Battery Died Now Wont Start
#1
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I drove the car 2 weeks ago and had a low coolant alarm on a steep downhill, it went away a few minutes later when i leveled out.
Then yesterday the car wouldn't start as the battery was near dead and the car would barely turn over. Put a charger on it last night. This morning the car turns over but will not start. I have code 1111 on my scan.
Tried resetting the car by bringing the negative to the positive terminal. No Help. Checked the fuses in the Trunk and RH Engine compartment all well.
I have put the car back on charge and am hoping for the best.
Any ideas as to the best steps to diagnose?
Then yesterday the car wouldn't start as the battery was near dead and the car would barely turn over. Put a charger on it last night. This morning the car turns over but will not start. I have code 1111 on my scan.
Tried resetting the car by bringing the negative to the positive terminal. No Help. Checked the fuses in the Trunk and RH Engine compartment all well.
I have put the car back on charge and am hoping for the best.
Any ideas as to the best steps to diagnose?
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#2
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Locate the schrader valve on the fuel injector rail. Crank the engine, then with a rag handy depress the valve with the tip of a small screwdriver and see if you have a strong squirt of fuel. If there is little or no fuel, your fuel pump may have failed.
If you have fuel, then search here for 'cylinder wash' and follow the procedure to add a bit of oil in each cylinder.
If you have fuel, then search here for 'cylinder wash' and follow the procedure to add a bit of oil in each cylinder.
#3
#4
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Fuse #7 will not show power unless the engine is running, except for a few seconds while cranking, so this is normal.
I suggest you first have your battery load tested. Alternatively, have someone crank the engine while you read the voltage across the battery with a multimeter. If the battery cannot provide near 12 volts while cranking you should replace it.
If with a known good battery you still have no fuel pressure, your fuel pump is probably done.
I suggest you first have your battery load tested. Alternatively, have someone crank the engine while you read the voltage across the battery with a multimeter. If the battery cannot provide near 12 volts while cranking you should replace it.
If with a known good battery you still have no fuel pressure, your fuel pump is probably done.
#6
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Fuel pump is in the tank. The tank is between the rear seats and the back of the trunk. On a convertible access is by sliding the tank into the trunk. The hardest part is releasing the two fuel lines under the car. See http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...eplacement.pdf
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Philagot (11-16-2013)
#7
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#9
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This is cheaper than OEM and generally has gotten good reports: Welsh Enterprises, Inc - Jaguar XK8 / XKR (97-06) Fuel/Emissions Fuel Tank, Fuel Delivery & Return Parts - Fuel Pump
Also, while the pump is out be sure to check electrical continuity through the molded black plastic box in line wth the pump power feed wires inside the tank. This is an electrical noise filter and sometimes fails with the pump due to over-current.
Also, while the pump is out be sure to check electrical continuity through the molded black plastic box in line wth the pump power feed wires inside the tank. This is an electrical noise filter and sometimes fails with the pump due to over-current.
Last edited by WhiteXKR; 11-16-2013 at 01:07 PM.
#10
#11
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If you do want to pre-purchase a replacement, you need to buy the fuel pump link lead (Jaguar part number LJC3360AA ): Jaguar Parts - Direct JPLV Porsche Parts.com
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RJ237 (11-16-2013)
#12
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