Brake bleeding issues
#1
Brake bleeding issues
Hello all,
I need some advice as I am having a devil of a time getting the air out of my wife's 2001 XKR brakes. I have read all the post that I can find on the bleeding process, but I still can't seem to get the pedal firm. I am using a pressure bleed system and seem to keep getting very small bubbles no matter how many times I bleed all the calipers. Should I have the ignition on for the ABS pump? I am really perplexed as to why I can't get the system to fully bleed.
Many thanks,
Mike
I need some advice as I am having a devil of a time getting the air out of my wife's 2001 XKR brakes. I have read all the post that I can find on the bleeding process, but I still can't seem to get the pedal firm. I am using a pressure bleed system and seem to keep getting very small bubbles no matter how many times I bleed all the calipers. Should I have the ignition on for the ABS pump? I am really perplexed as to why I can't get the system to fully bleed.
Many thanks,
Mike
#2
What did you do that requires you to bleed the system?
If you are still getting small bubbles maybe you have a leak somewhere?
Also did you bleed the longest line first then the next longest and so on?
I pressure bled my brake lines a month or so ago and while under pressure, with engine running, with the longest line bleed screw loose connected to a tube filled with brake fluid dipping into jar with fluid I pressed down on the brake pedal.
If you are still getting small bubbles maybe you have a leak somewhere?
Also did you bleed the longest line first then the next longest and so on?
I pressure bled my brake lines a month or so ago and while under pressure, with engine running, with the longest line bleed screw loose connected to a tube filled with brake fluid dipping into jar with fluid I pressed down on the brake pedal.
Last edited by jackra_1; 06-12-2017 at 12:33 PM.
#3
Hi Jackra_1,
I rebuilt all the calipers and replaced all the flexible brake lines. I have bled farthest to closest and even tried the Jag method with closest to farthest. I did not have the ignition on or engine running. I was asking if that needs to be done while bleeding? I see you had your engine running. Perhaps I need to have the ABS pump working?
Mike
I rebuilt all the calipers and replaced all the flexible brake lines. I have bled farthest to closest and even tried the Jag method with closest to farthest. I did not have the ignition on or engine running. I was asking if that needs to be done while bleeding? I see you had your engine running. Perhaps I need to have the ABS pump working?
Mike
#4
The abs pump only works when it's trying to correct wheel lockup. I have used my pressure bleeder to flush several different Jags and do find it's difficult to get all the air out. There was a thread in the XJ8 forum a year or two ago that found success by removing the bolts from the calipers and tipping them, claiming it's possible to get a small air pocket at the top.
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Johnken (07-05-2017)
#5
Hi Jackra_1,
I rebuilt all the calipers and replaced all the flexible brake lines. I have bled farthest to closest and even tried the Jag method with closest to farthest. I did not have the ignition on or engine running. I was asking if that needs to be done while bleeding? I see you had your engine running. Perhaps I need to have the ABS pump working?
Mike
I rebuilt all the calipers and replaced all the flexible brake lines. I have bled farthest to closest and even tried the Jag method with closest to farthest. I did not have the ignition on or engine running. I was asking if that needs to be done while bleeding? I see you had your engine running. Perhaps I need to have the ABS pump working?
Mike
You are not "supposed" to be required to have the engine running and press down on the brake pedal when using a pressure bleed device.
I went through this process several times to bleed my brakes and even now the brakes are softer than before I disconnected the rear calipers. But still perfectly fine for driving.
Btw IF you had to worry about the ABS because air is in that unit you would need special software to bleed it.
I might try the suggestion about holding the calipers upside down when and if I do this again.
#6
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jackra_1 (06-12-2017)
#7
if you were close I'd sell you my power bleeder unit... it replaces the factory brake reservoir cap and you just pressurize the system and make sure you don't run out of brake fluid in the reservoir.
I just sold my Jaguar but now I've got that power bleeder sitting around.. but it made the job a LOT easier.. hopefully you figure it out that sucks!
I just sold my Jaguar but now I've got that power bleeder sitting around.. but it made the job a LOT easier.. hopefully you figure it out that sucks!
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#8
if you were close I'd sell you my power bleeder unit... it replaces the factory brake reservoir cap and you just pressurize the system and make sure you don't run out of brake fluid in the reservoir.
I just sold my Jaguar but now I've got that power bleeder sitting around.. but it made the job a LOT easier.. hopefully you figure it out that sucks!
I just sold my Jaguar but now I've got that power bleeder sitting around.. but it made the job a LOT easier.. hopefully you figure it out that sucks!
#10
I have the "poor man's" pressure bleeder - one where the fresh brake fluid container is pressurised from the spare wheel.
Very efficient and I've had no issues flushing fluid on both my XK8 and XK. The instructions stress DO NOT EXCEED 20psi or there's a risk of introducing air into the system.
Are you using too much pressure or drawing air back in as you close the bleed screws?
Graham
Very efficient and I've had no issues flushing fluid on both my XK8 and XK. The instructions stress DO NOT EXCEED 20psi or there's a risk of introducing air into the system.
Are you using too much pressure or drawing air back in as you close the bleed screws?
Graham
#11
#12
The correct procedure is to bleed the closest wheel first then work out to the furthers.
Also you need to keep your bleed pipe and drain pot above the caliper.
I have been through this before and got the continuous stream of bubbles, they are being drawn in through the thread of the bleed nipple.
See more here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...roblem-150707/
Also you need to keep your bleed pipe and drain pot above the caliper.
I have been through this before and got the continuous stream of bubbles, they are being drawn in through the thread of the bleed nipple.
See more here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...roblem-150707/
#13
#15
Follow up on my brake bleeding issue.
Again thanks to all the help this forum gives to members. I would just like to say that I am certainly a charter member of the A.A.S. Local 6 & 7/8's. For you non stooge aficionados ( Amalgamated Association of Morons Local 6 & 7/8's). I have struggled with these bleeding issues for a couple of weeks and after reading the suggestions for getting all the air out I began to look at RJ237's suggestion of tipping the brake calipers up, I looked at the JTIS and realized the bleed nipples were pointing down not up! Yep, I had reversed the calipers.
All is good now, rock hard brake pedal. Just remember guys, nipples up!
My humble thanks again.
Mike
Again thanks to all the help this forum gives to members. I would just like to say that I am certainly a charter member of the A.A.S. Local 6 & 7/8's. For you non stooge aficionados ( Amalgamated Association of Morons Local 6 & 7/8's). I have struggled with these bleeding issues for a couple of weeks and after reading the suggestions for getting all the air out I began to look at RJ237's suggestion of tipping the brake calipers up, I looked at the JTIS and realized the bleed nipples were pointing down not up! Yep, I had reversed the calipers.
All is good now, rock hard brake pedal. Just remember guys, nipples up!
My humble thanks again.
Mike