Battery disconnect and multiple resets?
#1
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I've heard there are a plethora of resets from, idle, transmission, windows...that must be manually reset after the battery is disconnected. Not to mention possibly the radio and I have no code or original manuals.
Is there a resource I can go to for all the reset instructions following battery disconnect and any way to positively know if I need a radio code and how to get it?
thank you
Is there a resource I can go to for all the reset instructions following battery disconnect and any way to positively know if I need a radio code and how to get it?
thank you
#2
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https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ect-faq-74146/
2. as you are in the US (your IP Address shows somewhere in the middle of Lake Michigan), you will be very unlucky if you have a coded radio. The only way to find out is to power it down!
Graham
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Markmbaha1 (11-04-2021)
#3
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1. read the FAQ's ........ it's in this thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ect-faq-74146/
2. as you are in the US (your IP Address shows somewhere in the middle of Lake Michigan), you will be very unlucky if you have a coded radio. The only way to find out is to power it down!
Graham
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ect-faq-74146/
2. as you are in the US (your IP Address shows somewhere in the middle of Lake Michigan), you will be very unlucky if you have a coded radio. The only way to find out is to power it down!
Graham
Thank you very much!!!
#4
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If you're not having any odd issues, there's no particular need for a hard reset.
You will need to reset the windows, possibly the throttle limits (I never remember). Any dealership should be able to supply you with the radio code although, as GGG notes, most US cars don't need one.
I would *always* disconnect the battery before unplugging/reconnecting any modules. It's just cheap insurance. Beware if you're due any smog testing that this could cause a fail.
You will need to reset the windows, possibly the throttle limits (I never remember). Any dealership should be able to supply you with the radio code although, as GGG notes, most US cars don't need one.
I would *always* disconnect the battery before unplugging/reconnecting any modules. It's just cheap insurance. Beware if you're due any smog testing that this could cause a fail.
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#5
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If you're not having any odd issues, there's no particular need for a hard reset.
You will need to reset the windows, possibly the throttle limits (I never remember). Any dealership should be able to supply you with the radio code although, as GGG notes, most US cars don't need one.
I would *always* disconnect the battery before unplugging/reconnecting any modules. It's just cheap insurance. Beware if you're due any smog testing that this could cause a fail.
You will need to reset the windows, possibly the throttle limits (I never remember). Any dealership should be able to supply you with the radio code although, as GGG notes, most US cars don't need one.
I would *always* disconnect the battery before unplugging/reconnecting any modules. It's just cheap insurance. Beware if you're due any smog testing that this could cause a fail.
Thanks again.
#6
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Markmbaha1 (11-05-2021)
#7
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#8
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Ideas about the need for a hard reset, and when...
It is a good question.
I hope folks WILL correct my ideas where need be.
The reset will bring major systems in the car back to there factory default settings. Things to do with the throttle body, the emissions systems, stored info like fuel trims for instance and maybe things like info from the 4 O2 sensors and how all of that info comes together to (over time) to produce a right running car. In my understanding, the ECU/M and other major components in the car will adapt, accommodate and adjust themselves for the slow and inevitable degrade of modules, sensors, etc...and in changes that occur in all of these systems working together.
So, for instance, I had a MAF that was bad, and I later learned there were other problems. So, over time, the car had gotten very used to (over time) increasingly bad readings from the MAF and O2 sensors in this case. So, I swapped them out. On completing the job (with battery disconnected), so I would not shock the ECU/M on restart with all these new healthy readings from new sensors, I performed a hard reset, clipping the negative to the positive cable in the boot for several minutes. Then restarted the car. That's just me.
More than once I did things like this WITHOUT the hard reset and paid for in the form of inconvenience, confusion and long rambling posts asking for help, lololol...
I'm sure other folks have thoughts on the hard reset, and I'm sure it's possible that some of my explanation might not be right on point, so in that I WOULD LOVE it if others would come in and clear up my cloudy explanations.
Also, and this is just me, after disconnecting the battery and clipping the NEG on the POS I (and this is just me) turn the key to the RUN position in the ignition and turn it to OFF just before I reconnect the cables to their proper posts. But that's just me.
It is a good question.
I hope folks WILL correct my ideas where need be.
The reset will bring major systems in the car back to there factory default settings. Things to do with the throttle body, the emissions systems, stored info like fuel trims for instance and maybe things like info from the 4 O2 sensors and how all of that info comes together to (over time) to produce a right running car. In my understanding, the ECU/M and other major components in the car will adapt, accommodate and adjust themselves for the slow and inevitable degrade of modules, sensors, etc...and in changes that occur in all of these systems working together.
So, for instance, I had a MAF that was bad, and I later learned there were other problems. So, over time, the car had gotten very used to (over time) increasingly bad readings from the MAF and O2 sensors in this case. So, I swapped them out. On completing the job (with battery disconnected), so I would not shock the ECU/M on restart with all these new healthy readings from new sensors, I performed a hard reset, clipping the negative to the positive cable in the boot for several minutes. Then restarted the car. That's just me.
More than once I did things like this WITHOUT the hard reset and paid for in the form of inconvenience, confusion and long rambling posts asking for help, lololol...
I'm sure other folks have thoughts on the hard reset, and I'm sure it's possible that some of my explanation might not be right on point, so in that I WOULD LOVE it if others would come in and clear up my cloudy explanations.
Also, and this is just me, after disconnecting the battery and clipping the NEG on the POS I (and this is just me) turn the key to the RUN position in the ignition and turn it to OFF just before I reconnect the cables to their proper posts. But that's just me.
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Markmbaha1 (11-09-2021)
#9
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ideas about the need for a hard reset, and when...
It is a good question.
I hope folks WILL correct my ideas where need be.
The reset will bring major systems in the car back to there factory default settings. Things to do with the throttle body, the emissions systems, stored info like fuel trims for instance and maybe things like info from the 4 O2 sensors and how all of that info comes together to (over time) to produce a right running car. In my understanding, the ECU/M and other major components in the car will adapt, accommodate and adjust themselves for the slow and inevitable degrade of modules, sensors, etc...and in changes that occur in all of these systems working together.
So, for instance, I had a MAF that was bad, and I later learned there were other problems. So, over time, the car had gotten very used to (over time) increasingly bad readings from the MAF and O2 sensors in this case. So, I swapped them out. On completing the job (with battery disconnected), so I would not shock the ECU/M on restart with all these new healthy readings from new sensors, I performed a hard reset, clipping the negative to the positive cable in the boot for several minutes. Then restarted the car. That's just me.
More than once I did things like this WITHOUT the hard reset and paid for in the form of inconvenience, confusion and long rambling posts asking for help, lololol...
I'm sure other folks have thoughts on the hard reset, and I'm sure it's possible that some of my explanation might not be right on point, so in that I WOULD LOVE it if others would come in and clear up my cloudy explanations.
Also, and this is just me, after disconnecting the battery and clipping the NEG on the POS I (and this is just me) turn the key to the RUN position in the ignition and turn it to OFF just before I reconnect the cables to their proper posts. But that's just me.
It is a good question.
I hope folks WILL correct my ideas where need be.
The reset will bring major systems in the car back to there factory default settings. Things to do with the throttle body, the emissions systems, stored info like fuel trims for instance and maybe things like info from the 4 O2 sensors and how all of that info comes together to (over time) to produce a right running car. In my understanding, the ECU/M and other major components in the car will adapt, accommodate and adjust themselves for the slow and inevitable degrade of modules, sensors, etc...and in changes that occur in all of these systems working together.
So, for instance, I had a MAF that was bad, and I later learned there were other problems. So, over time, the car had gotten very used to (over time) increasingly bad readings from the MAF and O2 sensors in this case. So, I swapped them out. On completing the job (with battery disconnected), so I would not shock the ECU/M on restart with all these new healthy readings from new sensors, I performed a hard reset, clipping the negative to the positive cable in the boot for several minutes. Then restarted the car. That's just me.
More than once I did things like this WITHOUT the hard reset and paid for in the form of inconvenience, confusion and long rambling posts asking for help, lololol...
I'm sure other folks have thoughts on the hard reset, and I'm sure it's possible that some of my explanation might not be right on point, so in that I WOULD LOVE it if others would come in and clear up my cloudy explanations.
Also, and this is just me, after disconnecting the battery and clipping the NEG on the POS I (and this is just me) turn the key to the RUN position in the ignition and turn it to OFF just before I reconnect the cables to their proper posts. But that's just me.
Thank you
#10
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A hard reset is always a good idea (USA cars). Electronic systems become corrupted, new parts such as MAF sensors need to start with a clean slate in order to give the proper performance. Etc etc.
resetting the windows and the radio volume and reselecting the CD mode is a very small inconvenience. The trip odometer also reset. No big deal.
Z
resetting the windows and the radio volume and reselecting the CD mode is a very small inconvenience. The trip odometer also reset. No big deal.
Z
#11
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Bought mine in June this year and had a few issues, then as I fixed one thing others stopped working. So I bit the bullet and did the full reset. This brought back to life my heated front seats, automatic rain sensor, wing mirror fold back and dip (but not mirror movement fully out), I keep forgetting to check the passenger seat back movement
Needed to code the radio, and went through the full sequence of setting throttle, idle etc
Unfortunately it failed the MOT the next day so haven't really had a chance to take it for a spin to confirm throttle position and performance - hopefully getting it back tomorrow
Needed to code the radio, and went through the full sequence of setting throttle, idle etc
Unfortunately it failed the MOT the next day so haven't really had a chance to take it for a spin to confirm throttle position and performance - hopefully getting it back tomorrow
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#12
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Last edited by GGG; 11-10-2021 at 08:25 AM. Reason: Insert QUOTE codes
#13
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