When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I can't give you a resistance value - although what you report doesn't seem extraordinary - but if both coils are measuring the same they're likely OK.
What symptoms are you experiencing that lead you to suspect an issue with the VVT solenoids?
Thanks for the reply. That's kind of what I thought as well, seems like a normal reading and yes similar on both solenoids.
I did see someone mentioned 10ohms, and another post saying as low as 5ohms. It would be nice to have clarification.
I'm chasing the dreaded p1396 and p1384 codes. Started as intermittent with p1384 first, then progressed to both p1384 and p1396
Some history on car, old neglected engine was swapped with newer, lower mileage, and new timing, updated tensioners etc.and brand new battery installed.
Codes didn't show up until months later after engine swap. figured it was dirty oil or dirty vvt solenoids, or clearances opening up needing thicker oil.
So started with simplest:
1) Changed oil with flushing engine (liqui moly flush) each oil change. Progressively moved up from 5w30 to 10w40 to 20w50 even tried Mobil 1 5w50 synthetic. No change after couple thousand miles.
2)Tried the "Restore" product. Ran the Restore for a few thousand miles. No change.
Flushed and drained, and now running Rotella T6 15w40 conventional to clean everything out.
3) Dropped oil pan found 1/8th of an inch of sludge that looked like the flushed "Restore" residual.
Didn't find any old tensioner pieces, no sludge in uptake tube, nothing blocking screen etc.
4) Pulled bank 1 cam cover and vvt solenoid . 12v tested and thoroughly cleaned vvt while opened and closed. Springs looked good, a little bit of varnish build up on base of solenoid, cleaned as best I could.
5) replaced cracked plastic vvt solenoid connectors.
6) checked vvt connections/solenoid for ohms, voltage etc with multimeter. Checked fuses and relays.
still not sure what correct ohms or volts should be, but I am getting power to solenoids.
I checked the wiring to the ECM for anything loose, looks good, clean.
I had found a post that I believe was JTIS on testing wiring and shorts for vvt due to p1384 code. Tried to follow as best I could;
Just learning how to use the multimeter and don't understand all the verbage to start pulling the plugs out of ECM to check wiring from " pins to plugs " that JTIS was referring to...just need to set some time aside and familiarize myself with it.
I did find that the wiring harness / loom on back of engine is not bolted down, (probably forgotten with engine swap) looks like there's supposed to be two bolts holding the housing. Wondering if this could be causing a possible weird ground situation for vvt solenoids.
After cleaning bank 1 solenoid on passenger side, and putting back cam cover; during the test drives the codes didn't flag like they usually did before...(both codes would flag a half mile on 2nd drive cycle)
I thought I was almost out of the woods...
Instead of two drive cycles (both codes would flag a half mile on 2nd drive cycle)
it took three drive cycles and it only flagged one code...oddly it was p1384 for bank1, the vvt solenoid side I just cleaned.
I test drove it again and checked codes and then had both p1384 and p1396 had flagged.
That's where I'm at now, and was thinking of purchasing new vvt solenoids to check the ohms out of the box..., but think more wire testing could prove where the fault is; or if it is even the solenoids...
Sadly he hasn't been on the forum for four years so we don't know if he ever solved it. One thing he didn't do was to replace the small oil filter in each VVT unit. These could be clogged if you've had sludge issues, but it's a timing cover off task to check them SNG Barratt has a picture: https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#...0%60AJ81264%60
By 'wiring harness / loom on back of engine' do you mean the large multiplug that sits at the top of the bellhousing?
John - the VVT units on the AJ27 are different to ours
Michael thanks much for your thorough reply to my long winded xk8 laundry list !
Yes I'll have to revisit the Dale Dunn threads, maybe I missed something along the way. Thanks for easy link access.
He certainly covered all the bases it seems...is a great thread of man vs machine. Unfortunate no resolution.
And huge thanks for the small filter tip in the VVT; sounds a bit out of my league at the moment, but yes will research.
I think if I can figure out the wiring, I can at least rule it out.
I just took a very spirited drive per your attachment accelerating full throttle up to 75 mph and safely decelerating on the shoulder of the road to full stop. Was quite fun actually, car is very responsive and doesn't seem to have any issues
I think the codes may come back according to OBD...
And yes to what you said about the wiring behind the engine /trans. That's what's unbolted.
Also forgot to mention that I removed upper rear cam cover bolts on both sides to verify they are the correct (slightly different gold color and a hair shorter) bolts.
As previous posts have noted ; to make sure of not interfering with Cam position sensor.
Had the same issue with mine, when I replaced the timing chains I didn't replace the VVT seals, big mistake. However problem solved, added a qt of Lucas oil additive, no more problems. Must add I don't like synthetic oil on older engines, it just seems to find places to escape that conventional oil can't find. I use Castrol GTX 20-50 with the Lucas additive and it works fine in our California heat wave conditions!
^^ Same here regarding conventional oil vs. synthetic oil. My 1999 Ram, my 2013 Outback 3.6R, and her 2006 XK8 were all designed to run conventional oil so that is what they get (Castrol GTX 5W-30). Her 2015 RX350 requires synthetic 0W-20 to satisfy the drivetrain warranty so that is what it gets (Mobil1)....
Yes totally agree with conventional oil after lengthy experimentation between synthetic and dino.
I even ran synthetic 10w60 motul and got good results with pressure and engine sounded good, but even that still seeped in top and bottom of engine areas that the conventional doesn't.
Now for 1k miles, have been running conventional 15w40 t6 shell rotella (with no seeping or leaks) to clean things out. Will run for another 1k miles or so, then will do liqui moly flush again.
Then will switch to the conventional 5w40 t6 rotella thru the winter to continue the cleaning; as I really believe the codes are what Mike pointed out about clogged VVT screens in the motor as my vvt solenoids seem fine after bench testing.
Now this may be coincidental, but...
Unfortunately when I ran the "Restore" product that has been talked about and recommended for p1384 and p1396 codes ; that's when I experienced changes in the motor like poor idle and and shortly after flagged not only p1384 but also p1396.
I also made the mistake (in my case) of adding the whole can of Restore at once; I think the safer way (in my case) would have been to add it a 1/4 of the can at a time, and driving or running engine in between.
I believe in most instances "Restore" is probably a fantastic product, but my engine may have had some previous unknown clogging issues that weren't fully cleared ( even though I flushed the motor before using it.)
After using the "Restore" and then again flushing with liqui moly, I dropped the pan I had 1/8" thick sludge build up in bottom of pan. I had to use a plastic scraper to remove it. Not sure if it was all the product or also sludge from before as well.
There's now a warning about using "Restore" and tight VVT clearances on their website.
But again I'm not qualified to say but will only comment from my experience and feel that the cleanliness of the motor before use might be essential.
The good news is if you experience what I did ; it seems that if you use the product it can be flushed just as quickly.
Will then switch to the Castrol gtx 20w 50 in the spring.
In addition to trying the oil route of slowly cleaning motor; I'm still trying to solve these p1384 and p1396 codes (hopefully this weekend ) with also testing wiring to the ECM and plugs, grounds, pins etc per JTIS.
Still not sure if this quest is mechanical or electrical...or both
But man what a journey it's been...
The seals are not allowing enough oil pressure to alter the timing!
I struggled with the 1396 code for a long long time (must have tried to re-set to fully retarded 5times in the earliest days with the car) nothing worked - and ultimately, what I think I remember understanding is, the cylinder head that I put in the car (came to me with a dropped valve seat) was not offering signal that the ECU would accept or recognize. Later, I swapped in a low milage 2000 engine (she's a 2002) and the problem was solved (immediately!). I was like damn.
I thought that I read that the engine you are dealing with is new to the car??? What year? I think it matters. I think the difference MIGHT lay (is that the correct usage of lie lay, oh hell) in the number or positioning of the lobes on the INTAKE cams of the donor part. In this case - both intake cams.
Look. I could be wrong but just thought I would throw it out there.
And,,, most everything in the VVT on these cars is steel. No rubber bits or seals. The carrier for the VVT rests flatly to the ports on the head, as do the tensioners etc. all todo with oil pressure related automatic adjustment is just a port to port, metal to metal, connection/fit... But that's from memory...
(EDIT) The ONE SET of bits that are not steel are these 4 nylon slip over type SEALS that ride on the nozzles that poke into the front holes on the VVT gear set - but both sides failing in the same way,,,, well, maybe...? So, phob might be onto something!
If I am wrong (happens lots) - what might help and it's a ton of work, figure out a way to pump a bunch of solvent INTO the VVT unit/mechanism (still attached) on the front of the intake cam? I've taken them apart (200k + car) and the inside was spotless. They are actually pretty simple inside. But if you can partly remove the valve cover (leaving harmonic in place) and pull back the cover enough to get the carrier and it's seals out of the hole in the face of the VVT gear set - then pump in some solvent...? I dunno.
Also forgot to mention that I removed upper rear cam cover bolts on both sides to verify they are the correct (slightly different gold color and a hair shorter) bolts.
I was going to mention those, so you've saved me the embarrassment of 'been there, done that'
It is a recurring theme that these codes appear after timing work has been done. Since the car is complaining that the inlet cam alignments aren't where it thinks they should be in relation to the crankshaft, I wonder if the process of ensuring there's no slack in the chain drive side and that the VVTs are fully retarded during reassembly has failed somewhere?
As Jay mentions, there is a pair of seals on each 'variable camshaft timing oil control unit housing' where it plugs into the end of the cam - these must be subject to rotational wear. They will have been replaced if the Jaguar procedure has been followed correctly, but again, it's a timing cover off job to check/renew.
Phobman, JayJag and Mike--
Phobman thanks for reiterating the seals...
and thanks to JayJag and Mike who are also trying to narrow it down to a possible seal issue.
Unfortunately the mechanic who did the semi rebuild of timing/tensioners in newer engine is no longer with us. Otherwise I'd be able to get an answer as to whether split/new seals were done.
The odd thing is, xk8 ran great for two months after engine swap, no codes even with running 5w 30.
However, one thing I forgot to mention earlier in posts was a momentary oil pressure gauge issue, which I'd nearly forgotten about because it hasn't resurfaced and only happened one time.
When I came off the freeway after a 200 mile coastal hillside drive on a warm day... the oil pressure on the dummy guage started to waiver. I also noticed then that oil was a quart low.
After pressure gauge fiasco, that's when I started with the oil changes and Restore product.
And coincidentally around the same time then started to get p1384.
Pressure has been fine with 15w40 ever since; Anything below that weight, and I wonder if I'd start to get the dummy guage to waiver again.
Tested the real engine pressure and it was good as well.
JayJag, I will check year of motor tomorrow; hopeful to get a good glimpse of serial number on block. From what I can recollect ,engine came out of an '00 or '01 XJ8 and was fitted with new timing, tensioners etc. When I pulled cam off, I could see all work to timing had been done as promised.
Mike, yes idle is strong and seems consistent. However, about every two, three minutes or more, sitting at a light, there is a quick skip or beat. Not noticeable to most but I'm able to pick up on it.
Maybe now I should try Phobman's suggestion of 20w 50 AND Lucas... maybe that's the alternative to taking the front and,or cam cover off and checking seals?
When folks have there hands full with an issue I try to be careful about sending folks is 10 different directions, so I apologize for that... BUT, and I'm no expert, there may be differences in the engine (cam signals) between 99 and 01. And with where the engine was sourced XJ or something. I could very easily be wrong about this tho.
08-16-2021, 08:08 PM
99 XK8 vvt solenoid ohms range
SNG Barratt has a picture:
