At 90K miles the secondary tensioner on the passenger side failed. The guide ate the chain, which failed. Common enough problem, I know, but since it happened when attempting to start the car I am wondering if there is any way to know if the valvestems are OK short of pulling the head. I replaced the tensioners and chains (all) and the car is running really well. I took it to a mechanic for a compression and visual inspection. Their camera shows no head damage, the compression is good in all cylinders and when they pressure tested them with air, they all held well. Unfortunately my very nervous ear imagines a ticking noise I did not remember coming from that side. I am at a loss how to proceed. With all the tests good, is there any other thing that could be causing the noise? Suggestions anyone. I would hate to go thru the expense of pulling the head just to have them look and say no problem.

 

If your compression check went fine and the car is running smoothly, you did not bend a valve stem.

There are so many different things that can cause a noise it would drive any obsessive people completely crazy.

 

Ticking could come from all the trauma in the cam drive creating a high spot somewhere. Like was said, if the tests are good and its running good, just let it ride and see if it gets worse. More than likely, it will slowly fade.

 

It sounds like you have done all you can to check the valves.
I agree with the suck it and see advice.

 

Valve stem is ok hence the good compression.

But you will have a damaged valve tapped which causes some clearance between the tappet and the cam resulting in the noise.

You can rev up the engi e hoping that more oil pressure will built up making the hydraulic tappet to further extend, if not already at its maximum.

So either find the damaged hydraulic adjusting tappet and replace it or just live with the noise.

 

Thanks for the explination. That sounds logical. Any advice on how to go about finding and replacing the damaged tappet? Also, say I choose to live with the noise for a while, any idea what the potential is to further damage my engine? - Phil

 

a new valve hydraulic valve adjuster/tappet is not too expensive, around 60 USD I guess.
but you have to find out which one it is first. you have to check the valve clearances, it is the one where there is clearance/play underneath the cam when it is not in the lifted position.
Then, if you are lucky it is one of the exhaust side ones, so you can easily lift the camshaft, and replace the tappet.
if it is on the intake side, then you have a problem and you have to take the timing chain off first.

but, it won't cause any significant wear and tear to your camshaft and valves unless you plan to do another 100.000 miles.

 

ehm ...
correct me if I'm wrong, but does this engine have hydraulic valve adjusters/tappets?

I don't think so ...

 

Do you adjust your valve clearance every 10.000 miles?
I don't think so, so yes it has hydraulic valve clearance adjusters/tappets

 

well have a look at the second post here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...g-sound-33961/

also if you look at this: jaguar.telko.ru/AJV8%20engine%205HP24%20transmission.pdf

On Page 11: "Steel shims in the top of the valve lifters enable adjustment of valve clearances."

so, not an expert but seems like no hydraulic valve clearance adjusters/tappets ...

BTW: I'm posting here because right now I really need to find out.

 

The 4.0 V8 has shims to set valve lash. I can't remember any Jaguar engine that had anything but mechanical lifters.

At least the shims are on the top of the tappet with this engine!!!!

Here is a TSB for the V6 engine but the V8 is done the same way if you don't want to remove the cam.

bob gauff

 

Looks like jaguar is using some old fashioned technique often used in diesel engines.
there is a valve tappet, which appears to be solid.

Anyway, to come back to the toppic starter, this tappet could well be damaged in your case.

 

Thanks to all for the information. To update the situation, it has been just under 3K miles now since I replaced tensioners and chains. The noise has not gotten any better, or any worse. Performance has continued to be fantastic, in all power ranges and speeds. I am going to continue to live with it until there is another reason to dive into that side again. Again, thanks for the advise on this, as well as the other threads on replacing chains and convertible hydraulics. This forum -and the readers- are great. Phil