I installed the spring pressure modifier for the top hydraulic pump on two cars today after Dennis graciously mailed a couple to me in February(really appreciate it), coinciding with the beginning of the 'crazy times'.

So, these were either at the 'weaker end of the specification' or old cars may not be quite as limber and may need a bit more pressure to reliably raise the roof than they did a while back, much like their owners.

Dennis's instructions have 2/3 turn spring engagement after low pressure valve closure. i needed about 1 turn to make both tops operate reliably in case someone else is doing this with a 20 year old car. Was pretty quick just to 'decant' the fluid, take the tank off, turn the screw the appropriate amount, replace the tank, when the screw needed a positive adjustment.

Thanks again, Dennis.

 

Dale,

Thanks much for the report. Always gratifying to hear about these.

As you said, there is some tolerance in each particular spring's actual stiffness v. the nominal value, so a tweak such as you made is not uncommon. If you have the time and are so inclined you could try lubricating the latch mechanism and top frame pivot points to see if a slightly lower pressure would then work. But no real need; you made only a small adjustment.

By trial and error I adjusted mine to the point where it has just enough pressure to work. This turned out the be on the lower-pressure side of the nominal setting, but not by much. Just busy work probably, but sometimes a little project like that is good therapy (for the owner; not necessarily for the car).

 

Hi Barry,where did you got the manual latch from and how does this all work,
Thanks
Syb