieces? I'd like to cobble a metal one together.
thanks in advance
wj
I pulled my left door panel (card) off with intentions of adjusting my window and fixing some clunking. The upper rear two stanchions that hold the door pins are totally missing. Does anyone have an approximate dimension of these pieces? I'd like to cobble a metal one together.
thanks in advance
wj
#2
Here's some threads on this topic. The first had a file for 3D printing the part.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-133754/page2/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-repair-95549/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-issue-159957/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...repair-158697/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-133754/page2/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-repair-95549/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-issue-159957/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...repair-158697/
The following users liked this post:
wymjym (09-18-2017)
#3
You could still buy them a year or so ago as I had a broken one and the dealer had them. Is it item 16 that is broken; https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/a...ng-and-armrest
#4
Thank you both for the information!
I already had the door apart and was not in the position of waiting for a replacement part to arrive, which led me to manufacture (cobble) my own solution.
With the information supplied within the above links I determined the height and then proceeded to trace the opening of one of the lower stanchions, transfer the drawing onto a piece of sheet metal and…after a bit of cutting and filing I had a workable metal piece! It is epoxied and screwed into the existing base of the upper stanchion and seems quite robust. I’ll be careful removing the door panel in the future which I hope means that issue is solved.
I had success in several areas:
I sprayed some ‘chain wax’ (a lubricant that thickens as it dries) onto the door check and worked it back and forth several times…the ‘clicking’ sound is gone.
I used the soft side of industrial Velcro to act as the rubbing surface of the upper glass stops, this worked out fine and the glass no longer has free play to move around but is not constrained in normal movement.
The window slider still had some of the nylon rubbing surface attached and I could not slide anything thicker than a .015 feeler gauge between the nylon and the window rail so…I found some old Mylar I had lying around, cut it longer than the slider. I added a small hole on either end for a zip tie to slide through and then fed the Mylar between the nylon and the window rail. This was enough to eliminate the rattle on this window. I then fed a zip tie through the holes and ‘zipped’ it together. The Rattle is gone.
I then adjusted the rear sealing surface angle and after a bit of trial and error (still not perfect) I put the door together.
The result is that with the top up and the windows shut I now can hear all the other little creaks and wind noises from the passenger side of the car, so I guess it was a successful endeavor and it also gives me some new areas to work on!
Shutting the door with the window down does not result in any rattles but it does not have a thud/thunk sound that I like to hear. I guess I could add some sound deadener but the lack of rattle makes me happy for now.
Thanks once again for the links and responses.
wj
I already had the door apart and was not in the position of waiting for a replacement part to arrive, which led me to manufacture (cobble) my own solution.
With the information supplied within the above links I determined the height and then proceeded to trace the opening of one of the lower stanchions, transfer the drawing onto a piece of sheet metal and…after a bit of cutting and filing I had a workable metal piece! It is epoxied and screwed into the existing base of the upper stanchion and seems quite robust. I’ll be careful removing the door panel in the future which I hope means that issue is solved.
I had success in several areas:
I sprayed some ‘chain wax’ (a lubricant that thickens as it dries) onto the door check and worked it back and forth several times…the ‘clicking’ sound is gone.
I used the soft side of industrial Velcro to act as the rubbing surface of the upper glass stops, this worked out fine and the glass no longer has free play to move around but is not constrained in normal movement.
The window slider still had some of the nylon rubbing surface attached and I could not slide anything thicker than a .015 feeler gauge between the nylon and the window rail so…I found some old Mylar I had lying around, cut it longer than the slider. I added a small hole on either end for a zip tie to slide through and then fed the Mylar between the nylon and the window rail. This was enough to eliminate the rattle on this window. I then fed a zip tie through the holes and ‘zipped’ it together. The Rattle is gone.
I then adjusted the rear sealing surface angle and after a bit of trial and error (still not perfect) I put the door together.
The result is that with the top up and the windows shut I now can hear all the other little creaks and wind noises from the passenger side of the car, so I guess it was a successful endeavor and it also gives me some new areas to work on!
Shutting the door with the window down does not result in any rattles but it does not have a thud/thunk sound that I like to hear. I guess I could add some sound deadener but the lack of rattle makes me happy for now.
Thanks once again for the links and responses.
wj