Battery removal and charging
#1
Battery removal and charging
I have read the FAQ's, but wanted to double check if there is anything special I have to do to take the battery out, charge it and reinstall. My XK8 cranks but doesn't start - a sudden affliction it developed. I am working through the list of troubleshooting tips starting with the battery!
Thanks
Kal
Thanks
Kal
#2
I have read the FAQ's, but wanted to double check if there is anything special I have to do to take the battery out, charge it and reinstall. My XK8 cranks but doesn't start - a sudden affliction it developed. I am working through the list of troubleshooting tips starting with the battery!
Thanks
Kal
Thanks
Kal
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kvmentor (11-17-2011)
#3
"If it cranks then it's not your battery." . . . provided that cranking load does not take battery voltage below 10v.
The battery can be safely charged in place but I like to remove a battery to charge it also. The only suggestions are the standard old stuff: Negative cable off first. Negative cable on last. Ensure that the battery vent tube is reinstalled.
Early cars may have been delivered with a radio system code requirement. That was a software option and most US cars came with it disabled.
If no codes, look to fuel pressure. Rev. Sam is an expert on that subject.
The battery can be safely charged in place but I like to remove a battery to charge it also. The only suggestions are the standard old stuff: Negative cable off first. Negative cable on last. Ensure that the battery vent tube is reinstalled.
Early cars may have been delivered with a radio system code requirement. That was a software option and most US cars came with it disabled.
If no codes, look to fuel pressure. Rev. Sam is an expert on that subject.
Last edited by test point; 11-17-2011 at 06:31 PM.
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kvmentor (11-18-2011)
#6
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kvmentor (11-18-2011)
#7
I also had a starting problem recently.
I bought a set of fuel injector gauges @ Harbor Freight Tool on sale for $19. (They're on sale about every other month.) Sure enough, I had no fuel pressure, and my $4 multimeter (another Harbor Freight sale) said the fuse was good. I switched two relays, and still had no fuel pressure.
New fuel pump, sock filter and fuel filter solved the start problem. I'm just thankful the older XK8's used an inexpensive Ford Taurus/Mazda fuel pump (bought @ RockAuto.com for approx. $59).
I bought a set of fuel injector gauges @ Harbor Freight Tool on sale for $19. (They're on sale about every other month.) Sure enough, I had no fuel pressure, and my $4 multimeter (another Harbor Freight sale) said the fuse was good. I switched two relays, and still had no fuel pressure.
New fuel pump, sock filter and fuel filter solved the start problem. I'm just thankful the older XK8's used an inexpensive Ford Taurus/Mazda fuel pump (bought @ RockAuto.com for approx. $59).
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kvmentor (11-18-2011)
Trending Topics
#8
Can you give a little history up to the time it failed to start? Do you know if you have fuel and spark? When you attempt to start the car now does it sound a little different?
I have read the FAQ's, but wanted to double check if there is anything special I have to do to take the battery out, charge it and reinstall. My XK8 cranks but doesn't start - a sudden affliction it developed. I am working through the list of troubleshooting tips starting with the battery!
Thanks
Kal
Thanks
Kal
The following users liked this post:
kvmentor (11-18-2011)
#9
Paul - Great schematic - will check pressure.
Gus - The only issue before this happened is I was working on fixing the rear view mirror and had left the key in the on positon in the ignition overnight (i put the tip down). That's why I thought to first recharge the battery - it actually checked in at 580 amps but the shop thought it was a good idea to try to charge it.
My mechanic gave me a couple of ideas:
1) tap the fuel tank with a rubber mallet
2) check the fuel pressure at the Schrader valve - Paul made the same recommendation and so does the PDF under the FAQ
My mechanic said if I bought the fuel pump he would install it (their guide book says 3.6 hours labor). He said this was cheaper than them buying the part.
Will keep you posted
Gus - The only issue before this happened is I was working on fixing the rear view mirror and had left the key in the on positon in the ignition overnight (i put the tip down). That's why I thought to first recharge the battery - it actually checked in at 580 amps but the shop thought it was a good idea to try to charge it.
My mechanic gave me a couple of ideas:
1) tap the fuel tank with a rubber mallet
2) check the fuel pressure at the Schrader valve - Paul made the same recommendation and so does the PDF under the FAQ
My mechanic said if I bought the fuel pump he would install it (their guide book says 3.6 hours labor). He said this was cheaper than them buying the part.
Will keep you posted
#11
Leaving the key on overnight would be a problem. Checking the fuel pump or power to it is a good idea and I have a few links that might help. As for striking the tank with a hammer is a new one on me.
Jaguar fuel pressure testing
Jaguar fuel pump replacement xk8
Jaguar fuel pressure testing
Jaguar fuel pump replacement xk8
Last edited by Gus; 11-18-2011 at 02:16 PM. Reason: Spelling
#13
yes - The battery was charged and tested at the shop before and after charging.
I checked the fuse (#7, 20 amp in the trunk) and it is fine - I swapped it just in case and still the same. I removed and reseated the relay just in case there was a contact issue. I have been using Gus's Charlie Bennett PDF and tested the Schrader valve with the key in "on" position - no pressure. There is a whining noise in the area of that fuel nozzle. So the only possibility is the fuel pump - is the whining noise an echo from the fuel pump trying to run?
Thanks for the step by step suggestions!
Kal
I checked the fuse (#7, 20 amp in the trunk) and it is fine - I swapped it just in case and still the same. I removed and reseated the relay just in case there was a contact issue. I have been using Gus's Charlie Bennett PDF and tested the Schrader valve with the key in "on" position - no pressure. There is a whining noise in the area of that fuel nozzle. So the only possibility is the fuel pump - is the whining noise an echo from the fuel pump trying to run?
Thanks for the step by step suggestions!
Kal
#14
Fuel pump
I also had a starting problem recently.
I bought a set of fuel injector gauges @ Harbor Freight Tool on sale for $19. (They're on sale about every other month.) Sure enough, I had no fuel pressure, and my $4 multimeter (another Harbor Freight sale) said the fuse was good. I switched two relays, and still had no fuel pressure.
New fuel pump, sock filter and fuel filter solved the start problem. I'm just thankful the older XK8's used an inexpensive Ford Taurus/Mazda fuel pump (bought @ RockAuto.com for approx. $59).
I bought a set of fuel injector gauges @ Harbor Freight Tool on sale for $19. (They're on sale about every other month.) Sure enough, I had no fuel pressure, and my $4 multimeter (another Harbor Freight sale) said the fuse was good. I switched two relays, and still had no fuel pressure.
New fuel pump, sock filter and fuel filter solved the start problem. I'm just thankful the older XK8's used an inexpensive Ford Taurus/Mazda fuel pump (bought @ RockAuto.com for approx. $59).
#15
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kvmentor (11-18-2011)
#16
Fuel pump
I watched Rev Sam's video and decided that since it involved an extended stay under the car, I would pay to get the job done. For anyone looking for an estimate at a non-dealer shop, here is what I paid (incidentally USAautoparts sells the Denso fuel pump for $139 plus the cost of the strainer).
Fuel Pump - $250
Fuel filter - $31
2 Fuel filter O-rings $17
Fuel pump strainer - $42
Fuel pump to tank seal - $ 54
Fuel pump relay - $29
Fuel pump Labor at $100/hr - $370
Fuel filter labor - $ 50
Total $ 910 plus tax
My shop also charges $120 to check out the problem and $22 shop charge so my total bill was $1030.
So is a third party mechanic a cheaper option? Definitely if he/she works on Jags - my concern was that my regular mechanic could have run into additional problems and would not necessarily have changed the o-rings and the strainer
Fuel Pump - $250
Fuel filter - $31
2 Fuel filter O-rings $17
Fuel pump strainer - $42
Fuel pump to tank seal - $ 54
Fuel pump relay - $29
Fuel pump Labor at $100/hr - $370
Fuel filter labor - $ 50
Total $ 910 plus tax
My shop also charges $120 to check out the problem and $22 shop charge so my total bill was $1030.
So is a third party mechanic a cheaper option? Definitely if he/she works on Jags - my concern was that my regular mechanic could have run into additional problems and would not necessarily have changed the o-rings and the strainer
#17
Over in the XJ realm.....we have guys removing license plate grommets and fishing 'round with long screwdrivers to gain entry....
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