Hello all,

When I start my car on a cold start a belt begins to squeak very loud for about 10 minutes.

I believe it might be the supercharger belt.

Any thoughts?

 

I think you will find it is time to change your belt, or it maybe the idler pulley bearing

 

I have exactly the same model as you right down to the colour. It also had the same cold squealing belt noise when I got it. There is a service action for this that calls for the belt, pulley and arm assembly to be changed.

As a side benefit, most of my supercharger whine/whistle under hard acceleration is now barely audible!

 

I just bought an '01 that had belt squeak at startup for about 5 minutes....the belts were old and needed to be replaced. i spent $400 at the dealer and they are completely quiet now.

 

When I first start mine, I get a faint "chirping" for the first few minutes, I have made the assumption that it is the belt. Does anyone know if there is anyway to tell if it is the belt or the idler pulley bearing?

 

Pulley is pretty cheap, i'd just do both at once and not stress about it. As for a little chirp, mine does this also. New belt, new idler and tensioner, and started after a coolant flush and replaced the upper radiator hose. Think the alternator got some coolant on its pulley n shaft (maybe on its bearing seal?). First startup after was a screachn sound and a little steam/smoke. My luck that will fail next.

 

You can buy stuff at the auto parts store to spray on your belt to make it stickier. It's not a permanent fix, but it will at least keep people from staring at you (and pointing and laughing) until you can get the belt changed.

 

How much a job like this will cost ? I noticed this when its cold outside only. Does it has something to do with the weather ?

 

I just got a quote for ~$900.00 for the dealer to change the belt and tensioner and idler on my 2003 XKR. I`m debating doing the job myself. I saw all the parts on Amazon for ~$450. Don`t really feel like doing it but it would save some $$. Let us know if you do it yourself...I have 41000 miles on my car and no squeal or noise so I don`t have to do it right away...Your car is a 2006 so I don`t think you have to change the tensioner and idler, so having a dealer change the belt alone will run about $200.00....

 

I paid like $50 for the belt, and another $75 for the tensioner from the dealer. The idler pulley on mine - I got a universal one, but surely parts for the XKR on this isn't much more...surely! Oh, and replaced them myself in a couple hours in the garage. Its tight, but can be done...not sure on the XKR if the radiator shroud needs to come up and off.

 

On the XKR, you should remove the electric fan assembly first. A couple of folks have made a special tool to avoid this for belt changes, but otherwise you should remove it.

 

The $900 is for the doubled ribbed belt modification, pretty much the same as over here (£600).
I am not sure Jaguar are even supplying the original belts anymore, the last I heard they were telling everyone had to have the upgrade done instead of a few bux to change to a new belt.
From what I can remember it meant fitting a new power steering bracket also. I would simply get an after market belt rather than go to a dealer and get me ***** ripped off!

 

Do anyone have any DIY instructions ?

 

first of all..if you have sc car its not poss to get the sc belf off without removing the fan ***..take top hose off..two nuts and washers each side of the fan ***..one per side..remove fan connectors..pipe at bottom of *** in clip..fan wires clipped into fan ***..two people to do this next bit to make it easy..lift fan *** up and remove..next take pressure of sc pully with half inch driver and remove sc belt from car..refit top hose.. start car..if sc belt or pully fault no screeming..if still screeming it main belt and pully..
easy to replace these.reassemble job done..im just ordinary joe bloggs and i can do this job in about an hour so.. if your handy with spanner go for it..if anyone tells you that you dont need to take the fan *** out..there wrong ..

 

You can remove the both belts on the SC if you want to fabricate a tool without removing the fan or anything else. Here's photos of the tool I made. Takes about ten minutes to change both belts out. Took about 20 minutes to fab the tool.
Sorry Dennis I'm not wrong about this.

 

the space between the fan *** and the sc belt tentioner on my car is about one quarter of an inch .. I have the updated double sided belt kit so even your tool would not go into the space..most ordinary people dont possess welding equipment to manifacture there own tools so have to use what they have to hand.pictures to follow

 

Can replace a belt within 5 minutes max (could be 10 minutes for a 4.0 car), you could even use a wooden stick (a wide one so pressure gets evenly spread on the belt) to release the tension if you don't have/can make the tool. Best is of course the tool...

 

when JAGXKRTOOFAST asked for d.i.y help it was lacking. but when i made an attempt to help there is plenty of come back to prove me wrong..the idea of useing a WOODEN STICK to leaver the tentioner defies belief..leaver it aganst what?to remove the belt from an upgraded double sided *** ..you HAVE to slacken the tentioner bolt to get the belt out believe me its not possible to get the belt off without doing this.you could of course cut it with a knife ..but you would still need to slacken the tentioner off before you can fit the new belt..there is always 2 ways to do any job thers the codge it fast way..or the do it properly way..if its a standard fitting type belt you can do it your way..but mine is a double sided setup so i did it my way..nobody will be forced to take my advice for what its worth..but ill think twice before i poke me nose in again

 

If you have a look you will see where to leaver it against, its obvious.
You might be right if you have a double ribbed belt on a 4.0 car, have not done one of these.
Sorry if you feel offended that wasn't my intention, I only saw this post this morning CET time...

 

That may be because you made the following statement:

Nowhere in that post do you qualify it with any caveat that the statement only applies to a car that has the double sided assembly upgrade.

As neither the OP, who originally started the thread exactly 1 year ago, and jagxkrtoofast who resurrected the thread yesterday mention the double ribbed assembly it is likely that they have the originals. Especially as they are now just running into the squealing problem.

In that context, the replies are quite valid.