XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

Anyone experienced corrosion here?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 03-06-2011 | 09:35 AM
Frog's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Veteran member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,638
Likes: 169
From: France (UK expat)
Default Anyone experienced corrosion here?

There appears to be the beginnings of corrosion at the front (door mirror level) and rear (roof level) of the rubberised metal trims next to the door seals. Both sides of the car are affected.

Although it's not very serious (yet), I fear will be difficult to repair as the thin rubberised coating cannot be peeled back enough to allow the corrosion to be treated.

Is this a known problem and can it be treated?

Rev, can you do a video?

 
  #2  
Old 03-06-2011 | 09:52 AM
Jaxkr's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 394
Likes: 60
From: Boston Mass
Default

That is not an uncommon problem, to replace them they just pull off.
 
  #3  
Old 03-06-2011 | 10:26 AM
Frog's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Veteran member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,638
Likes: 169
From: France (UK expat)
Default

Originally Posted by Jaxkr
That is not an uncommon problem, to replace them they just pull off.
Any idea of the cost? Seems pretty bad for a car that's barely 5 years old
 
  #4  
Old 03-06-2011 | 10:49 AM
Reverend Sam's Avatar
Veteran Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,114
Likes: 1,263
From: North Carolina
Default

I have zero corrosion on my car, although I don't think I've examined it as closely as you've examined yours. Mine sleeps in a garage, which I'm sure helps.
 
  #5  
Old 03-06-2011 | 12:27 PM
avos's Avatar
Veteran Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 3,616
Likes: 1,068
From: Europe
Default

Actually it seems common, and on more places unfortunately.
 
  #6  
Old 03-06-2011 | 02:42 PM
Frog's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Veteran member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,638
Likes: 169
From: France (UK expat)
Default

As the corroded area is so small (approx. 1cm at each end), I think I'll have a go at removing the strip to see if the rubberised coating can then be peeled back enough for the repair. Bit of a cr@ppy design, if you ask me...
 
  #7  
Old 03-06-2011 | 09:27 PM
Mish_Mish's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 883
Likes: 172
From: Columbus, OH
Default

I found true corrosion on mine. Driver side floor board has hole through the floor panel and right side was getting ready to go through.
Luckily I have all the welding tools and skill I need, after working on my 62 Mark2. I will post some pictures of both locations and how to fix it.
Both places are almost impossible to notice through the rust proofind tar.
 
  #8  
Old 03-07-2011 | 01:30 AM
Danster's Avatar
Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 74
Likes: 2
From: Northridge, CA
Default

Originally Posted by Mish_Mish
I found true corrosion on mine. Driver side floor board has hole through the floor panel and right side was getting ready to go through.
Luckily I have all the welding tools and skill I need, after working on my 62 Mark2. I will post some pictures of both locations and how to fix it.
Both places are almost impossible to notice through the rust proofind tar.
Is this more a problem in areas where it snows or rains a lot? I'm thinking I should have a really good look at the underside of my car. I've never gotten underneath it cause I don't have floor jacks.
 
  #9  
Old 03-07-2011 | 03:49 AM
XKRacer's Avatar
Veteran Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,255
Likes: 580
From: UK
Default

There are a few corrosion areas on XKs that will affect EVERY X100 in time, and all of these points are well documented on the XKEC forum.

The window trim sets bubble under the rubber and the paint flakes off due to poor finishing from factory, there are no longer complete sets available, let alone the price has trippled, assuming you could buy a set they would cost you £1500 ($2250)!
You need to grease your rubber sections with silicone spray to try and prevent water getting between the rubber and aluminium trim, once it does as it is untreated will start to corrode. If it is just the paintwork that is easily fixable.

The floor sections corrode between the floor panel and the strengthening plate, the plate has no use and was only put there for production purposes. I often get XKs with holes big enough to put your fist through, cut them off, waxoyl them up, but they need protecting.

The rear wing just above the rear bumper, inside the boot/trunk area there is a vent, this is there to allow the pressure to escape when closing the lid, these vents are in direct firing line to your rear wheels and in time mud and stones will hold the vents open allowing the well area to fill up with all kinds of garbage which in turn will hold water and your wings will rust from the inside out. This particular rust point is not very well kown as it has taken a long time for it to be noticed, but if you have paint bubbling above the rear bumper I would lay money on it you have a very expensive problem on your hands. Clean the area out and waxoyl it, be careful not to spray the vents.

Name:  IMG_2829.jpg
Views: 322
Size:  143.4 KB

Front footwells

Name:  IMG_2826.jpg
Views: 260
Size:  143.2 KB

Name:  BootVentPosition-1.jpg
Views: 250
Size:  49.5 KB

The pic above is showing you where the vent is located

Name:  IMG_2701.jpg
Views: 244
Size:  71.0 KB


If you are planning on keep your XK for a long time and you live in an area that has wet, cold weather and particularly if road salt is used, you really need to get your P&J treated.
 
The following 2 users liked this post by XKRacer:
Skid Mark (03-07-2011), WhiteXKR (03-07-2011)
  #10  
Old 03-07-2011 | 08:09 AM
Mish_Mish's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 883
Likes: 172
From: Columbus, OH
Default

Originally Posted by XKRacer
There are a few corrosion areas on XKs that will affect EVERY X100 in time, and all of these points are well documented on the XKEC forum.

The window trim sets bubble under the rubber and the paint flakes off due to poor finishing from factory, there are no longer complete sets available, let alone the price has trippled, assuming you could buy a set they would cost you £1500 ($2250)!
You need to grease your rubber sections with silicone spray to try and prevent water getting between the rubber and aluminium trim, once it does as it is untreated will start to corrode. If it is just the paintwork that is easily fixable.

The floor sections corrode between the floor panel and the strengthening plate, the plate has no use and was only put there for production purposes. I often get XKs with holes big enough to put your fist through, cut them off, waxoyl them up, but they need protecting.

The rear wing just above the rear bumper, inside the boot/trunk area there is a vent, this is there to allow the pressure to escape when closing the lid, these vents are in direct firing line to your rear wheels and in time mud and stones will hold the vents open allowing the well area to fill up with all kinds of garbage which in turn will hold water and your wings will rust from the inside out. This particular rust point is not very well kown as it has taken a long time for it to be noticed, but if you have paint bubbling above the rear bumper I would lay money on it you have a very expensive problem on your hands. Clean the area out and waxoyl it, be careful not to spray the vents.



Front footwells





The pic above is showing you where the vent is located




If you are planning on keep your XK for a long time and you live in an area that has wet, cold weather and particularly if road salt is used, you really need to get your P&J treated.

Yes, here is what I have, on a lot smaller scale however.
This is my XJ-S all over again

I planning to separate strengthening plate from the floor board, sand blast area and patch everything nicely.
BTW, my car came from Florida, so this whole "snow and salt" argument does not work with Jaguars
 
  #11  
Old 03-07-2011 | 08:55 AM
test point's Avatar
Veteran Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,390
Likes: 1,112
From: Ellijay
Default

If you live near the coast the salt in the air is maybe worst than Winter road salt as it is year round.
 
  #12  
Old 03-07-2011 | 09:09 AM
Glenn Barickman's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 204
Likes: 53
From: Geneva, IL USA
Default

If you are planning on keep your XK for a long time and you live in an area that has wet, cold weather and particularly if road salt is used, you really need to get your P&J treated


I will probably feel stupid when I find out the answer, but that has never stopped me before. What is "P&J"
 

Last edited by Glenn Barickman; 03-07-2011 at 09:11 AM.
  #13  
Old 03-07-2011 | 10:35 AM
Mish_Mish's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 883
Likes: 172
From: Columbus, OH
Default

Originally Posted by Glenn Barickman
If you are planning on keep your XK for a long time and you live in an area that has wet, cold weather and particularly if road salt is used, you really need to get your P&J treated


I will probably feel stupid when I find out the answer, but that has never stopped me before. What is "P&J"
Same here, I was thinking it meant Punjab, or Peanut butter & Jelly perhaps?
 
  #14  
Old 03-07-2011 | 04:45 PM
Fraser Mitchell's Avatar
Veteran Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 9,434
Likes: 2,469
From: Crewe, England
Default

Pride and Joy

Looking at those pictures, I can see the Pride bit wilting and the Joy turning to chagrin
 
  #15  
Old 03-07-2011 | 07:21 PM
Mish_Mish's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 883
Likes: 172
From: Columbus, OH
Default

G-d, this "Top Gear" grade of English is a bit too much for me
I'll just stick to likin' them British cars and speakin' redneck, as my second language

P.S. my Jaguars are my P&J, especially the 62 MK2
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
max224
XK8 / XKR ( X100 )
8
06-21-2024 01:17 PM
Marka
S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 ( X200 )
22
09-11-2016 01:09 AM
Seth
XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 )
3
11-01-2015 01:17 PM
workworkwork
XJS ( X27 )
46
10-23-2015 11:26 AM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:10 PM.