The picture of the module and actuator are from the OP car.

djpxk8 removed the bolts. Sometimes the bolts need to be removed for more clearance.

Once the module is separated from the actuator, the entire assy can be lifted and the lines BENT to tilt the module DOWN so that it will fall free and can be removed.

bob

 

I'm with the people who disconnected the brake lines rather then bend them, then I bled the brakes. I figured it was a good time to get some new brake fluid in there anyway.

 

Bending the lines is not damaging if you are diligent and careful.
Removing the lines might be better for most people but when you don't work at a Jaguar dealer with the car under Jaguar warranty, you can spend more time with it.

Since Jaguar warranty pays .8 hours (48 minutes) plus .3 (18 minutes) diagnostic time for ABS module replace, we mechanics tend to find faster ways to get things done.

After a few paychecks of 10 or 20 hours of labor for the week, you will either find faster ways or quit and find something else to do for a living!!

bob

 

Hi Bob, thanks for that ... I think I used a few bad words but in the end I got the unit out after removing the whole bracket.

I cut the corner off with a hacksaw but the solder joints looked good to me. I re-soldered them anyway and after first temporarily connecting the unit the ABS pump started to run and a test drive showed me 'Bob's your uncle', all good again!!!

Since put all back together and after a longer test run, it seems as if the problem is resolved!!

Thanks for your valuable tips!
Ian

 

Did not do it this within 0.8 hours, perhaps twice that (zero diagnostic time, since it was c1095 like for everyone else). First car a while back, I removed/replaced the lines and bled the brakes. Second car (this time), I tried the bendy procedure, which worked great. Really appreciate this Bob. I also did the 'cut the corner off with a hole saw and dremel' this time instead of the 'cut the module in half' of last time. That also worked great, though a drill press seemed essential for the hole saw part. I could not have done it by hand. But this took far less time than before. A bunch of time was spent waiting for the RTV to cure sufficiently to put the module back in. And I tried to artistically 'put the icing on the cake', but looks more like a three year old finger painted RTV on my module. See below...

I do fervently hope that the person(s) responsible for the solder job are no longer soldering anything together.

The power connector latch, however, disintegrated on the way back together. Anyone know a source for new ones?


Icing on the module

 

Answering my own question, partially, I looked for the Ate/Teves part (the ABS module/pump) spread across Ford and found it in several vehicles in my XK's era (Ford Explorer, Lincoln LS for example). Found a cheapish used module/pump and have purchased that. With a whole connector, I can presumably reduce the chances of it breaking again, even if it's fragile.

No luck, however, on a new source.

 

The soldering in this case would have been done by Robert the robot. If you have re-done the joints with good old-skool leaded solder you will be fine.

The connector latch fell off when I had mine apart (there may have been two latches - I only found one). Totally unsurprising given its extremely tenuous attachment in the first place. The plug seems to fit snugly enough to make the latching redundant, so I haven't looked to source a replacement. Time will tell.

 

Surprised about the machine soldering of that joint. The rest of the board looks pick and placed, but the two of these I've seen up close looked like crappy hand soldered joints, similar to several others I'v reworked in the car (INST connector joints, J-gate illumination module, etc) If machine, Robert has certainly gone to 'automation heaven', if not, I hope Robert or Roberta is quietly drinking at the pub in blissful retirement.

Yes, two latches, both departed when I pushed on them the second time. Since I now have the wrist strength of a six year old, I take little responsibility. Mine is held in now with a cable tie horizontally around the whole shebang, fluorescent pink. Works great, but offends my sense of history.

Will it fall out without the cable tie? Perhaps not.

 

Perhaps I've fallen into the 'assume' trap. Those pins in my ABS were machine-soldered, but there are variations - some pcbs have a 'gel' coating, some don't, and some module connectors are clearly manually fitted (e.g. SLM radio receiver board). Root cause of failure is lead-free solder's inferior mechanical characteristics.

Doomsayers insist that when the SHTF, it will be caused by nuclear war. IMO it will be a result of little plastic t*tties that break off - which pandemic started in the seventies with the little flap that hid the timer buttons on your VCR. Q.E.D.

 

I recently did the ABS module solder repair. I initially removed the module without taking loose the brake lines. That method does require you to move the assembly toward the engine to get the needed clearance. Of course there is still the bending of the brake lines and a fair amount of cussing involved. After I had the module back in place I became painfully aware of my having bent several of the connector’s pins. To straighten them the dang thing had to come out again. This time I elected to remove the brake lines. Much easier, and faster too, even if one has to do some brake line bleeding.

Having done it both ways, I’d always elect to remove the lines, it’s that much easier.

Z

PS. I partially filled up the brake line cavities in the brake line block before reattaching the lines. My brake required zero bleeding. YMMV.

 

Leaving air in the brake lines would bother me (the air in the bent section above the block), even if the pedal 'felt right'. I definitively cannot bleed the brakes in the same time it took to bend the lines up and out of the way.

 

I did bleed the brakes,’but there was zero air in the lines. Not uncommon if care is taken when the lines are opened.
with the right equipment I can easily do all four wheels in less than an hour

 

I agree it is easy to remove the brake lines and then bleed the system. Also remove the filler for the wiper water and the module will come out easily.. Mine was repaired by ModuleRepairPro in Los Angels with a lifetime warranty. However the ABS light came back to haunt me. I finally bought a code reader and the problem was the front harness was shot. Replaced the harness and no ABS light. I guess the moral of the story is to get a code reader that will do ABS codes and eliminate the guess work.

 

When I did this job, I disconnected the rigid lines and moved them out of the way. Yeah, I bled the brakes afterward. Flushed the system too.
As a licensed aircraft mechanic, bending rigid lines by hand, without a bending tool is against my religion.
I'm glad that folks are having good results, but that's not for me. The last thing I want is a kinked brake line.

 

Fascinating. Note that I have also done this the bleedy way, with exactly the same procedure you did and did see air, keeping in mind it took a while to work its way from the ABS location to the bleed valves. It's hard to imagine how one backfills the lines above the block. And yes, about an hour to bleed.

Second time (bendy), the whole operation took about an hour and a half, including fixing the module. First time (bleedy), it took about a half hour to get the module out (about the same time as with the bendy procedure the second time, not completely fair because I had already done it before on another car). First time, it took about an hour to fix the module itself, because I elected to split the module instead of going right to the pins. Second time, I used a hole saw to start the hole and a dremel to finish the hole which took about 60 seconds, the soldering took a few minutes, and the modern art RTV sealing job took another couple of minutes. My repair the first time took longer and looks better because I just had to seal along the seam and clamp rather than sealing the more complex corner. I decided the second time that how this repair looks is irrelevant as long as it seals. About 30 minutes to get the module back in on both repairs.

So,
Bendy - 1.5 hours (and no need to find/dispose of bleedy stuff) done late at night in my garage.
Bleedy - 3.0 hours done in my driveway because I don't want to get brake fluid on the floor of the garage if I can help it.

And, note, I am not an aircraft mechanic, which is probably a blessing for those who fly.

 

I'm sure my way of describing is not helping here.

1) If one is careful in handling the brake lines, i.e. move them gently away from the module, then no brake fluid drips out of them. I don't backfill the lines. I agree, how would one do that successfully ?

2) I added brake fluid to the cavities in the module, probably filled them halfway to the top, then gentle moved the lines back in place and tightened them slowly. As the lines were tightened up, the brake fluid level in the M/C reservoir began to rise up until it was almost coming out of the cap. This type of procedure doesn't guarantee that you won't end up with an air bubble in the brake system, but it does minimize the amount of air introduced, and you may get lucky, and have zero air to deal with. No sure way to know without bleeding the system of course.

Z

 

Indeed, just didn't want anyone who had not done it to get the impression that the bleeding step is unnecessary.

 

Based on the info in this thread I decided to attempt this repair. My wife's '01 has at first had an intermittant ABS/ Trac control light show up. Lately it has become steady each and every time she starts the car. Occationally the light would go out after a short drive. I am a gearhead at heart and if you give me a cam, pistons , and a crankshaft I can build you a fast engine. Electronics however scare the hell out of me. I'm always expecting to let the smoke out of the tiny little things that are soldered to the circuit board. Following the instruction on this thread, I am happy to report a successfull repair! Three days and no faults. I love this forum!

 

Fantastic, just curious, bend or bleed?

 

Bleed, removed all the brake lines and removed the entire ABS system before removing the module. Also, I have a set of spot weld cutters that have a spring loaded center punch built in. I used the largest one, about a half inch. Made the hole cut perfectly.