Alternator replacement
#21
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
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It may well be very tight. Don't be tempted to use a BFH here.
I used my pivot-type ball joint breaker to retract it:
...just pop a bolt through the bush so the breaker arm has something flat to push on.
Alternatively, you can do it with a long bolt, a few washers and a 1/2" drive socket as a cup if you don't have the above.
I used my pivot-type ball joint breaker to retract it:
...just pop a bolt through the bush so the breaker arm has something flat to push on.
Alternatively, you can do it with a long bolt, a few washers and a 1/2" drive socket as a cup if you don't have the above.
Last edited by michaelh; 06-07-2024 at 11:39 AM.
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Phil m (06-07-2024)
#22
I've removed the Alternator now thanks to Michael's advice.
When attaching the replacement I read somewhere that the lug circled in red below can be retracted is that correct?
I've used WD40, plyers, tapped it with a hammer but it won't move.
The pic it taken from below the car and I have compared the old and replacement alternators to comfirm they are identical.
Thanks
When attaching the replacement I read somewhere that the lug circled in red below can be retracted is that correct?
I've used WD40, plyers, tapped it with a hammer but it won't move.
The pic it taken from below the car and I have compared the old and replacement alternators to comfirm they are identical.
Thanks
#23
I use that long bolt that holds the alternator. Put the bolt in from the rear to the front, put the nut onto the bolt. Hold the bolt end with one wrench, and using a ratcheting combination wrench, crank the nut down. The sleeve will retract until flush with the bracket ear.
It got really tight and then easy to turn, when I turn the ratchet the bolt still moves unless I hold it in place with a spanner so its still biting but it won't lose off and just keeps turning.
Any advice to remove the bolt would be much appreciated?
Annoyingly the sleave has still not retracted either.
#24
Is that a bolt with a nut on the end? In which case I don't understand why you can simply remove the nut and extract the bolt. Or is it a bolt into a threaded bracket, in which case have you stripped the bracket as it's only aluminium so you can't apply too much torque. If it is stripped it should still back out although you might need to gently knock it through from the threaded end.
Richard
Richard
#25
#26
Richard
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Phil m (06-15-2024)
#27
You're on the right track. But you must hold the head of the bolt with one wrench, and turn the nut with the other. This forces the nut against the sleeve and forces the sleeve towards the bolt head, until the sleeve is flush with the bracket. At that point remove the bolt/nut, put the alternator there, and run in the long bolt to support it.
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Phil m (06-15-2024)
#28
#29
What you have to do is force a flat screwdriver into the gap between the nut and the bracket or between the bolt head and the bracket and lever the nut or head outwards whilst turning one end and holding the other. This will force the nut to re-engage with the damaged threads on the bolt. Once it engages with the good threads it should come off.
Richard
#30
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Phil m (06-14-2024)
#31
Richard
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Phil m (06-14-2024)
#33
After a bit of a fight and some shouting I freed the bolt, as you can see from the pic the thread on the bolt was a mess.
I've used a couple of new bolts and nuts to make the insert retract but it's straps the tread every time, I need hand vice small enough to fit in the space or something similar.
I'm hoping someone has a cleaver solution?
thanks
I've used a couple of new bolts and nuts to make the insert retract but it's straps the tread every time, I need hand vice small enough to fit in the space or something similar.
I'm hoping someone has a cleaver solution?
thanks
#34
Your correct Michael there is nothing on the LHS, I thought it would retract internally otherwise there is nowhere for it to move in to?
#35
All you need to do is use a large nut or thick washer/s as a spacer on the LHS before you tighten the bolt. The internal diameter of the hole in the nut or washer/s needs to be a little greater than the external diameter of the bushing/sleeve so that the sleeve can slide into the nut/washer/s.
Richard
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Phil m (06-14-2024)
#37
While you're at it, test fit the alternator. You may have retracted the sleeve sufficiently for the alternator to slide into the bracket.
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Phil m (06-14-2024)
#38
Use the large loose nut / suitable spacer/washers trick I describe above on the LHS and you will see the bushing disappear into the bracket on the RHS.
Richard
#39
I've just found this YouTube video.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...sleeve-266879/
Will give this ago, I've fixed the link now too.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...sleeve-266879/
Will give this ago, I've fixed the link now too.
Last edited by Phil m; 06-15-2024 at 04:42 AM.
#40
I thought I would update this thread to say thanks for all the help and update any future readers.
Using the method in the link above helped me retract the sleave which I think Richard was also explaining, once that problem was overcome I was able to reverse the removal process to put the car back together.
You can probably tell I'm no mechanic but I was able to change an Alternator, in the end.
Using the method in the link above helped me retract the sleave which I think Richard was also explaining, once that problem was overcome I was able to reverse the removal process to put the car back together.
You can probably tell I'm no mechanic but I was able to change an Alternator, in the end.
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Y2KJag (06-15-2024)