I had the ABS/DSC warning light with no DTC codes so I tried the fix of opening the module and re-soldering the power pins.


Its a pain in the *** but it will wiggle out
There are four E-torx bolts and two plugs. You'll cut the plastic away from the module above the two-prong plug. You can hold the tip of the iron on the post and the solder will melt back onto the board.



I cut the corner out with a Dremel. Melted the solder. Glued it back and covered it with Gorilla tape. Re-installed and the message was gone and hasn't come back.

There are much better write-ups out there just thought I'd share that it works great.

 

Well done....

 

If you repaired the module power pins and the display does not show a fault, then there is a DTC in the module!!
The DTC will show C1095, You cannot read the DTC with a generic OBDII reader but a diagnostic tool with CHASSIS code capability will show the DTC.

The DTC will remain logged in the module until cleared but the display will not show the fault.

bob

 

I'm getting ready to try the same fix. Can you elaborate on the "wiggle out" statement ? I'm assuming you left the brake lines hooked up and in place, which is what I'd like to do.
Did you have to remove, or loosen anything else ? Was the windshield washer fill spout majorly in the way ?

any and ALL tips will be appreciated and repaid with any adult beverage you desire. That offer extends to anyone else having accomplished the same feat without undoing the brake lines

Cheers !

Z

PS I do have the 1095 fault code.

 

I just did the same fix- a couple of times! I am by far not the expert on this, but thought I would pass along my experience.

The windshield washer spout is in the way. To remove it, grab the top and rotate it toward the front of the car about 1/8 of a turn. To remove the module, remove the 2 nuts on the power steering reservoir and move slightly out of the way. Remove the 4 bolts holding the ABS module to the Valve body ( I think I used a 5/32 or 7/32 nut driver for this). Unplug the large connector, and then unplug the smaller 2 pin connector that is underneath it. Remove the 4 10mm bolts holding the abs assembly to the fender. Now you can rotate the whole abs assembly toward the middle of the car slightly to try and gain some room for the module to be removed. It requires that the brake lines "give" a little to make clearance. I did have to slightly move one of the brake lines to get some clearance. You can loosen slightly the brake line connection enough to move the line without getting a leak.

Only hassle I had was getting the Windshield Washer spout back on. Remove the inspection panel in the left side fenderwell, and you can grab the hose from the washer that goes through the fenderwell. This should allow you to slip the spout on and rotate it to catch.

 

I just started on this about thirty minutes ago and went the route of just removing the brake lines from the pump. There was no possible way i was going to be able to just get the module out alone.

Not a drop of brake fluid came out of the lines, which to me is...... concerning.
The inside of everything looked bone dry.

Are the brake line fittings going into this pump truly the brake lines going into the wheel wells and connected to my brake calipers?

Someone had already beaten me to this fix, a previous owner had cut the corner out of this module and soldered those pins. I cut away their JB Weld and continuity tested the soldered power pins, they seemed to be fine.


I am not entirely sure what my next step should be for this repair. Should I be trying to send the module off for repair to one of the ebay repair shops?

Why would my pump be dry? I checked the fuses, wires, and wheel speed sensors and reluctor rings.

I have a brake warning light on my dashboard right now that is flicking on and off rapidly while driving. The brake fluid reservoir is full.

 

What DTC is logged in the module?

Without diagnosing the fault you are GUESSING!

Let the guessing begin!

bob

 

@motorcarman



This would be the culprit for me.

Considering I have cleaned and measured the resistance of each wheel speed sensor, continuity checked each wheel speed sensor wire. Replaced all ABS related fuses. Reflowed the solder on the ABS ECU, and measured the resistance of the ABS module and ABS pump.

I think I have done just a little bit of the diagnosing. At least enough to say it is not guess work that is being done.

I just yesteday, almost immediately after posting this, realized that darbysan was experiencing the exact same symptoms that i was in his own abs thread. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...g-help-220742/ I think that is the lead I need, I will talk to the module repair company as i highly suspect that this abs module is malfunctioning.


The concerning thing to me truly is, if these are the brake lines to the wheels that I just disconnected, why in the hell is there no fluid in them, they look like they have been dry on the inside for a long time. Additionally how in the hell was i driving and stopping the car with what i can see is only air in the lines lol. Surely there is fluid somewhere, but ....... the hell.