I am having issues with my top. I bought the car 3 years ago with a non functioning top. It turned out to be leaking at the rams. I sent the rams to be redone. After installing the rams, the top worked fine until the end of last year. I got caught in a rain storm and tried to raise the top. I forgot I had the cover on. I removed the cover and then raised the top but it would not latch. I had to turn the petcock screw and close the top manually.

Now the top will not open. The rear windows go down but it will not unlatch. If I open the latch manually, the top will still not open.

I can lower the top manually. Then it will raise with the switch, the latch will pop up and grab the top, but will not close. I have to do that manually.

Fluid level is correct and it has Pentosin hydraulic fluid in at as I flushed the whole system when I had the rams redone. The pump is making sound when trying to open the top. It will cycle for about 5 seconds and then stop.

I have done a hard reset a few times and raised and lowered it manually many times with no change. There are no leaks anywhere in the system as I have removed the latch cover to lube it and have checked the rams to be sure they are dry. Any ideas?

 

The roof computer system could be confused. Just open the petcock, open the latch manually and then open the roof completely. Once the roof is open then close the latch in the header manually and then close the petcock. Now the windows and roof are open and the header latch is closed and the petcock is closed do a hard reset on your car. When all done start your can and let it idle for a few moments then operate your roof closed and continue to hold the button until it has completed the operation.

 

Gus - what is a hard reset? How is this done?

 

Battery procedure clear all ecu stuff.

 

Disconnect BOTH battery cables and touch the negative cable to the positive cable.



Not cable to battery posts but cable ends to cable ends.

 

Look at this link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Hi Gus and thanks for the info. I had done a hard reset before but did try it again tonight. Top was opened manually and the latch closed (with the petcock turned counterclockwise. I did the reset of the battery by disconnecting the negative cable and touching it to the positive cable for 30 seconds. I let the car sit for about 30 minutes with the battery disconnected. I then reconnected the ground cable. I started the car and let it run for about 5 minutes while resetting the windows and setting the clock.

I then tried to close to top using console switch (petcock turned fully clockwise). The roof did the same as it has been. When the button was pressed, the latch came up and then to top raised up, the latch grabbed it, then struggled to pull the roof down at the headliner. The roof closed about 90% of the way but did not latch. I had to close the latch manually and then use the switch to close the rear window.

I shut the car off and then restarted it. I tried to open the roof with the switch and got the same response, rear windows go down, pump works for about 5 seconds and no movement from the top.

Very frustrating.

 

Spray the two ram shafts with WD40 and lubricate the shaft and do the same for the latch ram then open the petcock and exercise the roof and latch manually a few times. After that is done open the roof close the latch and lubricate the switch arm that is located where the latch grabs the roof try it again electrically.

Link http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...tchRepair3.jpg

 

I had cleaned and lubed the latch last year when this problem started, but I'll do it again. I didn't think to clean and lube the rams since I had them redone by Top Hydraulics but I will do that also. Just have to wait for a day when it's not raining.

 

I use WD40 because it is a great cleaning and lube agent after it is cleaned and working you can spray with a silicone.

 

How did you make out?

Gus
www.jagrepair.com

 

Cleaned the latch again with WD40 and then white lithium grease. Lubed the rams. Still doesn't work. Now I have to throw a monkey wrench into all of this.

I didn't mention this fact because I thought it might not be relevant at this point, but now I think I may be wrong.

When I bought the car 3 years ago the top was not working. I removed the rear seats to check the rams and found them leaking. I removed the rams and sent them to Top Hydraulics for repair. When I got them back, I reinstalled everything and then filled the pump with fluid. I had a new can of Pentosin sitting there but for some reason I grabbed my can of dot 4 brake fluid and filled the pump. I opened and closed the roof about three times and it worked perfectly. I checked for any leaks and there were none. At that point I happened to look and the fluid can I had poured into the pump and realized it was brake fluid.

I was pretty disappointed in myself for making that kind of mistake and I posted on this site for help as to what to do. I was told to siphon out the fluid in the pump and replace with the correct Pentosin fluid. Operate the roof a few times and repeat the siphon process. I did this three times. The roof worked fine for a year and a half until last fall.

Now I mention this story because in researching what could be wrong with the top, I came upon a post by someone at Top Hydraulics who said brake fluid in the line can make the seals for the latch and rams swell and stop their function. He also said that when they reseal either the rams or the latch, that their seals would not have this problem.

I am beginning the think that the latch seals may have swollen and the rams were not affected because they had be resealed by Top Hydraulics.

What do you think and sorry for the long rambling story.

 

You can send them back to TopHydraulics and have them check out the rams. I just had my latch rebuilt by them, you can send them yours. Also, what about your other hoses, the big pita ones?

 

I left the trunk lid open during a rainstorm. Some kind of module - I think a security module - got wet and died a little later. I seem to recall that that this caused hood closure and latching problems. Hellishly expensive to replace, so I'll try to remember not to do that again.

 

If the rear windows open that is telling me that the ram and header switches are ok. You have a top up and a top down relay have you checked them? If not swap the two relays and give it a try also check your fuses.

 

I'll swap the relays in the morning then give you a call.

 

Hate to state the obvious, but have you checked your fluid levels in the tank?

You know you have to turn a key to release the pressure is it still open? I know you say you have done the petlock bit but are you sure its closed and sending the hydraulics fluid? Try the opposite of what you have been doing.......... you never know.

 

. I have had this system apart so many times I feel like it's my child. I do have the valve in the correct position and I siphoned out the fluid from the pump and put new fluid in a couple of days ago.

Strange happening this morning. I went to try reversing the relays, but decided to try the roof switch first. Well what do you you, the latch worked and the roof opened. I drove a while the upon return I went to close the roof. It closed but the latch did not pull it all the way down. I think there is a misalignment between the window and the roof. On the passenger side I can see the roof rubber hitting square on the window instead of in the channel of the rubber. I don't think the latch has enough power to then close the roof. At that point, the whole system gets confused and stops working correctly.

I am going to remove the door panel and see if I can realign the windows. I won't be able to do this until tomorrow after work.

 

There is an adjuster which moves the top of the door window inboard / outboard and it does not require removing the door panel.

Pull the lens covering the splash light. There's a little clip holding it that you can free by inserting a flat screw driver from below ... you'll get it after a little trial-and-error. You'll see a hole in there, and within the hole is a thingy which accepts a hex key ... can't remember the size. Turning that will adjust the window ... again, can't remember which direction of rotation moves the window which way.

Don't twist too hard if you feel resistance; should not require a lot of force to do the adjustment.

 

When the roof closed is selected the front windows should drop a little first to allow the roof to align without interference of the windows. When the roof is closed the front windows go back up and the rear windows close. I would see if the front windows are programmed and you can check this when the windows are up and you open the door they should drop and when you close the door they should go back up.

Link to window reprogram JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource