Anyone experienced corrosion here?
#1
Anyone experienced corrosion here?
There appears to be the beginnings of corrosion at the front (door mirror level) and rear (roof level) of the rubberised metal trims next to the door seals. Both sides of the car are affected.
Although it's not very serious (yet), I fear will be difficult to repair as the thin rubberised coating cannot be peeled back enough to allow the corrosion to be treated.
Is this a known problem and can it be treated?
Rev, can you do a video?
Although it's not very serious (yet), I fear will be difficult to repair as the thin rubberised coating cannot be peeled back enough to allow the corrosion to be treated.
Is this a known problem and can it be treated?
Rev, can you do a video?
#3
#6
#7
I found true corrosion on mine. Driver side floor board has hole through the floor panel and right side was getting ready to go through.
Luckily I have all the welding tools and skill I need, after working on my 62 Mark2. I will post some pictures of both locations and how to fix it.
Both places are almost impossible to notice through the rust proofind tar.
Luckily I have all the welding tools and skill I need, after working on my 62 Mark2. I will post some pictures of both locations and how to fix it.
Both places are almost impossible to notice through the rust proofind tar.
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#8
I found true corrosion on mine. Driver side floor board has hole through the floor panel and right side was getting ready to go through.
Luckily I have all the welding tools and skill I need, after working on my 62 Mark2. I will post some pictures of both locations and how to fix it.
Both places are almost impossible to notice through the rust proofind tar.
Luckily I have all the welding tools and skill I need, after working on my 62 Mark2. I will post some pictures of both locations and how to fix it.
Both places are almost impossible to notice through the rust proofind tar.
#9
There are a few corrosion areas on XKs that will affect EVERY X100 in time, and all of these points are well documented on the XKEC forum.
The window trim sets bubble under the rubber and the paint flakes off due to poor finishing from factory, there are no longer complete sets available, let alone the price has trippled, assuming you could buy a set they would cost you £1500 ($2250)!
You need to grease your rubber sections with silicone spray to try and prevent water getting between the rubber and aluminium trim, once it does as it is untreated will start to corrode. If it is just the paintwork that is easily fixable.
The floor sections corrode between the floor panel and the strengthening plate, the plate has no use and was only put there for production purposes. I often get XKs with holes big enough to put your fist through, cut them off, waxoyl them up, but they need protecting.
The rear wing just above the rear bumper, inside the boot/trunk area there is a vent, this is there to allow the pressure to escape when closing the lid, these vents are in direct firing line to your rear wheels and in time mud and stones will hold the vents open allowing the well area to fill up with all kinds of garbage which in turn will hold water and your wings will rust from the inside out. This particular rust point is not very well kown as it has taken a long time for it to be noticed, but if you have paint bubbling above the rear bumper I would lay money on it you have a very expensive problem on your hands. Clean the area out and waxoyl it, be careful not to spray the vents.
Front footwells
The pic above is showing you where the vent is located
If you are planning on keep your XK for a long time and you live in an area that has wet, cold weather and particularly if road salt is used, you really need to get your P&J treated.
The window trim sets bubble under the rubber and the paint flakes off due to poor finishing from factory, there are no longer complete sets available, let alone the price has trippled, assuming you could buy a set they would cost you £1500 ($2250)!
You need to grease your rubber sections with silicone spray to try and prevent water getting between the rubber and aluminium trim, once it does as it is untreated will start to corrode. If it is just the paintwork that is easily fixable.
The floor sections corrode between the floor panel and the strengthening plate, the plate has no use and was only put there for production purposes. I often get XKs with holes big enough to put your fist through, cut them off, waxoyl them up, but they need protecting.
The rear wing just above the rear bumper, inside the boot/trunk area there is a vent, this is there to allow the pressure to escape when closing the lid, these vents are in direct firing line to your rear wheels and in time mud and stones will hold the vents open allowing the well area to fill up with all kinds of garbage which in turn will hold water and your wings will rust from the inside out. This particular rust point is not very well kown as it has taken a long time for it to be noticed, but if you have paint bubbling above the rear bumper I would lay money on it you have a very expensive problem on your hands. Clean the area out and waxoyl it, be careful not to spray the vents.
Front footwells
The pic above is showing you where the vent is located
If you are planning on keep your XK for a long time and you live in an area that has wet, cold weather and particularly if road salt is used, you really need to get your P&J treated.
#10
There are a few corrosion areas on XKs that will affect EVERY X100 in time, and all of these points are well documented on the XKEC forum.
The window trim sets bubble under the rubber and the paint flakes off due to poor finishing from factory, there are no longer complete sets available, let alone the price has trippled, assuming you could buy a set they would cost you £1500 ($2250)!
You need to grease your rubber sections with silicone spray to try and prevent water getting between the rubber and aluminium trim, once it does as it is untreated will start to corrode. If it is just the paintwork that is easily fixable.
The floor sections corrode between the floor panel and the strengthening plate, the plate has no use and was only put there for production purposes. I often get XKs with holes big enough to put your fist through, cut them off, waxoyl them up, but they need protecting.
The rear wing just above the rear bumper, inside the boot/trunk area there is a vent, this is there to allow the pressure to escape when closing the lid, these vents are in direct firing line to your rear wheels and in time mud and stones will hold the vents open allowing the well area to fill up with all kinds of garbage which in turn will hold water and your wings will rust from the inside out. This particular rust point is not very well kown as it has taken a long time for it to be noticed, but if you have paint bubbling above the rear bumper I would lay money on it you have a very expensive problem on your hands. Clean the area out and waxoyl it, be careful not to spray the vents.
Front footwells
The pic above is showing you where the vent is located
If you are planning on keep your XK for a long time and you live in an area that has wet, cold weather and particularly if road salt is used, you really need to get your P&J treated.
The window trim sets bubble under the rubber and the paint flakes off due to poor finishing from factory, there are no longer complete sets available, let alone the price has trippled, assuming you could buy a set they would cost you £1500 ($2250)!
You need to grease your rubber sections with silicone spray to try and prevent water getting between the rubber and aluminium trim, once it does as it is untreated will start to corrode. If it is just the paintwork that is easily fixable.
The floor sections corrode between the floor panel and the strengthening plate, the plate has no use and was only put there for production purposes. I often get XKs with holes big enough to put your fist through, cut them off, waxoyl them up, but they need protecting.
The rear wing just above the rear bumper, inside the boot/trunk area there is a vent, this is there to allow the pressure to escape when closing the lid, these vents are in direct firing line to your rear wheels and in time mud and stones will hold the vents open allowing the well area to fill up with all kinds of garbage which in turn will hold water and your wings will rust from the inside out. This particular rust point is not very well kown as it has taken a long time for it to be noticed, but if you have paint bubbling above the rear bumper I would lay money on it you have a very expensive problem on your hands. Clean the area out and waxoyl it, be careful not to spray the vents.
Front footwells
The pic above is showing you where the vent is located
If you are planning on keep your XK for a long time and you live in an area that has wet, cold weather and particularly if road salt is used, you really need to get your P&J treated.
Yes, here is what I have, on a lot smaller scale however.
This is my XJ-S all over again
I planning to separate strengthening plate from the floor board, sand blast area and patch everything nicely.
BTW, my car came from Florida, so this whole "snow and salt" argument does not work with Jaguars
#12
If you are planning on keep your XK for a long time and you live in an area that has wet, cold weather and particularly if road salt is used, you really need to get your P&J treated
I will probably feel stupid when I find out the answer, but that has never stopped me before. What is "P&J"
I will probably feel stupid when I find out the answer, but that has never stopped me before. What is "P&J"
Last edited by Glenn Barickman; 03-07-2011 at 09:11 AM.
#13
If you are planning on keep your XK for a long time and you live in an area that has wet, cold weather and particularly if road salt is used, you really need to get your P&J treated
I will probably feel stupid when I find out the answer, but that has never stopped me before. What is "P&J"
I will probably feel stupid when I find out the answer, but that has never stopped me before. What is "P&J"
#15
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