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Folks, I have wind noise from my (LHD) driver’s window to quarter window seal. There’s at least a 1mm gap. No noise from passenger side, so that’s my reference point. I’ve found old threads and videos that show the adjustment behind the puddle lamp to pivot the top of the window in/out, but I don’t think that’s my issue. It’s basically parallel with the quarter window, in that the gap is consistent. Heeling/toeing that adjuster will take it out of parallel, but not close the gap.
I think either the entire window needs to be displaced rearwards by 2mm or so, or the quarter window needs to come forward 2mm or so. Or 1mm each. Is there an adjustment to move the driver window rearwards? Or even inwards, but evenly top & bottom? Top photo is the gap, seen at the bottom of the window (sorry about the rotation, what a pain forum software can be).
Second photo is the degree of overlap of the seal on the driver’s window. Third photo is the overlap of the passenger window, 2mm or so more.
So I guess my ultimate question is “how do I get the driver’s side to be like the passenger’s side?” I’m aware that adjusting the rears is going to involve having the rear seats and top deck out, so that’s probably out of the question for now. If that’s what it’s going to take, then I’ll do it in the Spring. Is there a tried and tested stop-gap to seal that gap until the Spring? I thought of something like velvet tape, but it’s a bit clunky.
Having played a bit more with this, it’s becoming clear that the quarter window is the culprit more than the door window. I know the regulators have been replaced, so it’s possible that they weren’t properly aligned when the job was done.
How much of a ball-ache is it to get the seats and quarter panel out to get to the adjustment points? An hour? Half a day? I was planning on waiting for warmer weather, but if it’s a couple-hour job then I might as well just get on with it.
I'm also very much interested in this thread. Both of my quarter windows have a small opening like the OP mentioned.
I'm more concerned about water damages, than the wind noise.
This helped me a lot. Looks like its only for front windows but wth you may find usefull.
Note: while adjusting i found a piece of loose-leaf paper helpful. Close it in the vertical window edge. Tug to guage "closeness" and alignment adjustments.
The documents for the front and rear window adjustment are typical Jaguar-ese, in that they say something like "lateral adjustment", but that's dependent upon one's viewpoint. Lateral could be front/back if you're looking at the car from the side. If you've got the door open and looking along the length of it, lateral would be in/out. So although they were descriptive, they need a bit of hands-on to interpret them. Anyway, I was fairly convinced that the rear window was the issue, because I knew the regulators had been replaced. So I bit the bullet and had the seats and side panel, stiffening bar and speaker out. Only to find that the adjuster was on the limit of its travel to move the window in/out.
So back to the door, and I had the door card off. Didn't really want to do that, the clips on the back are fragile/brittle, but that's where I found my answer. I was able to move the entire window toward the back of the car, while still sealed at the front by 1/8" or so, and the entire window inward toward the inside of the car by 1/32 or so.That seems to have done the trick.
For anyone reading this in future, here's some annotated photos. ***Points to note*** - it is FAR less effort to remove the door card than to gain access to the rear window adjusters. My advice would be to try everything you can on the front window before resigning yourself to having the back of the car out. In my case I did it, and it wasn't necessary.