You should see a wiring harness in the back left rear part of car where spare tire is located. At the end will be two connectors, black with white inserts. After I completed the jumpers I just taped the ends to the back panel. I did find one connector to mate to one of them but not the other. You will find two bolt studs back there that were for the telephone module.


For 97-99 RT2 and RT5 are in center console
For 2000 in trunk

JTIS fig 17.1 does indeed say they are in center console. Not what I discovered by looking at the schematic for where the control modules are located. The cellular telephone module is located against the rear wall of the trunk when installed. That's what led me to find the connectors back there.

 

Many thanks for clarifiying this Steve!

 

Thanks Stevepaa!! Right where I didn't look. Good thing that dog didn't bite. This has got to be the best forum out there.

 

As promised, here is the full write-up on the Parrot Mki9100 and MKi9200 installation to support Bluetooth hands free telephone and wireless hi-fidelity audio from your IPod/Iphone/Android. I also included a couple of properly sized files for a Jaguar custom screen display on the MKi9200.

Thanks to members dsetter, Stevepaa, endresson and thefixer for their contributions.

 

Please contact me if you are interested in plug-and-play cable fabrication for the Parrot bluetooth installation described above.

 

Hi Steve

Thanks for all the posts in this ares. Can I jumper directly between RT2 and RT5 in the boot?

Regards

DC

 

Steveaa, White XKR,

Caught up with all the posts and I am now "sorted" on the bluetooth telephone.

Now for the MP3 bit - "CD Hack" or "PIE ALP AI-AUX"?

Many thanks for all the good stuff

Regards

DC

 

PIE ALP AI-AUX + LD-10 preamp is preferable in my book since it is essentially plug and play (you do need to still wire power to the LD-10). The main issue with this approach is the auto-trigger does not tolerate material with long silent periods, so listening to movies over it would not work well, and potentially some type of music with huge dynamic range (opera?) might be troublesome. In those cases the CD-hack is for you.

 

WhiteXKR
Well, either way, I'll need to be brave. PIE ALP AI-AUX it is.

Another quick, dumb question on jumpering on RT5 and RT2 in the trunk (or "boot" as we call it in the UK) - is it essential to disconnect the car battery or, provided you take sensible precautions (rubber gloves when jumpering to the power pin/properly constructed and insulated jumpers?), there is no need?

Regards

DC

 

Paddy- One thing I neglected to mention, the PIE AI-AUX needs a modification (see the PDF I posted) if your car has standard audio and no navigation. In the US, nearly all XKRs have premium audio and navigation, but in the UK I am not certain that is the case.

It is always a good idea to disconnect the battery when making electrical modifications in case you accidently short something or make an incorrect connection. No need to wear rubber gloves....you will not get zapped by 12 volts unless you were bathing in brine for at least 3 hours .

BTW, I have the mating connectors and can make you up a 'plug-in' jumper for a nominal cost if you want. I can also do the PIE AI-AUX mod for you if necessary....PM me if you are interested.

 

WhiteXKR,

Many thanks - will cut down on the saline bathing before commencing work! (and disconnect the battery too..). Really appreciate the help and advice from you and others like Stevepaa on the forum.

I have the premium Alpine, CD changer in the boot (no sat nav), so should be good to go with the unaltered version of the PIE ALP AI-AUX. I have ordered the correct pins for the jumpering in the trunk.

In my mind, I see the job as two independent tasks - (1) connecting in the bluetooth phone kit device (in my case a Nokia CK 300) device, including doing the jumpering on the RT2 and RT5 in the trunk of my 2000 XKR and (2) taking the audio output of that device to an audio system enhanced so that can play it. I believe (hope?) that I understand the first bit on the phone side.

On the second, I'd just like to make a quick check on the sequence of series connections - I think I have it from the write up, but would like to double check -
a) Connect audio output of bluetooth kit to 12 foot RCA cable (cable run from centre console to the CD auto changer in trunk):
b) Connect RCA connectors on that cable to PAC LD-10 Preamp (wired into power and switched) which will be located in the trunk near the fusebox;
c) Connect PAC LD-10 Preamp RCA connectors to PIE ALP AI-AUX RCA connectors (passive/line powered from connections to audio equipment);
d) Connect PIE ALP AI-AUX using the Alpine compatible connector provided on it to the CD autochanger
(then do the leveling adjustments....)

Hope it is not too tedious reading back the above on something you already understand inside out and have explained very well already - I am a bit cautious and just wanted to double check using my own words.

Regards

PaddyLondon

 

You basically have it. The PIE AI_AUX has two connectors (in addition to the RCAs) so it would actually go between the CD changer and the power AMP.

Now here is where I am not 100% certain, but I think you need premium audio AND Navigation for the PIE AI-AUX to work without modification. You can try without the mod (it wiill not damage anything, it just may not work) but I think you will have to do the mod.

 

Hi,

Thanks to some jumpers and connectors generously provided by stevepaa, I have started on the practical bit of my project. Very much still a voyage of discovery - not helped that both fuses on my phone circuits were blown somehow...

On my UK XKR MY2000, I seem to have variances compared to the solutions on the forum. For example on my RT2 my 12v power is RT2-3 rather than RT2-10. Also RT2-12 is not used, so I cannot jumper to it.

I also noticed a variance between the instructions for jumpering between the RT2 and RT5 in the trunk between PDF document (Parrot MKi9200 MKi9100 install.pdf) from WhiteXKR et all and the jumpering used by Stevepaa. In Steve's version, Steve you refer to
mic + yellow RT2-11
mic - braid RT2-12
which are jumpered for mic + on RT3-4 jump RT2-11 to RT5-4 and for mic – on RT3-5 jump rt2-12 to RT5-3

In the pdf there is no mention of mic + yellow RT2-11 or mic - braid RT2-12. Does this mean I can ignore this part of the puzzle? (if so it helps as I do not have a functional RT2-12)

Any thoughts or advice very welcome

Regards
DC

 

Paddy,
You should get battery power on both RT2-10 and RT2-3 as they are spliced together on the in-car entertainment harness. It is splice ICS7 on the wiring diagram. Check again as that is strange. If confirmed, you can use the jumpers I gave you and not the plug. But you could also cut behind RT2-10 and splice it to RT2-3 and use the plug. Post a pic if you can.

As for RT2-12 that is the ground shield braided wire that goes around RT2-11. Sometimes they pull the braid shield off right at the end and it is not noticeable into RT2-12.
But you don't need either if you use the microphone in your bluetooth kit.

Which fuses were blown? Let me look in the wiring diagram and see if you have a short somewhere.

 

Steve

I have got confused on the numbering convention for the pins connectors and got them wrong. The attachment uses what I now think is the correct numbering (?), mapped against investigations with a voltmeter. I started with a similar I also tried using the numbers in the AMP engineering drawings you kindly provided - I assumed that if I looked at the drawings and connectors side by side, that would give me the correct numbering - perhaps these are engineering drawings where the perspective is not from in front of the paper but from behind.


Vis a vis the fuses - there are two phone related fuses in the UK passenger side fuse box (presume this will be the driver's side in US models), one for the centre console, the second for the PSE in the trunk. Both replaced.

Is it possible to open up connectors and add to them?

Looking at the photo, RT2-10 seems to have some verdigris staining - wonder if that is an issue?

Regards

DCAttachment 19017Attachment 19018

 

The engineering drawings are for the housings. The connectors in the trunk are the parts that fit into the housing.
So looking at the back of the RT2 connector in the trunk, the lines are 1-6 reading right to left on top and 7 thru 12 reading right to left on the bottom.

I see the corrosion in your connector. I think it is likely best to just mark all the wires correctly and cut them off from RT2 and RT5 and do the direct splicing of wires.

But you might try some baking soda/water and submerge the connector in it and then spray with electric cleaner afterwards.


Can you send a pic of the fuses and locations?

I found the fuses. I think the corrosion on RT2 may have shorted out those fuses.

 

Pull the fuses before cleaning!!

the battery lines RT2-3 &10 are from fuse FC20-9 5A
the ignition line power RT2-2 comes from fuse FC21-7 5A.

Both those fuses are to lines in your RT2 which looks corroded.

 

Steve

Many thanks - I did the clean safely - decided to disconnect the battery too. Just waiting for the connections to dry...

It is bizarre that the connections I need most are corroded. An occasional drop of water from the times I opened the trunk in the rain must have arrowed in on that one spot.

RT2-10 is likely to be defunct judging by the amount of brown rubbish that came out (rust?) when I did a mechanical clean with the eye of a needle.

Regards

DC

 

You might consider just cutting the wires and splicing together as needed. Either solder and shrink tube them or use a plastic splice connector and some RTV in it.

 

I have a 1998 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. It has a phone built in but its 1998 so it doesnt work. I wanted to replace it with a bluetooth one that wires into all the exsisting buttons and controls. I saw the wiring diagram on here but I was wondering what kind of BT device to get. I'm in the US if that helps Thank all