ABS and traction control error
#21
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jaysjag (06-13-2012)
#22
Thanks for the help Dennis/Gus,what I have can read general codes and clear them, but cannot read abs codes, so I have no way to tell what's wrong. I'm just trying to use the methods that are on the site to narrow it down. The last time I drove it the car it when into safe mode, 10mph. The battery is somewhat larger than the reguler type, so can the auto store test this type. So you think that the wheel sensors are o.k. Also can you feel the pump running if it is.
Do you have a digital volt meter? If so, please let the car rest over night and then measure the battery voltage before starting the car. This will tell us a lot.
What you reported earlier says sensors are OK. But we could have some intermittent connection to one or more of them.
Not sure what sort of pump sound you're listening for ...
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jaysjag (06-13-2012)
#23
#24
The ABS system will begin testing and sending pulses out to identify that all is good. What are your codes and are they the same every time? I had the ABS fail on both me 95 xj6 & 99 xk8 and both times it would flag just after startup and many times in park. I also had the ABS flag caused by a weak battery have you checked it?
#25
As I recall ... the ABS pump should not run at all with the car not in motion. It first kicks in when the car reaches some set speed ... a few miles per hour. Maybe somebody can double check that answer, please.
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jaysjag (06-13-2012)
#26
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jaysjag (06-13-2012)
#27
#28
I'm sorry but I still don't know if you drove this car today, or another car. Either way, that not a good voltage number. It's a very weak number if you did drive this car today.
So with this fresh info, maybe it's best to focus back on the battery as a possible culprit. Can you take it to a shop and have someone confirm the measurement? (If they want to do a load test, couldn't hurt I suppose, but confirming the voltage number is top of the list.)
If the battery voltage is really 12.38 shortly after the car is shut down, I'd try charging it and then if that did not improve things significantly, I'd replace it.
So with this fresh info, maybe it's best to focus back on the battery as a possible culprit. Can you take it to a shop and have someone confirm the measurement? (If they want to do a load test, couldn't hurt I suppose, but confirming the voltage number is top of the list.)
If the battery voltage is really 12.38 shortly after the car is shut down, I'd try charging it and then if that did not improve things significantly, I'd replace it.
#29
No I did not drive the car today. I haven't drove it for awhile(car in limp mode) but have been starting it and letting it run for 10 minutes or so each day while I check things out. I'll do that and put it on a charger for a few hours and check the voltage. What would you say is a good # on the battery @ charge.
#30
#31
OK, so FWIW here are my somewhat disorganized thoughts about your situation.
Car in Limp Mode: I did not catch this before your most recent post. This changes everything, and such being the case, I would put ABS issues on hold for now. Bigger fish to fry. I don't have the knowledge to advise you on addressing the Limp Mode condition.
It's not a good idea to run the car for a few minutes each day. When you do start it, it should be allowed to get nice and warm. You'll also need to keep charging the battery manually if you don't run long enough for the car to charge it.
Battery: once fully charged it should hold at least 12.4 V or so overnight, given Houston temperatures. Something over 12.5 V would be best. The way I get to these numbers is shown here.
ABS: I would table this for now. It may resolve itself when the limp mode thing is fixed but, IAC, may be more difficult to solve while in limp mode.
Sorry I can't be of more help.
Car in Limp Mode: I did not catch this before your most recent post. This changes everything, and such being the case, I would put ABS issues on hold for now. Bigger fish to fry. I don't have the knowledge to advise you on addressing the Limp Mode condition.
It's not a good idea to run the car for a few minutes each day. When you do start it, it should be allowed to get nice and warm. You'll also need to keep charging the battery manually if you don't run long enough for the car to charge it.
Battery: once fully charged it should hold at least 12.4 V or so overnight, given Houston temperatures. Something over 12.5 V would be best. The way I get to these numbers is shown here.
ABS: I would table this for now. It may resolve itself when the limp mode thing is fixed but, IAC, may be more difficult to solve while in limp mode.
Sorry I can't be of more help.
Last edited by Dennis07; 06-14-2012 at 07:54 AM.
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jaysjag (06-14-2012)
#32
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jaysjag (06-16-2012)
#33
RJ that turned out to a non issue, thanks for asking. Good news Dennis/Gus is that my abs and limp mode has cleared ??? knock on wood. Drove the car today after having the battery checked and charged and no limp mode, after a few miles I used the reader to clear the abs it never came back, will check tomarrow, keep your fingers crossed that it's not a lose wire somewhere. Thanks for all your help. I've got another issue now, but I will start another post.
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