ABS Module Repair Costs/Recos?
#1
ABS Module Repair Costs/Recos?
MY 1999 XK8 has the intermittant ABS/Traction light, and I have researched the possible causes.
I have cleaned all four wheel sensors. No joy.
So, I intend to remove the module and, since I am not comfortable splitting the case and soldering the possible cold solder joints, I will have it rebuilt.
Since I plan to keep this Jag as long as I can still drive, I want a long warranty so I can avoid module problems in the future. I see that Automotive Scientific, Inc. (ASI) in TN charges $119 for the basic repair service, plus shipping, and an additional $100 for a lifetime warranty upgrade.
Module Repair Pro (MRP) in CA on FleaBay charges $45 plus shipping, and that includes a lifetime warranty.
1. Is the ASI repair service worth five times more than the MRP repair?
2. Has anyone on the forum had experience with MRP?
Input will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Jim
Kirkwood, MO
I have cleaned all four wheel sensors. No joy.
So, I intend to remove the module and, since I am not comfortable splitting the case and soldering the possible cold solder joints, I will have it rebuilt.
Since I plan to keep this Jag as long as I can still drive, I want a long warranty so I can avoid module problems in the future. I see that Automotive Scientific, Inc. (ASI) in TN charges $119 for the basic repair service, plus shipping, and an additional $100 for a lifetime warranty upgrade.
Module Repair Pro (MRP) in CA on FleaBay charges $45 plus shipping, and that includes a lifetime warranty.
1. Is the ASI repair service worth five times more than the MRP repair?
2. Has anyone on the forum had experience with MRP?
Input will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Jim
Kirkwood, MO
#2
Besides the module, the wires to the sensors are sometimes coming up with problems, especially the connection to the sensor itself. You might want to inspect these, and pay special attention to the rubber boots. They are supposedly no longer available from Jaguar, but folks have done repairs. I would start at the front, with the high heat from the brakes and the steering.
You probably already know, but the "right" answer is to somehow get the Jaguar-specific diagnostic codes read so you know where to look. It's not that easy without a Jaguar tool as these codes are not part of OBDII.
Last, do not discount the possibility of a weak battery. Check the voltage after the car has been sitting for a few hours. Anything below 12.3V is suspect. Battery maintenance helps here, to a point.
Hope this helps (some).
Best of luck, keep us posted.
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jimmiejag (02-08-2017)
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jimmiejag (02-09-2017)
#4
I've just had my ABS module circuit board motor supply 2 points re-soldered to cure the same ABS & Traction/Stability Control Faults that you have.
I'm not sure specifically which faults within your ABS Module will ASI or MRP be competent in repairing?
Therefore I recommend you first do the ABS module 2-point re-soldering, and then decide what to do next depending on the outcome.
I'm not sure specifically which faults within your ABS Module will ASI or MRP be competent in repairing?
Therefore I recommend you first do the ABS module 2-point re-soldering, and then decide what to do next depending on the outcome.
MY 1999 XK8 has the intermittant ABS/Traction light, and I have researched the possible causes.
I have cleaned all four wheel sensors. No joy.
So, I intend to remove the module and, since I am not comfortable splitting the case and soldering the possible cold solder joints, I will have it rebuilt.
Since I plan to keep this Jag as long as I can still drive, I want a long warranty so I can avoid module problems in the future. I see that Automotive Scientific, Inc. (ASI) in TN charges $119 for the basic repair service, plus shipping, and an additional $100 for a lifetime warranty upgrade.
Module Repair Pro (MRP) in CA on FleaBay charges $45 plus shipping, and that includes a lifetime warranty.
1. Is the ASI repair service worth five times more than the MRP repair?
2. Has anyone on the forum had experience with MRP?
Input will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Jim
Kirkwood, MO
I have cleaned all four wheel sensors. No joy.
So, I intend to remove the module and, since I am not comfortable splitting the case and soldering the possible cold solder joints, I will have it rebuilt.
Since I plan to keep this Jag as long as I can still drive, I want a long warranty so I can avoid module problems in the future. I see that Automotive Scientific, Inc. (ASI) in TN charges $119 for the basic repair service, plus shipping, and an additional $100 for a lifetime warranty upgrade.
Module Repair Pro (MRP) in CA on FleaBay charges $45 plus shipping, and that includes a lifetime warranty.
1. Is the ASI repair service worth five times more than the MRP repair?
2. Has anyone on the forum had experience with MRP?
Input will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Jim
Kirkwood, MO
#6
Follow-up:
I sent my ABS module to Module Repair Pro in Van Nuys, CA, for rebuilding. It cost $45 plus $10 shipping and they were quick, turning it around in two days. I re-installed the module and -- presto!-- no more stability control & traction control failure messages!
I recommend them before cutting into your unit yourself since, as noted by Richard, they will not accept a previously opened module for repair.
I sent my ABS module to Module Repair Pro in Van Nuys, CA, for rebuilding. It cost $45 plus $10 shipping and they were quick, turning it around in two days. I re-installed the module and -- presto!-- no more stability control & traction control failure messages!
I recommend them before cutting into your unit yourself since, as noted by Richard, they will not accept a previously opened module for repair.
Last edited by jimmiejag; 11-01-2017 at 08:32 PM.
#7
Follow-up:
I sent my ABS module to Module Repair Pro in Van Nuys, CA, for rebuilding. It cost $45 plus $10 shipping and they were quick, turning it around in two days. I re-installed the module and -- presto!-- no more stability control & traction control failure messages!
I recommend them before cutting into your unit yourself since, as noted by Richard, they will not accept a previously opened module for repair.
I sent my ABS module to Module Repair Pro in Van Nuys, CA, for rebuilding. It cost $45 plus $10 shipping and they were quick, turning it around in two days. I re-installed the module and -- presto!-- no more stability control & traction control failure messages!
I recommend them before cutting into your unit yourself since, as noted by Richard, they will not accept a previously opened module for repair.
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#8
OH! Jimmie! Did you think it was necessary to disconnect the battery?
I have to CA smog and need to drive the car about 200 miles to make the emissions computer read right. I've only driven it 97 miles since 2 years ago before the last smog test. New tires going to waste.
If I disconnect the battery it will start the emissions circuit all over again. So, do I really need to disconnect the whole battery and power?
I have to CA smog and need to drive the car about 200 miles to make the emissions computer read right. I've only driven it 97 miles since 2 years ago before the last smog test. New tires going to waste.
If I disconnect the battery it will start the emissions circuit all over again. So, do I really need to disconnect the whole battery and power?
#9
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: on the road in NE Oklahoma
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I split the case on mine and re-soldered the two usual culprits. That was about 2 years ago and no problems since.
note: I’ve been shutting the hood very gently ever since the repair. I don’t think letting it drop 12+ inches does the brittle solder joints any good.
Z
note: I’ve been shutting the hood very gently ever since the repair. I don’t think letting it drop 12+ inches does the brittle solder joints any good.
Z
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CA Jag (08-26-2021)
#10
OH! Jimmie! Did you think it was necessary to disconnect the battery?
I have to CA smog and need to drive the car about 200 miles to make the emissions computer read right. I've only driven it 97 miles since 2 years ago before the last smog test. New tires going to waste.
If I disconnect the battery it will start the emissions circuit all over again. So, do I really need to disconnect the whole battery and power?
I have to CA smog and need to drive the car about 200 miles to make the emissions computer read right. I've only driven it 97 miles since 2 years ago before the last smog test. New tires going to waste.
If I disconnect the battery it will start the emissions circuit all over again. So, do I really need to disconnect the whole battery and power?
fuses for mine (2000MY) are #16 and #18 engine bay fuse box.
#11
l very much doubt it would harm anything by leaving battery connected so long as a clean unplug/plugin is made. Compromise might be to pull the battery power fuses, the ignition power connection can stay so long as you leave key off.
fuses for mine (2000MY) are #16 and #18 engine bay fuse box.
fuses for mine (2000MY) are #16 and #18 engine bay fuse box.
Good suggestion. I'll check my fuse boxes and diagrams. Thanks.
Ken
#13
l very much doubt it would harm anything by leaving battery connected so long as a clean unplug/plugin is made. Compromise might be to pull the battery power fuses, the ignition power connection can stay so long as you leave key off.
fuses for mine (2000MY) are #16 and #18 engine bay fuse box.
fuses for mine (2000MY) are #16 and #18 engine bay fuse box.
Maybe the F4 "Adaptive Damping ECU" fuse in the BOOT box? What's "adaptive damping"?
Ken
#15
#16 and #18 in the box right next to the module and ABS pump? I don't seem to have any schematic to identify those fuses. My boot box lid shows ABS fuses at F4, F16, and F18 in the Left hand engine bay fuse box. Are those what you're talking about? What about the Traction Control and Suspension??
Maybe the F4 "Adaptive Damping ECU" fuse in the BOOT box? What's "adaptive damping"?
Ken
Maybe the F4 "Adaptive Damping ECU" fuse in the BOOT box? What's "adaptive damping"?
Ken
Adaptive damping is separate module.
edited to correct fuse location error.
Last edited by baxtor; 08-26-2021 at 06:05 PM.
#16
I use a fine tooth hack saw blade and make shallow cuts in the case until I can 'crack' the case open with small wedges.
DO NOT cut through the steel tubes for the mount bolts.
I had an argument years ago with a guy that was angry with me because he cut through them and blamed ME for not specifically instructing NOT TO.
Ruined the module and wanted me to compensate him. (musta been a socialist, he wanted one for free)
DO NOT cut through the steel tubes for the mount bolts.
I had an argument years ago with a guy that was angry with me because he cut through them and blamed ME for not specifically instructing NOT TO.
Ruined the module and wanted me to compensate him. (musta been a socialist, he wanted one for free)
#17
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guess what !
if you drive on public roads, expect the firemen to put out your house fire, and send your kids to public schools…..
that’s socialism. Guess that makes you a socialist .
Z
#18
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Location: on the road in NE Oklahoma
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#19
I use a fine tooth hack saw blade and make shallow cuts in the case until I can 'crack' the case open with small wedges.
DO NOT cut through the steel tubes for the mount bolts.
I had an argument years ago with a guy that was angry with me because he cut through them and blamed ME for not specifically instructing NOT TO.
Ruined the module and wanted me to compensate him. (musta been a socialist, he wanted one for free)
DO NOT cut through the steel tubes for the mount bolts.
I had an argument years ago with a guy that was angry with me because he cut through them and blamed ME for not specifically instructing NOT TO.
Ruined the module and wanted me to compensate him. (musta been a socialist, he wanted one for free)
Ken
#20
NOT "socialism". We vote on all of those repeatedly, and how much to spend on them....either through elected representatives or direct initiative or financing bonds.