I have 2002 XKR with adaptive/electronic suspension and brembo brakes with 90,000 miles. Recently replaced rear tires (to match the fronts that p/o put on before selling), excessive wear on inside tires indicated need for alignment. Tire shop was unable to do alignment, suggested take to dealer. Took to dealer, they advised needed new shocks and coil springs front and rear before alignment could be done. ($4600 + tax). I then took to indie with 30+ years experience. He initially thought new shocks and springs were unneeded until he inspected it today. After a thorough inspection he determined that it needed at minimum new shocks, and while we are in there, might as well replace springs. At this time OEM springs are cost prohibitive at about $400 each. I have found aftermarket lowering springs at about $300/set of 4. I'm sure I need to replace the upper shock mounts as well. Ride height on rear appears to still be in factory specs, but the front is about 1" to 1 1/4" low. Lower shock bushings show wear, but are not trashed yet. My indie priced the shocks from a Jag dealer, (slightly cheaper than dealer quote). Local parts store shows two different with adaptive suspension, (with CATS, and without) for about $430 each. How do you tell whether CATS or not?

My main questions are, should I stay with OEM style parts so alignment can be corrected? Is it possible to achieve camber settings using aftermarket lowering springs (1 1/2")? Right now looking at $3000-$4000 to replace shocks, springs and mounts using OEM style parts. Are the benefits of adaptive suspension worth the cost, or would I be better off replacing shocks with standard shocks and disabling the active suspension module?

Any feedback would be appreciated as I attempt to decide which route to go. Thanks in advance.

 

On our cars, camber is determined by ride height. There is no adjustment available (besides factory eccentric bolts for minute changes). So the easy answer is to address the most likely culprit, which is the upper shock mount. They seem to all fail over time/miles. The "consensus" around here is to get the after market mount from Welsh Enterprise ($150?). The Jaguar part is not durable, and other after-market have shown terrible quality, literally melting. Next, "while you are there" is to replace the lower shock joint. There are after market Uro units that are cost effective ($20 EA?), especially as a refurb of these expensive adjustable shocks. For about $200 in parts, you should be able to bring that alignment back on spec. Or, like me, you will go to the shop after these repairs and have the shop tell you the car came back to spec on its own. Ride height is where it's at.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

^^ What he said....

 

I understand that upper and lower struck mounts on the front should help alignment issues. But what are the recommendations for the rear. Camber is out in the rear, but ride height is within tolerance.

 

same thing he mentioned only in the rear, upper spring isolaters like the front material goes away with age and drops the ride height. For the price of 2 cats shocks you can replace all 4 with standard non adapt and unplug the module in the trunk. I have never replaced springs in 21 years and had cars over 200k. On the shocks there is no added labor to replace now when you do moun ts, only added parts costs, later youll pay to do the shock again so soemtimes just best to replace now for that like new ride

 

For the rear, depends on how much it is out by. It is a weird design. There is a lower control arm, and the "upper control arm" is actually the half shaft itself (which normally works in compression). I believe there are (not entirely inexpensive) shims that can be obtained from the dealer. They are meant to fit between the flange on the diff and the half shafts (so some mechanical work is involved). People in the know (i.e. not me) can figure out what change in camber corresponds to a given shim thickness. There are also rules about stacking those shims. Or not stacking. Last, the bolt on the lower control arm is eccentric and can provide adjustments in toe (but that also changes the camber a bit, catch 22).

Others lie me live with small out-of-spec camber in the rear. Just a small bit of excess camber will not necessarily lead to excessive inner-edge tire wear.