2005 XK8 No Start
#1
2005 XK8 No Start
Hello all, it's been a while since my last post. I purchased a 2005 Xk8 4.2 from a donation auction. With that said it does not start surprise surprise!!!
The battery is freshly charged and reset, she will crank almost start. The intake is flooded with fuel I tried with the petal to the floor till it kicks then back off half way nothing. Pulled all plugs and replaced. checked all fuses, grounds fuel pump come on cleaned up excess fuel from intake and repeat the same steps 3 times now. I get the same results intake puddles up with fuel no start. What would be the next logical step without just replacing parts?
I thinking I could have a stuck/leaking injector. Also I only received the valet (green key) w/chip Its out of valet mode and should start right......:
2005 XK8
Thanks in advance
Rob:
The battery is freshly charged and reset, she will crank almost start. The intake is flooded with fuel I tried with the petal to the floor till it kicks then back off half way nothing. Pulled all plugs and replaced. checked all fuses, grounds fuel pump come on cleaned up excess fuel from intake and repeat the same steps 3 times now. I get the same results intake puddles up with fuel no start. What would be the next logical step without just replacing parts?
I thinking I could have a stuck/leaking injector. Also I only received the valet (green key) w/chip Its out of valet mode and should start right......:
2005 XK8
Thanks in advance
Rob:
Last edited by robertcp2; 07-25-2018 at 01:05 PM. Reason: Add information. Cleared only code P0328 knock sensor
#4
You need three things for the car to start fuel, spark and compression. You say you have fuel I would check for spark this is how I checked my car.
Link
This is another link for things to check for a no start condition.
Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Link
This is another link for things to check for a no start condition.
Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
The following users liked this post:
robertcp2 (07-25-2018)
#5
Just a thought. Have you tried ALL your keys? It could be the immobilizer not recognizing the key?
As stated before too. Check the earth. Not just at the battery but under the car too. I had exactly this problem a while ago. Everything worked but it would not start. Turned out to be a bad earth under the car. Will see if I can find you a link.
This is my saga https://www.jaguarforum.com/showthre...=1#post1064920 if you keep reading you will see I found the solution. (post #3352)
As stated before too. Check the earth. Not just at the battery but under the car too. I had exactly this problem a while ago. Everything worked but it would not start. Turned out to be a bad earth under the car. Will see if I can find you a link.
This is my saga https://www.jaguarforum.com/showthre...=1#post1064920 if you keep reading you will see I found the solution. (post #3352)
Last edited by frankc; 07-25-2018 at 05:17 PM.
The following users liked this post:
robertcp2 (07-25-2018)
#6
The following users liked this post:
robertcp2 (07-25-2018)
#7
Trending Topics
The following users liked this post:
robertcp2 (07-26-2018)
#9
The following users liked this post:
robertcp2 (07-26-2018)
#10
Has the car been sitting a LONG time? Maybe the gas has expired.
Also, check the battery voltage at rest (should be well over 12V). Be very suspicious if the battery has been sitting/dead for a while. Issue is that when you crank (high current), if the voltage drops too much, the computers cannot run. So check the voltage as you crank. Parts store can typically load-test batteries for free.
Fuel pressure is available over OBDII on these cars. A cheap ELM327 (eBay, Amazon) can read it.
Also check for air leaks, like under the big intake tube (accordion area in particular) or around the cylinder heads (these corrugated Norma tubes can crack) and throttle body. The better procedure is to do a smoke test.
Last, you might want to do a bit of research on the immobilizer. If somehow the car thinks the key is not properly recognized, the car will not start, but I am not sure of the specifics (does it prevent the starter from operating, or is it the injection of fuel, or ignition?). Maybe wrap the plastic head of the key in aluminum foil to temporarily defeat the crypto chip and try again to see if anything is different. Unfortunately, if the key is not recognized, the car tells you with a proprietary code, outside of OBDII, so a JLR code reader is required. The scenario is someone adding a standard key at some point, but forgetting to update the green key. The green key is now no longer paired with the car for the immobilizer (but still mechanically functional). If you research on this site, someone posted a green key besides a standard key, and pointed out that the green key can be made fully functional with a bit of filing (the tip of the green key is a bit longer).
Best of luck, keep us posted.
Also, check the battery voltage at rest (should be well over 12V). Be very suspicious if the battery has been sitting/dead for a while. Issue is that when you crank (high current), if the voltage drops too much, the computers cannot run. So check the voltage as you crank. Parts store can typically load-test batteries for free.
Fuel pressure is available over OBDII on these cars. A cheap ELM327 (eBay, Amazon) can read it.
Also check for air leaks, like under the big intake tube (accordion area in particular) or around the cylinder heads (these corrugated Norma tubes can crack) and throttle body. The better procedure is to do a smoke test.
Last, you might want to do a bit of research on the immobilizer. If somehow the car thinks the key is not properly recognized, the car will not start, but I am not sure of the specifics (does it prevent the starter from operating, or is it the injection of fuel, or ignition?). Maybe wrap the plastic head of the key in aluminum foil to temporarily defeat the crypto chip and try again to see if anything is different. Unfortunately, if the key is not recognized, the car tells you with a proprietary code, outside of OBDII, so a JLR code reader is required. The scenario is someone adding a standard key at some point, but forgetting to update the green key. The green key is now no longer paired with the car for the immobilizer (but still mechanically functional). If you research on this site, someone posted a green key besides a standard key, and pointed out that the green key can be made fully functional with a bit of filing (the tip of the green key is a bit longer).
Best of luck, keep us posted.
The following users liked this post:
robertcp2 (07-26-2018)
#11
Ok, It finally started this morning. I checked for spark, soaked up all the fuel in the intake through the throttle body and sprayed a small amount of starting fluid in the intake boot. I held the gas peddle to the floor after about 5 seconds it started rough, ran it for about 20 minutes miss firing and lots of black smoke....
The following codes are P0300 Misfire, P1316?, P0191 Fuel rail, P0328 bank 1 of 1, along with restricted performance (knock sensor). I don't know how long the car was sitting before I bought it.
The Battery is good 12.62 volts over night all grounds checked and tightened.... I guess I will need to verify all coil packs are good put some fresh fuel in eventually a knock sensor, repair ABS module warning light on, also air bag light on?
Does anyone recommend a good starting point to determine the cause of the misfiring.
Frankc, I don't understand about the heated windscreen It has a rear window defroster...
Thanks for your advise
Rob
The following codes are P0300 Misfire, P1316?, P0191 Fuel rail, P0328 bank 1 of 1, along with restricted performance (knock sensor). I don't know how long the car was sitting before I bought it.
The Battery is good 12.62 volts over night all grounds checked and tightened.... I guess I will need to verify all coil packs are good put some fresh fuel in eventually a knock sensor, repair ABS module warning light on, also air bag light on?
Does anyone recommend a good starting point to determine the cause of the misfiring.
Frankc, I don't understand about the heated windscreen It has a rear window defroster...
Thanks for your advise
Rob
Last edited by robertcp2; 07-26-2018 at 10:23 AM. Reason: typo
#12
I would start with the fuel pressure sensor, end of the fuel rail, passenger side (That P0191). You have to remove the plastic cover to see it. Double check the electrical connector as well as the vacuum line. They run a bit over $50, so consider replacing it. 10 min job.
Replace the fuel filter for sure (forward in the driver side rear wheel well). Get the filter that comes up for the S-Type 4.2 L because the XK8 4.2L is incorrect at most parts store for some reason. You need the filter with the quick-connect, not the hose/barbs.
Definitely do fresh gas, even injector cleaner. These 4.2L return-less fuel pumps are PRICEY ($500+), with no immediate after-market option that I know of. Be nice to it or else.
Resist the urge to do the starting fluid trick because the intake runners are plastic and do not do well with these "explosions".
Also, double check you oil for any gas smell. If you have that much gas in the cylinders, some of it may have made it past the rings and contaminate the oil. Likely not a good thing.
From memory, the last series of posts that detailed runaway injection of fuel ended up being diagnosed as major damage to the wiring harness, likely from a rodent in a car sitting too long. You might want to take an aggressive look at that.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
PS: Consider throwing a new air flow meter (Denso 197-6030), maybe $25. Right by the air box, 10 min job.
Replace the fuel filter for sure (forward in the driver side rear wheel well). Get the filter that comes up for the S-Type 4.2 L because the XK8 4.2L is incorrect at most parts store for some reason. You need the filter with the quick-connect, not the hose/barbs.
Definitely do fresh gas, even injector cleaner. These 4.2L return-less fuel pumps are PRICEY ($500+), with no immediate after-market option that I know of. Be nice to it or else.
Resist the urge to do the starting fluid trick because the intake runners are plastic and do not do well with these "explosions".
Also, double check you oil for any gas smell. If you have that much gas in the cylinders, some of it may have made it past the rings and contaminate the oil. Likely not a good thing.
From memory, the last series of posts that detailed runaway injection of fuel ended up being diagnosed as major damage to the wiring harness, likely from a rodent in a car sitting too long. You might want to take an aggressive look at that.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
PS: Consider throwing a new air flow meter (Denso 197-6030), maybe $25. Right by the air box, 10 min job.
Last edited by fmertz; 07-26-2018 at 11:04 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by fmertz:
Robert Grisar (07-26-2018),
robertcp2 (07-26-2018)
#14
Under the hood/bonnet on the right side is a black oblong box. The top of the box is just held on by a couple of screws. If you remove the top you will see, depending on if you have front windscreen heaters or not, 1 or 3 or 4 brown relays. All the same. One of those is the relay for the starter system. If its knackered then the car will not start. However if you have those extra relays for the front windscreen/shield heater you can swap the starter relay with a heater relay and that should cure the problem. You obviously will not have a heated windscreen but who uses that anyway?
Hope that clarifies the odd question.
Last edited by frankc; 07-27-2018 at 04:27 AM.
#15
#16
#17
2005 XK8 No Start
Ok I finally got the Jag running today. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator, as fmertz suggested also fresh fuel and plugs. Only thing left for now is restricted performance P0138 (knock sensor) bank 1 and air bag light? not sure on that one. and of course ABS light, which I fixed on my 2000 by removing the control module and re soldering the cold solder joints. I have no scanner for the air bags, so any advise would be appreciated..
Thank you all
Rob
Thank you all
Rob
#19
Under the drivers seat is a yellow connector/s. Try Jiggling/moving that. Do not unplug though without disconnecting the battery and leaving it for a while to discharge. The yellow connectors tend to be the airbags connections.
I had the airbag problem twice. Once it turned out to be a connection inside the rear of the seat. The next time was the connector I mentioned above.
I had the airbag problem twice. Once it turned out to be a connection inside the rear of the seat. The next time was the connector I mentioned above.
The following 2 users liked this post by frankc:
robertcp2 (08-02-2018),
Truck Graphics (08-02-2018)