Well that is a relief, I thought for sure some thing was broke, but yes , I did turn it counter clock wise, and clock wise, but either way , it did the same thing. also wanted to point out that the triangular shape that you look for on the front of the fly wheel, to find top dead center is like an 1/8th of an inch in diameter, and no where near the size that is in the pdf file. If I did not have a magnifying glass,I would have never seen the triangle on the flywheel. also took the plug out of number one and actually saw the top of the piston come all the way up to the top. then looked for the triangular shape on the flywheel. you guys are worth a million bucks with information, and I really appriciate your time and knowledge, without this forum I would be very frustrated.

 

A quick question to add to the thread on something I don't fully understand:

I believe I understand for the cams to have the least pressure on the valves, the "flat" spots at the front should be parallel to the head. Correct? If so, does it matter if they are parallel at the top or can they be parallel at the bottom?

And what is the best way to move: blip the starter (with fuel fuse pulled) or turn the crank pulley nut?

B

 

I really can't answer about the flats being OK at the bottom. But you should have them at the top so you can lock the cams in place if you disconnect the chains. The loads on the cams from the valves may cause the cams to rotate slightly. The result may be having the cam one or two teeth off when the chain is reinstalled since the cam isn't locked and you can't see the flats readily. But, if you only replace the upper tensioners the zip tie method keeps the correct cam alignment even with the exhaust lifted to allow the tensioner room to be installed.

 

If you want pictures along with solutions to some problem areas using the zip tie method of replacing the secondary tensioners the following link should be a big help.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ics-faq-52653/

 

I forgot to mention that I plan on doing the zip tie method.

None of the pics in that link have the flat spots perfectly on top.

I was just trying to figure out if the loads on the cams are minimal when the flat spots are on top, parallel to the block?

B

 

I do not recall the position of the flats relative to when none of the valves are depressed, but it is not too hard to see when there is minimum pressure on all the valves as you rotate the cam.

Use the crank bolt for rotation, it is much more precise.

 

The flats only need to be aligned on top to reset the timing correctly, if you are doing the zip tie method that is not an issue.
What you do want is to have the cam positioned so it has the least spring tension on it to avoid stress as you remove the bearing caps.
There are some pics somwhere of a broken cam, so it's worth taking care.

 

When I did the tensioners with the zip tie method as shown in the pictures I didn't worry about the exact alignment of the cams. Lifting the exhaust cam was not a problem in the least. I very carefully loosened each bolt in rotation only about a quarter of a turn each time until the bolts had not load, then removed them, removed the caps and then lifted the cam. Remenber to put one cam cap bolt back in toward the rear and below the cam so the cam will not fall and twist the chain.

 

Will the FelPro Gaskets for the LS/Thunderbird fit my 1997 Jaguar XK8 ?
Please confirm & do you have a FelPro part number ?

 

No, The FelPro Gaskets fit the AJ27 Engine. The 1997 XK8 uses a AJ26 Engine.

 

The FelPro gasket set won't fit your engine - it will only fit the later engine with the VVT solenoids in the top of the valve covers.

 

From Jim Burke Jaguar Service ln Birmingham , Alabama

ESTIMATE ON SECONDARY TIMING CHAIN TENSIONERS WITH NECSSARY BOLTS AND SEALS $1122.07

I believe I will do this project myself - I found Tensioners and 4 bolts for under $120 - online Ford
I need info on the gaskets and seals needed for AJ26 engine in 1997 Jaguar XK8

 

The valve cover gasket/ seal set is a Jaguar part. You can shop online parts suppliers or your local jag dealer. I bought mine from britishparts.com, part#NCA2515/2516AE.
RJ________________
97XK8 86Kmi

 

Thanks to everyone for all the pointers. I've never been inside a car before but decided I should. The Jag dealer wanted $2100 to do something that sounded fairly straightforward. I have done the right side successfully and after a short break will do the left. It's not hard to understand why mechanics get such high fees for service, but this didn't seem like anything that patience, the right tools, good documentation and a great coach couldn't conquer. I did it all myself - except for a couple of bolts I couldn't break loose - and I didn't even break a nail!

 

Hi,
If you use the zip tie method, check the timing by checking the cam flats are parallel. if they are not the zip tie method is not suitable. if the timming is perfect then the zip tie method is fine.

the easiest and safest method to remove camshaft is to simply rotate the camshaft clockwise until a point exists when all the valves are closed. you then zip tie the chain, then undo the cams and very simply the camshaft will lift up. no pressure, no having to force it back in place.

the zip tie method is only suitable for an engine that has timing correct. if it is, then the method above will ensure you wont end up with a broken camshaft.



thanks

Stephen

 

one thing can be deceiving are the tensioner bolts. The ones bought from Ford were a little too long. Run them in first and check for length, slop, clearance. I had to machine down the threaded ends to the correct length. If you do any lathe work on the bolts, be careful. They are tough as hell. Toughter than grade 8. They can chew up a tungsten carbide tool if you cut to hard or fast.

 

What part# were they? I used W500301S300 and they were fine. I helped a friend and we reused the old ones after cutting them with a hack saw and cleaning the ends with a bench grinder.
RJ____________
97 XK8 86K mi

 

I am in the process of changing my tensioners, I changed the LH first and checked for cam flat alighnment and found it OK. but when I checked the RH side I found them to be somewhat out of alighnment. could this be caused by the variable intake timing or should I re align the ex cam?

 

Hi,
ive not read the whole thread, but if one side is out, this could mean a chain is stretched.
Did the tensioner on that side have its shoes still attached,

Really you need the cam flats on both sides in nr perfect alignment to use the zip tie method.

If it is out on one side, you need to identify why, it usually is because of a jumped chain or stretched chain.

In my opinion you will need to reset the timing by using the cam locking tools and the flywheel locking tool. I would check very carefully the chain.

Steveeasy

 

Somewhere in this long thread the following comments have probably already been made but it is late and I have already eaten a couple olives.

Under inspection with cam flats aligned best they can be by manually turning the crankshaft clockwise:

With correctly aligned cams on the the right side the flats are tilted to the center but very close to parallel. You will know if it is a tooth off.

On the left side the flats will be very close to parallel and again it is obvious if the timing is a tooth or more off.