'99 XK8 4.0 injector replacement
#1
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'99 XK8 Convertible 94,000 mi.
Hi All: I just replaced the injectors. Not very hard at all. Patients and attention to detail.
First I blew of the top of the engine and around each injector with my air compressor. Clean is Good. Relieve pressure on system. Left fuel rail has test port. Looks like the top of a tire stem.
There are two sets of clips to be removed. Electrical connections and fuel rod. I put a rag under the area in case you drop a clip. I did the electrical connectors first. Using a small flat screw driver on the bottom of the connector push the clip out. Sometimes they fly off hence the rag. Remove the connectors. Reposition rag to cover any open areas. Next remove the fuel rod clips. Again, same screw driver. Look over to the back side of the injector. You'll see the clip. The clip has a little slot, turn the screw driver and the clip will come off. ATTENTION: Remove them slowly. These clips will fly off. Try to get a pair of needle nose plyers to grab the clip as it comes out. Once the clips are out you can remove the fuel rail. Pull with steady pressure. Mine were really on there. A little wiggling and it will come off. Some times the injector comes with it. No problem. Any injectors left in the engine or rail pull straight away from the engine or rail. Once removed I used some break cleaner on a microfiber rag (no lint) and cleaned the rail and the engine ports. I payed special attention to the engine ports. There is a ridge the O ring sets in. Make sure it is very clean.
Reinstalling the injectors;
There are several different types of lube for the O rings suggested on the forum. I used AGS spark plug boot protector. Use just enough to lightly cover the O ring. I found that installing the injectors on the fuel rail worked best. Because the clips are tough to get on. At the top of the injector there are little two slots This is where the clip slides into. you'll see that the ears on the clip will attach to the fuel rail.. VERY IMPORTANT. Next lube the two other O rings. Place the injectors into the engine. You can start from the back of the engine and move forward until each is seated. Next: I found that installing the clips on the electrical connectors half way then connecting to the injectors worked best. Just push the clip forward and it will click into place. IMPORTANT: Recheck all the clips to make sure they are in their correct positions.
Start your car and check for leaks. If no leaks let the car reach temp. and test drive. Luckily mine did not.
The performance was very noticeable. Very smooth acceleration from standing stop and on the highway. At about 60 I pushed steadily down on the pedal and it kicked down to fourth gear and just pulled very smoothly to 90 without a hitch.
I hope this will help. I had never done this before. I do have some experience. I replaced the timing chains and tensioners along with the water pump etc last year. Serviced the Trans and rear end last year.
Next: Overhaul the front suspension.
Safe Driving
Mitch
Hi All: I just replaced the injectors. Not very hard at all. Patients and attention to detail.
First I blew of the top of the engine and around each injector with my air compressor. Clean is Good. Relieve pressure on system. Left fuel rail has test port. Looks like the top of a tire stem.
There are two sets of clips to be removed. Electrical connections and fuel rod. I put a rag under the area in case you drop a clip. I did the electrical connectors first. Using a small flat screw driver on the bottom of the connector push the clip out. Sometimes they fly off hence the rag. Remove the connectors. Reposition rag to cover any open areas. Next remove the fuel rod clips. Again, same screw driver. Look over to the back side of the injector. You'll see the clip. The clip has a little slot, turn the screw driver and the clip will come off. ATTENTION: Remove them slowly. These clips will fly off. Try to get a pair of needle nose plyers to grab the clip as it comes out. Once the clips are out you can remove the fuel rail. Pull with steady pressure. Mine were really on there. A little wiggling and it will come off. Some times the injector comes with it. No problem. Any injectors left in the engine or rail pull straight away from the engine or rail. Once removed I used some break cleaner on a microfiber rag (no lint) and cleaned the rail and the engine ports. I payed special attention to the engine ports. There is a ridge the O ring sets in. Make sure it is very clean.
Reinstalling the injectors;
There are several different types of lube for the O rings suggested on the forum. I used AGS spark plug boot protector. Use just enough to lightly cover the O ring. I found that installing the injectors on the fuel rail worked best. Because the clips are tough to get on. At the top of the injector there are little two slots This is where the clip slides into. you'll see that the ears on the clip will attach to the fuel rail.. VERY IMPORTANT. Next lube the two other O rings. Place the injectors into the engine. You can start from the back of the engine and move forward until each is seated. Next: I found that installing the clips on the electrical connectors half way then connecting to the injectors worked best. Just push the clip forward and it will click into place. IMPORTANT: Recheck all the clips to make sure they are in their correct positions.
Start your car and check for leaks. If no leaks let the car reach temp. and test drive. Luckily mine did not.
The performance was very noticeable. Very smooth acceleration from standing stop and on the highway. At about 60 I pushed steadily down on the pedal and it kicked down to fourth gear and just pulled very smoothly to 90 without a hitch.
I hope this will help. I had never done this before. I do have some experience. I replaced the timing chains and tensioners along with the water pump etc last year. Serviced the Trans and rear end last year.
Next: Overhaul the front suspension.
Safe Driving
Mitch
Last edited by rsdmitch7; 04-19-2020 at 11:59 AM. Reason: misspelled words
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Drivability before was slightly rough until it warmed completely up. If I drove it for awhile when restarting sometimes it would run really rough. I would put injector cleaner (Lucas) in every other tank full. That seemed to keep it under control. I bought refurbished injectors off Ebay. The company is here in the states. I'll look for the name and let you know. I also replaced the coils and plugs when I did the timing chains and tensioners. The coils I bought from Ebay also. Chinese made with US distributor which was rated very high. I contacted them about the coils and was satisfied they were legit. So far, over one year and no problems. If your car has a lot of miles. It might be something to think about changing. I'm going to take the car over to an old time Jag Mechanic in town an put it on a diagnostics machine. It does run much smother. Nice to hear from you.
Thanks
Mitch
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Johnken (04-21-2020)
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