ABS light 2001 XK8
#61
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Finally
I got my meter and started trouble shooting. I found that the wire at the plug on the sensor end was broken, when I tested it last week I must have moved it just right to get continuity. I soldered it and put heat shrink tubing and put more silicon around it and the light finally went off. Thanks everyone for your input, much appreciated.
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#62
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zmann96 (08-21-2011)
#63
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Hate to scare you about the ABS/ASC, but mine kept comming on over and over again. I finally took it away from the dealer that sold me the car after taking back five times. I took it to my Jag dealer of choice and the reason these light keep comming on is the computer is bad and it cost 4k and has to be done by Jaguar factory. I am luck that the lemon law protects me as the problems started from week one during warranty period. The techs pulled out the Throtle body and that was clean and recently replaced. I had them check this becuase the car was also stalling out on idle. ASC message came across the screen, but showed no code several times when put on Jaguar computer.
#64
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Finally
I got my meter and started trouble shooting. I found that the wire at the plug on the sensor end was broken, when I tested it last week I must have moved it just right to get continuity. I soldered it and put heat shrink tubing and put more silicon around it and the light finally went off. Thanks everyone for your input, much appreciated.
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I've never seen a published instruction on the resistance checks that includes this important info. Maybe I've just missed it.
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zmann96 (08-22-2011)
#65
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Same problem with 2001 Vanden Plas. First, intermittent ABS Code, Trac Control not available. Later, say, 2,000 miles later on all the time. Went through sensors, and then hit the boards. My problem was the power contacts on the control module. The solder cracked, perhaps flex or age or expansion. Anyway, it is easy to get the control panel off, the pistons slide out. Difficult to get it apart, sealed with silicone and you have to peal off some of the plastic around the edges. Once open, the problem was quite obvious, re soldered the power connecter on the circuit board and put it back in the car. I used a high quality elastomeric sealant to re assemble. I used brown and it blended well and one cannot tell the piece was opened. There are firms who "rebuild" the unit, but they too will have to use force to get it open. No light, no problem, got Trac and Abs back.
#66
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Another satisfied customer (pointing to ztz). Hope you'll stick around and help others diagnose this recurring symptom, and encourage the DIY repair...as it can initially seem very overwhelming for owners with basic wrenching/soldering skills. I can't even call my soldering ability a skill... i can assure you of that!
#67
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BTW, I noticed that after it was fixed, I had bypassed the wiring going back into the wireloom that I had hooked up closer to the plug from the left wheel sensor wire. Found out the wire went into the loom to connect to the asc switch on the dash. Reconnected the wire as it was before I bypassed and everything is still working fine.
#68
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Hi guys..Been reading thru this forum and I must say its really a lot of help =) As everyone has been discussing, I'm having the "ABS and Traction Control" failure warning light on as soon as the igntion switch is turned on. Tried everything mentioned here, have checked all the wheel speed sensors, and they are fine. Even used an oscilloscope to check the wave patterns sent by the wheel speed sensors, and they are good. Next was removing and prying open the control unit to check for the broken solder joints but they look fine as well. Brake light switch also checked and its okie. Any ideas guys?? A bit stuck as well because I can't get a tester to scan the fault codes here in KL, Malaysia.
#69
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Hi Justin. I eventually got my system fixed, although I think my problem was different from yours, as the ignition light only came on at 25k's. I had the controller that sits under the ABS motor over-hauled, which didn't work out to expensive, $800nz. I was lead to believe it was an electrical fault, as my XJ6.3.2 litre, was an import to New Zealand from Hongkong, and was told that the electrics are subject to the high humidity. The information from the repairer was that the valves inside the controller can get blocked, so not quite sure what caused the problem. If your light comes on as soon as you turn on the ignition, it sounds to me that might be an electrical fault, as I think the ABS system only starts to work at 25k's, but who knows. Someone must have the correct computer to check it out. In the end I took the car to the Jag dealer, not doing so at first because I thought the cost would be more expensive than my local garage, but not so, I found them to be cheaper, as they got to the problem straight away. Pete.
#70
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Hi Justin. I eventually got my system fixed, although I think my problem was different from yours, as the ignition light only came on at 25k's. I had the controller that sits under the ABS motor over-hauled, which didn't work out to expensive, $800nz. I was lead to believe it was an electrical fault, as my XJ6.3.2 litre, was an import to New Zealand from Hongkong, and was told that the electrics are subject to the high humidity. The information from the repairer was that the valves inside the controller can get blocked, so not quite sure what caused the problem. If your light comes on as soon as you turn on the ignition, it sounds to me that might be an electrical fault, as I think the ABS system only starts to work at 25k's, but who knows. Someone must have the correct computer to check it out. In the end I took the car to the Jag dealer, not doing so at first because I thought the cost would be more expensive than my local garage, but not so, I found them to be cheaper, as they got to the problem straight away. Pete.
Thanks for your reply. Yeap the warning light comes on as soon as the ignition is turned on. I suspect its the control unit as well, but I can't confirm since I can't get a Jaguar original tester to read the fault code. The solder joints on the electrical board are ok and not broken like some as the others have encountered. Suggestions are appreciated
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