In the first picture: unsure of what this is, located on driver side rear suspension. Any information on what it is and it's purpose would be appreciated.
In the second picture: it is connected to the trunk on the passenger side, I'm unsure what it is. The rubber hose is rotted and breaking so any information on this would be appreciated.

 

Zach, the top photo is the level sensor for your headlights. It sends position info to the headlight so that the automatic adjusters know if the car is level. If it is disconnected, the headlights will drop to their lowest positions so you won't blind oncoming drivers.

The second photo looks to be part of the evap system for the fuel tank. If its cracked, you may eventually throw a code for emissions.

hope that helps.

 

extheaterkid, that is helpful thank you. I had noticed lights Adjustment was really low, just one of the cars issues I have yet to address. Nor was I sure of how to.

Do you know if the plastic connecting arm is something I can get separately?
So far there is no evap codes, the only code I am getting currently is p1000.

 

No, it's not, but - see this thread of giandanielxk8's:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post2262960

 

Looks like you want a wire brush and a good coat of wax underseal or is it a Vice Grip Garage car ??? Stop lights .Tail lights and headlights with a brake on one wheel and its legal in the US

 

Pistnbroke...Texas is dropping car inspections starting 2025...I can't image what will end up on the road ways
wj

 

Michaelh,

This is very helpful thank you.

 

Zach, I do part out cars occasionally as an offset for the cost of the hobby (also when I've gotten over my head on "trying to save them all"). I might have the sensor in my parts stash and can let you know if you need a replacement. In the meantime, the arm should just pop back on the ball end and start working again. If it won't stay, a ziptie will hold it on long enough for you to test the sensor and see if it's salvageable.

To test, put it back together, move the car to a level surface, wait until dark and then turn on your headlights manually, if you see them move around then it is getting data, if not then the sensor or its wiring are damaged. The movement is fairly slight so you may miss it the first time. Don't try to manually adjust the level of the lights until you have this working or you may throw the motor in the headlight assembly out of wack.

P1000 is just the code for Emissions Self Testing not being complete. Until you drive the car a certain distance and over some certain conditions, its showing that its not ready to report a Pass (code P1111). If you don't have a CEL lit then the evap system is ok for now.

 

extheaterkid,

​​​​​​Thank you very much, the sensor does work, there isn't a check light. I will for sure be replacing that hose before it starts causing any kind of issues.

I just took the car on a 2.5 hour drive in one direction, the code remains but still without a check light. It desperately needs a tune up from where it has set for such a long time, but I have found a couple of new codes during the journey. P0171 and P0174 both of witch will come on for short periods of time with the code for random multiple cylinder misfire. can't remember what the code was, just what my reader said it was, plus the warning of reduced performance. After a short period of time it all goes inactive and the car returns to normal.

 

The only reduced performance I have had has been water in the plug wells ..blow all out with compressed air

 

You might want to check for air leaks. Especially in the accordion hose that feeds the throttle body. While you're at it, clean up the MAFS sensor with some CRC MAF sensor spray stuff.

 

I will give that a go, is there a diagram for all of the vacuum lines and hoses that I could use to do a complete check?

 

Zach, great to hear that the headlights are working, those assemblies are fiddly, fragile and expensive.

As to the p1000 code, getting the car to show a "pass" can be difficult even with a long drive cycle. Certain conditions have to met and the computer looks for several variables. It may take a couple hundred miles of different driving to meet all of them and will be made harder if you are throwing "phantom" p0170-4 codes. There is a doc floating in the stickies that can walk you through how to hit all the parameters, others on the forum may more easily point you to it. If you don't have emissions testing where you are, its much less of an issue. If you do have testing then you will need the P1111 to pass. As the CEL isn't on currently, it gives you bandwidth to focus on any other drivability issues first.

If you have access to a smoke machine, it will make your possible vacuum leaks much easier to find. If not a can of carb cleaner sprayed carefully around the intake system while the car is idling can tell you roughly where issues are presenting. Thankfully there isn't a ton of vacuum hose under the hood and most of it is up top and accessible.

Piston's suggestion, checking coil packs and spark plug wells for oil or water are quick and easy ways to solve for errant misfires. Also, as the car has been sitting, confirming good battery voltage (with a meter and if needed, testing at an auto parts store) will help with the "gremlins".

 

After having driven the car a lot more since the last post was made. A lot of lack of power has become an issue, most of which was due to the car still having the original fuel filter and the fuel pump going out as a cause of that putting too much pressure on it. I have done a new set of ignition coils and plugs clean the map and replaced the air filter all of which seems to have helped the car but I'm still having a lot of hesitation/misfire in the mid-range of my throttle pedal if I slowly ease into the throttle even up to full throttle at that point I don't have any issues if I go straight to full throttle I don't normally tend to have any issues. That being said I know the throttle body needs cleaned it's got a lot of junk in there which is next on the to-do list any pointers or tips for that job would be greatly appreciated. But since replacing the fuel pump I have started getting misfire codes for all cylinders with multiple cylinder misfire code as well as p1313 p1314 and p1316 codes even after changing the fuel filter these codes are still coming but they do not stay lit the car will go into limp mode for roughly 30 seconds and then the check light will turn off the car will come out of limp mode and go right back to running great no noticeable missing at idle unless you're revenant and like I said you've got some hesitation / missing at mid-range of the pedal. Any other ideas that anyone may think could be causing this I'll be all ears hopefully the throttle body is vast majority of the problem. I will be cutting the fuel filter apart and posting pics soon.