2nd tensions DIY instruction "HOW TO"
#121
Well that is a relief, I thought for sure some thing was broke, but yes , I did turn it counter clock wise, and clock wise, but either way , it did the same thing. also wanted to point out that the triangular shape that you look for on the front of the fly wheel, to find top dead center is like an 1/8th of an inch in diameter, and no where near the size that is in the pdf file. If I did not have a magnifying glass,I would have never seen the triangle on the flywheel. also took the plug out of number one and actually saw the top of the piston come all the way up to the top. then looked for the triangular shape on the flywheel. you guys are worth a million bucks with information, and I really appriciate your time and knowledge, without this forum I would be very frustrated.
#122
A quick question to add to the thread on something I don't fully understand:
I believe I understand for the cams to have the least pressure on the valves, the "flat" spots at the front should be parallel to the head. Correct? If so, does it matter if they are parallel at the top or can they be parallel at the bottom?
And what is the best way to move: blip the starter (with fuel fuse pulled) or turn the crank pulley nut?
B
I believe I understand for the cams to have the least pressure on the valves, the "flat" spots at the front should be parallel to the head. Correct? If so, does it matter if they are parallel at the top or can they be parallel at the bottom?
And what is the best way to move: blip the starter (with fuel fuse pulled) or turn the crank pulley nut?
B
#123
I really can't answer about the flats being OK at the bottom. But you should have them at the top so you can lock the cams in place if you disconnect the chains. The loads on the cams from the valves may cause the cams to rotate slightly. The result may be having the cam one or two teeth off when the chain is reinstalled since the cam isn't locked and you can't see the flats readily. But, if you only replace the upper tensioners the zip tie method keeps the correct cam alignment even with the exhaust lifted to allow the tensioner room to be installed.
#124
If you want pictures along with solutions to some problem areas using the zip tie method of replacing the secondary tensioners the following link should be a big help.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ics-faq-52653/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ics-faq-52653/
#125
#126
#127
The flats only need to be aligned on top to reset the timing correctly, if you are doing the zip tie method that is not an issue.
What you do want is to have the cam positioned so it has the least spring tension on it to avoid stress as you remove the bearing caps.
There are some pics somwhere of a broken cam, so it's worth taking care.
What you do want is to have the cam positioned so it has the least spring tension on it to avoid stress as you remove the bearing caps.
There are some pics somwhere of a broken cam, so it's worth taking care.
#128
When I did the tensioners with the zip tie method as shown in the pictures I didn't worry about the exact alignment of the cams. Lifting the exhaust cam was not a problem in the least. I very carefully loosened each bolt in rotation only about a quarter of a turn each time until the bolts had not load, then removed them, removed the caps and then lifted the cam. Remenber to put one cam cap bolt back in toward the rear and below the cam so the cam will not fall and twist the chain.
#129
Jaguar XK8 1997 Gaskets for 2nd tensioners
The Jaguar 4.0L and the Lincoln LS 3.9L and the Thunderbird 3.9L engines were effectively the same engines up until '03. Parts for the Lincoln and Thunderbird are significantly less and come in FoMoCo boxes that say 'Jag' on them. FelPro has gaskets for the LS/Thunderbird for a third of any Jaguar source.
Search 'Lincoln LS' for a list of parts numbers.
Search 'Lincoln LS' for a list of parts numbers.
Please confirm & do you have a FelPro part number ?
#130
#131
The FelPro gasket set won't fit your engine - it will only fit the later engine with the VVT solenoids in the top of the valve covers.
#132
From Jim Burke Jaguar Service ln Birmingham , Alabama
ESTIMATE ON SECONDARY TIMING CHAIN TENSIONERS WITH NECSSARY BOLTS AND SEALS $1122.07
I believe I will do this project myself - I found Tensioners and 4 bolts for under $120 - online Ford
I need info on the gaskets and seals needed for AJ26 engine in 1997 Jaguar XK8
ESTIMATE ON SECONDARY TIMING CHAIN TENSIONERS WITH NECSSARY BOLTS AND SEALS $1122.07
I believe I will do this project myself - I found Tensioners and 4 bolts for under $120 - online Ford
I need info on the gaskets and seals needed for AJ26 engine in 1997 Jaguar XK8
#133
#134
Thanks to everyone for all the pointers. I've never been inside a car before but decided I should. The Jag dealer wanted $2100 to do something that sounded fairly straightforward. I have done the right side successfully and after a short break will do the left. It's not hard to understand why mechanics get such high fees for service, but this didn't seem like anything that patience, the right tools, good documentation and a great coach couldn't conquer. I did it all myself - except for a couple of bolts I couldn't break loose - and I didn't even break a nail!
#135
Hi,
If you use the zip tie method, check the timing by checking the cam flats are parallel. if they are not the zip tie method is not suitable. if the timming is perfect then the zip tie method is fine.
the easiest and safest method to remove camshaft is to simply rotate the camshaft clockwise until a point exists when all the valves are closed. you then zip tie the chain, then undo the cams and very simply the camshaft will lift up. no pressure, no having to force it back in place.
the zip tie method is only suitable for an engine that has timing correct. if it is, then the method above will ensure you wont end up with a broken camshaft.
thanks
Stephen
If you use the zip tie method, check the timing by checking the cam flats are parallel. if they are not the zip tie method is not suitable. if the timming is perfect then the zip tie method is fine.
the easiest and safest method to remove camshaft is to simply rotate the camshaft clockwise until a point exists when all the valves are closed. you then zip tie the chain, then undo the cams and very simply the camshaft will lift up. no pressure, no having to force it back in place.
the zip tie method is only suitable for an engine that has timing correct. if it is, then the method above will ensure you wont end up with a broken camshaft.
thanks
Stephen
#136
one thing can be deceiving are the tensioner bolts. The ones bought from Ford were a little too long. Run them in first and check for length, slop, clearance. I had to machine down the threaded ends to the correct length. If you do any lathe work on the bolts, be careful. They are tough as hell. Toughter than grade 8. They can chew up a tungsten carbide tool if you cut to hard or fast.
#137
#138
#139
Hi,
ive not read the whole thread, but if one side is out, this could mean a chain is stretched.
Did the tensioner on that side have its shoes still attached,
Really you need the cam flats on both sides in nr perfect alignment to use the zip tie method.
If it is out on one side, you need to identify why, it usually is because of a jumped chain or stretched chain.
In my opinion you will need to reset the timing by using the cam locking tools and the flywheel locking tool. I would check very carefully the chain.
Steveeasy
ive not read the whole thread, but if one side is out, this could mean a chain is stretched.
Did the tensioner on that side have its shoes still attached,
Really you need the cam flats on both sides in nr perfect alignment to use the zip tie method.
If it is out on one side, you need to identify why, it usually is because of a jumped chain or stretched chain.
In my opinion you will need to reset the timing by using the cam locking tools and the flywheel locking tool. I would check very carefully the chain.
Steveeasy
#140
Somewhere in this long thread the following comments have probably already been made but it is late and I have already eaten a couple olives.
Under inspection with cam flats aligned best they can be by manually turning the crankshaft clockwise:
With correctly aligned cams on the the right side the flats are tilted to the center but very close to parallel. You will know if it is a tooth off.
On the left side the flats will be very close to parallel and again it is obvious if the timing is a tooth or more off.
Under inspection with cam flats aligned best they can be by manually turning the crankshaft clockwise:
With correctly aligned cams on the the right side the flats are tilted to the center but very close to parallel. You will know if it is a tooth off.
On the left side the flats will be very close to parallel and again it is obvious if the timing is a tooth or more off.