Adamesh stage 1
#1
#2
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I have the stage 1 and stage 2 from Adamesha nd yes it does drone but I think that is simply because there are no back boxes. If I just had the stage 2 and kept the original back boxes I wouldn't think there would be a drone anymore. But it will be interesting to listen to others input. The optimal exhaust setup would probably be the Stage 2 and an X-pipe center box delete but keep the OEM silencers at the back or a modified version as long as it keeps silencers at the back. Cruising at 60mph there is a drone around 1500rpm but if you drop it into 5th the drone goes away around 2000rpm but comes back again when approaching 3000rpm or so. I have found though if you are on the throttle the drone isn't such a big deal because it doesn't stay in taht reve range for long.
You could get the Stage 1 and Stage 2 and then cut the Stage 1 and install a silencer of some description but I think the best setup would probably be a Stage 2 and an X-pipe to remove the center silencer and then keep the OEM back silencers btu I would be interested to listen to others opinions on the matter.
You could get the Stage 1 and Stage 2 and then cut the Stage 1 and install a silencer of some description but I think the best setup would probably be a Stage 2 and an X-pipe to remove the center silencer and then keep the OEM back silencers btu I would be interested to listen to others opinions on the matter.
Last edited by Kuddlesworth; 05-03-2023 at 05:22 AM.
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#3
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I also have Adamesh Stage 1 and 2. I agree with Kuddlesworth that there is a drone when held at certain revs.
A few things to check: Your car is a Convertible so may have Harmonic Dampers which are weights fitted above the back-boxes to help dissipate annoying frequencies? Some people remove them, some never had them, others keep them. Their presence may increase or reduce drone noise.
Also, there are 'Pressure vents' each side of the Trunk floor. These vents enable air and pressure to exit from the interior. They have rubber flaps that act like a valve to reduce noise and water coming in from outside. Some of these flaps fatigue or no longer function (mine were held open by accumulated dirt). Ensure these flaps are clean and operate because they do reduce drone/noise reaching the cabin (but this is perhaps more noticeable in a Coupe).
Watch this vid to better understand Damper and Vent location.
A few things to check: Your car is a Convertible so may have Harmonic Dampers which are weights fitted above the back-boxes to help dissipate annoying frequencies? Some people remove them, some never had them, others keep them. Their presence may increase or reduce drone noise.
Also, there are 'Pressure vents' each side of the Trunk floor. These vents enable air and pressure to exit from the interior. They have rubber flaps that act like a valve to reduce noise and water coming in from outside. Some of these flaps fatigue or no longer function (mine were held open by accumulated dirt). Ensure these flaps are clean and operate because they do reduce drone/noise reaching the cabin (but this is perhaps more noticeable in a Coupe).
Watch this vid to better understand Damper and Vent location.
Last edited by PKWise; 05-03-2023 at 03:16 PM.
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Rishi (05-04-2023)
#4
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One of my vents is missing and the other one doesn't function great either. I plan on getting them welded up at some point I think or changing the design because I really do not like them. Whenever I go into the rear wheel arches there they are filled with water and dirt even ont he side where the rubber flap is still present. No wander why these cars rust there so much. I've seen someone else on the forum do a similar thing, he used a hose to keep a vent there and sealed around it.
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Rishi (05-04-2023)
#5
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Kuddlesworth,
I hear you, but you can't weld the vents shut if you have a Coupe !
When you shut or slam the door, it causes cabin over-pressure and this escapes out the vents.
If you weld them shut, then you risk hurting passengers ear drums. and in extreme cases, the over-pressure in a Coupe can push glass outwards....
I hear you, but you can't weld the vents shut if you have a Coupe !
When you shut or slam the door, it causes cabin over-pressure and this escapes out the vents.
If you weld them shut, then you risk hurting passengers ear drums. and in extreme cases, the over-pressure in a Coupe can push glass outwards....
#6
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Kuddlesworth,
I hear you, but you can't weld the vents shut if you have a Coupe !
When you shut or slam the door, it causes cabin over-pressure and this escapes out the vents.
If you weld them shut, then you risk hurting passengers ear drums. and in extreme cases, the over-pressure in a Coupe can push glass outwards....
I hear you, but you can't weld the vents shut if you have a Coupe !
When you shut or slam the door, it causes cabin over-pressure and this escapes out the vents.
If you weld them shut, then you risk hurting passengers ear drums. and in extreme cases, the over-pressure in a Coupe can push glass outwards....
#7
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I can confirm the effectiveness of what amounts to a stage 2 plus X-pipe in the forward silencer location. Even with stock back boxes it drones a slight amount when maintaining speed slightly uphill, but it is nowhere near the annoyance of what a stage 1 exhaust would be. For reference, my car came from the previous owner with a stage 1-like exhaust that was very tiresome to listen to while cruising on the highway, and my final revisions have made it much more tolerable. I've described the full story in this thread here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-drone-236969/
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#8
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I designed an exhaust for my old XK8. I would skip buying stage 2 altogether. If you look at the difference between X pipe and H pipe, X has a 1-2 increase in HP and has a raspy racey sound. H pipes sound like older muscle cars with a deep but refined growl. A very attractive and toned-down growl on my XK8. The cheapest route would be taking it to an exhaust shop and having them cut from right after the cats to right after the two mid boxes (before the start of the over axle pipes). It's easy to access and weld. Just two straight pipes in replacement and an H connector right before the large silencer would be.
Quiet at idle and while driving normally. Absolutely no drone. Turn on sport mode and you will hear a nice growl, nothing super loud but very deep and attractive. Playing with the J gate and revving it up to 1750 rpms and releasing the throttle and it will crackle and pop. If you go to my profile, I have a post of the exhaust with a link to several videos. Cheaper than adamesh and imo sounds better without any pesky drone. Hope this helps!
Quiet at idle and while driving normally. Absolutely no drone. Turn on sport mode and you will hear a nice growl, nothing super loud but very deep and attractive. Playing with the J gate and revving it up to 1750 rpms and releasing the throttle and it will crackle and pop. If you go to my profile, I have a post of the exhaust with a link to several videos. Cheaper than adamesh and imo sounds better without any pesky drone. Hope this helps!
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dfbender (08-25-2023)
#10
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I have the stage 1 and stage 2 from Adamesha nd yes it does drone but I think that is simply because there are no back boxes. If I just had the stage 2 and kept the original back boxes I wouldn't think there would be a drone anymore. But it will be interesting to listen to others input. The optimal exhaust setup would probably be the Stage 2 and an X-pipe center box delete but keep the OEM silencers at the back or a modified version as long as it keeps silencers at the back. Cruising at 60mph there is a drone around 1500rpm but if you drop it into 5th the drone goes away around 2000rpm but comes back again when approaching 3000rpm or so. I have found though if you are on the throttle the drone isn't such a big deal because it doesn't stay in taht reve range for long.
You could get the Stage 1 and Stage 2 and then cut the Stage 1 and install a silencer of some description but I think the best setup would probably be a Stage 2 and an X-pipe to remove the center silencer and then keep the OEM back silencers btu I would be interested to listen to others opinions on the matter.
You could get the Stage 1 and Stage 2 and then cut the Stage 1 and install a silencer of some description but I think the best setup would probably be a Stage 2 and an X-pipe to remove the center silencer and then keep the OEM back silencers btu I would be interested to listen to others opinions on the matter.
![Smile](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
IMO it's worth it, as it sounds stock during normal driving but gives that extra note when being pushed
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