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The good news is that I have been DRIVING the ‘97 XK8 (conv), that I bought 10 1/2 months ago. I think most kinks are taken care of, the important ones anyway. So I have the list of recommended maintenance ready for my mechanic. I have a couple questions to put to forum members(forewarned is pre armed):
-plugs were changed at 41,000 miles in 2018, should they be replaced anyway?
-assuming that hydraulics need to be inspected(gelling of the top hydraulics?)
-have seen “ Autologic to check for stored computer faults”. Could those stored faults cause problems?
-tensioners were changed by original owner, but do they still need inspection and what would one be looking for?
-anything that isn’t in the normal service schedule that you guys would advise?
My undying gratitude to you guys, in advance. I’m sure that since I can’t work on the car much, mechanically, at least being knowledgeable (or not looking too stupid) is a huge bonus.
Beer my place…
I would not change the plugs if they are the NGK irradium type . They should last well over 75,000 miles.
I would change the read end lube. Mobil makes a very good fluid in both 75w-90 and 75w-140. If you taking the car on longer trips I’d suggest the 75w-140 for the enhanced wear protection. It should be changed every 40,000 miles at least, IMHO.
Z
PS has the coolant, power steering, and ATF been changed ?
If not or you don’t know, then add those to the list.
even though the factory does not specify a synthetic oil, there’s no good reason for not taking advantage of the quantum advances in oil since these cars were made. (Mobil 1) 0w-40 or 5w-40 is the viscosity specified in my owners manual for my climate. Your climate may be different and a lighter weight oil is called for. But as hot as California is these days, I’d think a 0w-40 would perfect year round. In my state (Oklahoma) summers are brutal so I’m going with 5w-40 my next oil change. My car is a daily driver, so I know I’ll be needing another oil change (or two) before winter hits and I go back to 0w-40.
60,000 is an expensive milestone unless you know exactly what has been done to the car .
Most particularly the timing chains/tensioners, you should at least check the top ones to see if they are plastic or metal and if plastic get them changed.
My starter motor was going strong at 111000 but I would be looking to change the alternator brushes .
Brake pads ,the front particularly need checking ,the rears seem to last for ever.
Transmission oil change for certain.
Water pump ? How old is that ?
Do you have the right dip stick level? It was raised one quart for the original cars.
Change the brake fluid, Change the rear axle oil ( you need to cut a hole in the trunk to access that !!)
People think a low milage car is a good buy but all the items that wear out will soon need to be changed.
Last edited by Pistnbroke; 05-20-2022 at 12:18 AM.
In the pile of service invoices I received with the ‘97 xk8, I found that the PO had the plugs replaced at 43,000 miles, in 2018. Unfortunately, the invoice did not specify the type/brand of plugs used(dumb). Tensioners were also replaced at that time(checked that BEFORE I bought the car).
Question is; with only 16,000 miles on the car since plugs changed, is there any reason to do so at the 60,000 mile service? Car runs fine. I’ve been quoted $560 just for the labor & parts on those plugs.
ALSO; is it an easy enough job , if a necessity, for a decent shadetree mechanic?
My nephew probably would do the job for a ticket to see Coco Montoya……
In the pile of service invoices I received with the ‘97 xk8, I found that the PO had the plugs replaced at 43,000 miles, in 2018. Unfortunately, the invoice did not specify the type/brand of plugs used(dumb). Tensioners were also replaced at that time(checked that BEFORE I bought the car).
Question is; with only 16,000 miles on the car since plugs changed, is there any reason to do so at the 60,000 mile service? Car runs fine. I’ve been quoted $560 just for the labor & parts on those plugs.
ALSO; is it an easy enough job , if a necessity, for a decent shadetree mechanic?
My nephew probably would do the job for a ticket to see Coco Montoya……
short answer, NO, there is no 'reasonable' REASON, but spending $ does help the economy.
WJ
short answer, NO, there is no 'reasonable' REASON, but spending $ does help the economy.
WJ
You a VERY funny person!! Personally, I have supported the economy way beyond my means! Especially the automotive service and parts industry. Last time I took the Jag into my mechanic, he said, “is there a problem with MY car?” I replied that he owed me a lot of storage fees and specialty auto detailing fees…
I would not change the plugs if they are the NGK irradium type . They should last well over 75,000 miles.
I would change the read end lube. Mobil makes a very good fluid in both 75w-90 and 75w-140. If you taking the car on longer trips I’d suggest the 75w-140 for the enhanced wear protection. It should be changed every 40,000 miles at least, IMHO.
Z
PS has the coolant, power steering, and ATF been changed ?
If not or you don’t know, then add those to the list.
even though the factory does not specify a synthetic oil, there’s no good reason for not taking advantage of the quantum advances in oil since these cars were made. (Mobil 1) 0w-40 or 5w-40 is the viscosity specified in my owners manual for my climate. Your climate may be different and a lighter weight oil is called for. But as hot as California is these days, I’d think a 0w-40 would perfect year round. In my state (Oklahoma) summers are brutal so I’m going with 5w-40 my next oil change. My car is a daily driver, so I know I’ll be needing another oil change (or two) before winter hits and I go back to 0w-40.
zray…I’ve checked out what is involved with changing the differential oil, and see that it usually involves the hole method . I haven’t looked , yet, to see if that was done on this ‘97 xk8, but doubt it. John of To the Garage made it look easy. Don’t know that I want my shop to do this, wondering if I should just bite the bullet and take it to the Jaguar dealer shop?
This 60,000 mi service is a killer. Yeah, I love the car. A lot. Taking it out for a nice drive, just after I detail it, makes it worth it.
My experience is with changing the rear end fluid on a coupe. It’s my understanding that the convertible offers a more difficult procedure, but that there are several different approaches one may take .
I would weigh the pros and cons of each technique before making a decision on the best path to take. I believe there are alternatives to
cutting holes in the sheet metal to get the job done. But it would be best left to the more experienced among us to expound on the procedure(s).
I am certain of one thing. If you can’t definitely say how long it’s been since the fluid was charged, then it’s been too long and I would not put it off. The rear end gears have a checkered reputation for durability. Changing the fluid often is going to be needed to get them to last of life of the car.
i changed my car’s rear end fluid as soon as a bought it with 116,000 miles on the clock. The detailed service records showed no rear end maintenance being done prior to my ownership..
Not surprisingly it looked and smelled horrid.. I changed it again 40,000 miles later. It looked just as bad as the previous time. Based on my experiences I believe charging the fluid every 30,000 to 35,000 miles is warranted.
...wondering if I should just bite the bullet and take it to the Jaguar dealer shop?
"We don't do that, Madam. It's 'sealed for life'"
I *think* the job is easier on the earlier cars rather than a coupe/convertible difference (unless the X-brace gets in the way?). Sure I read here somewhere there's an extra obstruction on later cars.
It's on my list so hoping it's not a bear.
There seems to be a convenient hole in the rear A-frame to allow access to the diff drain plug that isn't fitted
Last edited by michaelh; 05-26-2022 at 02:55 PM.
Reason: add quotes
I *think* the job is easier on the earlier cars rather than a coupe/convertible difference (unless the X-brace gets in the way?). Sure I read here somewhere there's an extra obstruction on later cars.
It's on my list so hoping it's not a bear.
There seems to be a convenient hole in the rear A-frame to allow access to the diff drain plug that isn't fitted
michael…. Loved that first part…. Because with me anyway, it’s a matter of what I trust my independent mechanic with and whether I have to just take it to a full-fledged Jaguar shop($$$$). Taking it to Jaguar next Tuesday and I will find out..😱…..if the “sealed for life” will be tossed like a gauntlet….
I just don’t have a real option. Will let indie do quite a lot of the 60,000 mi service, yet I cannot afford to have them learn on my car.
Is it just me, who distrusts pretty much every shop? I have lost my naïveté. I suspect they would screw up, break clips, etc, not torque properly, or not put all bolts, clamps back. And the guys who figuratively pat me on the head, are going to lose some favorite body parts…..
Hey Sister
So glad to hear your car is working out well. I can't see going to a Jag dealer. Cost would be ridiculous IF they knew how to work an XK8. Sac Jag doesn't. ATF change on an 5 speed is a must at 50k so it's time. Tom's Transmission did the trans fluid (Mercon) on my 01. Nice guy, reasonable price. It did shift more smoothly after the change. I have mixed feelings about Stewarts. Yes they are competent. Yes it's pretty easy to get a service appointment. However the labor and parts mark up are expensive. They did the trans fluid change on my 03. Based on the price, I expected Mercon ATF. Invoice says Castrol. May/maybe it really doesn't make any difference but there have been many conversations in here about this. Plugs aren't that hard to do but I agree that doing them at this point isn't needed. I know nothing about British Car Service other than they're always scheduling months out. For fluids change (brakes, coolant, PS), my local Goodyear has no problem doing. Changing them is a great idea and you're smart to be thinking about it. On the tensioners, see if PO did all four. If so, they're probably metal and everything else (guides, chains, etc) probably done too which is what you want. Check the invoice for details and cost. Also, recommend a wireless OBD port reader. Connects to a cell phone and gives you coolant temps and charging info. Can see problems (especially temps) before they get out of hand. After reading about the differential oil change, tempted to pretend it doesn't need to be done (but it does). Hope this helps.
Hey Sister
So glad to hear your car is working out well. I can't see going to a Jag dealer. Cost would be ridiculous IF they knew how to work an XK8. Sac Jag doesn't. ATF change on an 5 speed is a must at 50k so it's time. Tom's Transmission did the trans fluid (Mercon) on my 01. Nice guy, reasonable price. It did shift more smoothly after the change. I have mixed feelings about Stewarts. Yes they are competent. Yes it's pretty easy to get a service appointment. However the labor and parts mark up are expensive. They did the trans fluid change on my 03. Based on the price, I expected Mercon ATF. Invoice says Castrol. May/maybe it really doesn't make any difference but there have been many conversations in here about this. Plugs aren't that hard to do but I agree that doing them at this point isn't needed. I know nothing about British Car Service other than they're always scheduling months out. For fluids change (brakes, coolant, PS), my local Goodyear has no problem doing. Changing them is a great idea and you're smart to be thinking about it. On the tensioners, see if PO did all four. If so, they're probably metal and everything else (guides, chains, etc) probably done too which is what you want. Check the invoice for details and cost. Also, recommend a wireless OBD port reader. Connects to a cell phone and gives you coolant temps and charging info. Can see problems (especially temps) before they get out of hand. After reading about the differential oil change, tempted to pretend it doesn't need to be done (but it does). Hope this helps.
Thanks Jim. I appreciate the input. Although I tend to overthink absolutely everything, I think that in the case of the Jag, it’s best to be OCD then complacent.
Here’s an unfortunate development; yesterday discovered the return of front end little leak(always cardboard underneath). After rear main seal replacement , that had stopped entirely. Until yesterday. Appointment in shop on Tuesday.
Anybody have input on THIS??
I am, of course kidding on the level. There is one item I wish I had checked on my '97 because it simply broke from old age. That's the hose that runs from the transmission to the transmission cooler. It's a relatively inexpensive fix and from what I gather, relatively common. It will leak if its going bad too, and you will know it if it's leaking badly! If I had a convertible, I'd probably check for leaks there too.
My maintenance philosophy is stay away from things that make the car run correctly, until they don't, inspect for leaks and replace hoses before they burst.
The old joke is, my car is older than I am, and leaks more. Car is only 25 so I have it beat on age, but the leaking part is a tie!
Last edited by Truck Graphics; 05-27-2022 at 12:03 PM.