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I can remove the valve stem springs with a specific tool available for purchase. However, I'm struggling to understand how to detach and reattach the chain on the camshafts without having to remove the timing cover. I do possess the manual.
The thought of disassembling the heads is daunting because it means I have to take off the throttle and supercharger once more, possibly needing to replace the new gaskets again.
Thanks
That's a tool that I've never used or even seen before but if it works then all good. I guess that you can check the play in the valve stems from above as well by jiggling the top of the stem rather than the valve head once the seal is removed.
Unbolting the camshafts without removing timing cover such that you can move the camshaft aside to gain access to the buckets and shims was possible on my 4.0 engine. You need to fix the chain to the sprocket with a cable tie or two to ensure that you do not lose the valve timing alignment. You can retract and re-pin the chain tensioners or unbolt them to ensure enough slack in the chain to enable the camshaft with the sprocket still attached to be moved to one side or the other.
I do not know whether the 4.2 engine is different in this regard or whether moving the camshaft aside whilst it is still attached to the sprocket and chain will give sufficient clearance for the springs to be removed with the special tool. Perhaps the VVT mechanism on the 4.2 causes clearance problems?
but the OP does. isn’t your post below in reference to his possible engine disassembly ?
Are you serious?
The OP will know whether he has VVT or not and will know whether that is a potential disassembly problem or not.
I've made it absolutely clear that I don't have experience with that engine which is why I used "Perhaps" in my attempt to assist the OP with his problem. I'm doing my best here but I apologise if I'm falling short of the required standard. 🙄
The 4.2 supercahrged engine does not have VVT. Just to make sure you can check the cam covers at the front end you should see a sculpted area where the sensors would be for the VVT engines on the naturally aspirated engines.
Sorry for delay, the 2003 XKR does not have VVT. Finally the Berryman B12 arrived. I order a borescope to try and see if the oil seep will show via valves prior to doing the piston soak procedure. Should arrive in a few days.
I received the borescope, but unfortunately, it didn't provide a clear view of the issue. I'm now looking to purchase the attached tool for replacing the valve stem seals directly on the head.
I'm currently facing a dilemma with choosing the right brand for my XKR on Amazon. The only option available is DNJ (model VSS4162), but I'm unsure about its quality.
Through my research, I discovered that Fel-Pro offers seals (model SS72922) that are interchangeable with the OEM numbers from Mahle brand for the X100 series, and I'd much prefer using Fel-Pro if possible. Although Amazon and Fel-Pro dont show this as compatible.
I received the borescope, but unfortunately, it didn't provide a clear view of the issue. I'm now looking to purchase the attached tool for replacing the valve stem seals directly on the head.
I'm currently facing a dilemma with choosing the right brand for my XKR on Amazon. The only option available is DNJ (model VSS4162), but I'm unsure about its quality.
Through my research, I discovered that Fel-Pro offers seals (model SS72922) that are interchangeable with the OEM numbers from Mahle brand for the X100 series, and I'd much prefer using Fel-Pro if possible. Although Amazon and Fel-Pro dont show this as compatible.
I can't comment on the best seals to use as I'd probably use the OEM Jaguar ones.
I will be interested to hear how you find the in-situ valve spring removal process. Even with the cylinder pressurised, I can envisage that refitting the collets will be a tricky process.
On vintage cars, admittedly maybe not informative, we would routinely change valve springs by stuffing a small diameter rope down the open spark plug hole while the piston was at full bottom dead center. Then turn the crankshaft bolt until the rope was compressed up against the combustion chamber.
At that point there’s no danger of the valve(s) moving at all. The valve springs or the valve stem seals, can be be removed, changed, or whatever.
That way you don’t need pressurized air or anything complicated like that
On vintage cars, admittedly maybe not informative, we would routinely change valve springs by stuffing a small diameter rope down the open spark plug hole while the piston was at full bottom dead center. Then turn the crankshaft bolt until the rope was compressed up against the combustion chamber.
At that point there’s no danger of the valve(s) moving at all. The valve springs or the valve stem seals, can be be removed, changed, or whatever.
That way you don’t need pressurized air or anything complicated like that
I'm familiar with that process and have used a similar mechanical process to hold open the valves from inside the cylinder in order to remove the shims from the bucket. However, the valve kit being purchased by the OP has air compressor fittings so I have assumed that he will use air.
Yes, he probably will. I mainly posted that technique for those who might make use of it someday. It’s valuable for those folks not having an air compressor.
Apologies for the delay—I've been incredibly busy and couldn't address the car issues until now.
To test a theory before I remove the valve covers and replace the valve seals again, I've vented the valve covers to the atmosphere, adding filters to both banks and sealing off the manifold lines. This temporary setup is to check if the PCV system is at fault and pulling excessive oil when there is high vacuum. I plan to drive the car for a few days to burn off any oil in the manifold, and then I'll retest after a downhill drive to see if there's still smoke and watch oil consumption.
Note: I did a vacuum test and engine is healthy, at idle its steady at 18 inch of mercury, and when you hit and release throttle fast, the vacuum goes to zero, then jumps to 25, then stabilises at 18.
If it turns out that the PCV system is the issue, I’m unsure of the next steps since the one currently in the car is a new OEM part purchased from eBay. As a precaution, I’ve also bought a new one directly from Jaguar UK to have as a backup, though all three appear to be functioning properly.
I didn't have much time for further testing, but I did test drive it with the PCV system venting to the atmosphere through filters on both banks. Unfortunately, the problem persists.
I'm struggling to find OEM valve seals that are reasonably priced.
This week, I plan to remove the supercharger and coolers to inspect the intake valves and check for oil leakage.
If the valve seals don't resolve the issue, I'm considering replacing the engine since I prefer not to deal with the piston rings.
Can anyone advise on which 4.2 SC engines are interchangeable with the X100 XKR? Would the following work:
- STR 4.2 SC
- XJR 4.2 SC
- X150 XKR 4.2 SC
- Range Rover 4.2 SC
- Other models?
Of course, I will transfer all necessary components from the old engine to the new one.