Brakes ???
#1
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I need to replace front brake pads on my 2000 XK8. Questions:
1) Do you have to replace the rotors at the same time. They look to be in good shape, but Im told that this is a necessity.
2) Where is the most economical place to buy decent pads and or rotors?
3) Is there a particuar type of pad I can get that will minimize brake dust, right now, I cant keep my front wheels clean.
1) Do you have to replace the rotors at the same time. They look to be in good shape, but Im told that this is a necessity.
2) Where is the most economical place to buy decent pads and or rotors?
3) Is there a particuar type of pad I can get that will minimize brake dust, right now, I cant keep my front wheels clean.
#2
#3
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Haven't needed to do mine yet (2000 XJ8 VdP) but I will be choosing ceramic pads when the time comes, in order to minimize/eradicate brake dust.
Regarding cheapest place to get them, for previously owned cars I have shopped around the generic online auto parts suppliers (autopartswarehouse.com, autozone.com napaonline.com etc) and selected the cheapest at the time.
Cheers,
Steve.
Regarding cheapest place to get them, for previously owned cars I have shopped around the generic online auto parts suppliers (autopartswarehouse.com, autozone.com napaonline.com etc) and selected the cheapest at the time.
Cheers,
Steve.
#4
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As indicated in a separate thread on the issue, I'm in the process of trying (trying being the operative word) to do my 99XJ8 at this time.
I ordered pads (Akebono) and Rotors (EBC...low end) from autopartswarehouse.
If I can get the bolts dislodged, it'll be done soon. If I can't, I'll have to find a shop to do it for the cost of labor.
To answer your question, I don't believe that you must replace rotors. Get out a caliper and see what kind of shape they're really in. In hindsight, I don't think I needed rotors either...but, mine weren't nearly as expensive as the performance price quoted above.
I ordered pads (Akebono) and Rotors (EBC...low end) from autopartswarehouse.
If I can get the bolts dislodged, it'll be done soon. If I can't, I'll have to find a shop to do it for the cost of labor.
To answer your question, I don't believe that you must replace rotors. Get out a caliper and see what kind of shape they're really in. In hindsight, I don't think I needed rotors either...but, mine weren't nearly as expensive as the performance price quoted above.
#5
#6
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Look up this recent thread
front brakes and another one where Gus replied that he acquired an impact wrench to get the carrier bolts off. I have done mine without, and nearly busted my gut getting the bolts loose. Either get the biggest breaker bar you can fit on it, or try the impact wrench method. Assuming that is the problem you are having trying to get the rotors off.
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Last edited by JWT; 03-25-2010 at 12:55 AM.
#7
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Princemarko - good call on the Titanium Kevlar (Ti-Kev) pads from Disc Italia - although the braking distances (according to their website) are 2ft different (Ti-Kev stops from 60mph 2ft shorter than ceramic when cold but take 2ft longer than ceramic when hot). Both Ti-Kev and ceramic lok like they stop well short of OEM pads when hot or cold.
I can't find any pricing info for the Ti-Kevs but I did find this link, which seems to give them a big thumbs-up:
http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...rake-pads.html
Maybe I will get Ti-Kevs after all - pending the cost. Anyone have any info?
Cheers,
Steve.
I can't find any pricing info for the Ti-Kevs but I did find this link, which seems to give them a big thumbs-up:
http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...rake-pads.html
Maybe I will get Ti-Kevs after all - pending the cost. Anyone have any info?
Cheers,
Steve.
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#8
#9
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Although I purchased the low end rotors, I did use a reputable manufacturer (EBC). I expect the rotors to out-perform the OEM.
I wonder what Napa was selling in terms of generics.
Also...JWT...while at the Auto Zone yesterday, I purchased an impact wrench...just in case I have to go that route. I've got all the compressor products, so, the wrench was just $50. I'm hoping that the breaker bar will work with the penetrating lube and I can then return the impact wrench...but, $50 is a small price to pay to put another tool in the arsenal if it gets the job done.
Now all I'm missing is that damn 7mm hex wrench.
I wonder what Napa was selling in terms of generics.
Also...JWT...while at the Auto Zone yesterday, I purchased an impact wrench...just in case I have to go that route. I've got all the compressor products, so, the wrench was just $50. I'm hoping that the breaker bar will work with the penetrating lube and I can then return the impact wrench...but, $50 is a small price to pay to put another tool in the arsenal if it gets the job done.
Now all I'm missing is that damn 7mm hex wrench.
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#10
#11
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Since the front are the most 'abused', I went with the Brembo's for the front.
Check out the rotor list here. No cross drilled or anything fancy, just the smooth stuff. After many thousands of miles, they have never warped or required turning. Stops smooth.
Next time, I was keen to try these guys, I've purchased/installed a set on a jeep grand cherokee, and they are holding up extremely well, and the Jeep really works their front rotors.
As for pads, lots of different opinions around here, but matched my Brembo rotors with Akebono Euro ceramics.
Check out the rotor list here. No cross drilled or anything fancy, just the smooth stuff. After many thousands of miles, they have never warped or required turning. Stops smooth.
Next time, I was keen to try these guys, I've purchased/installed a set on a jeep grand cherokee, and they are holding up extremely well, and the Jeep really works their front rotors.
As for pads, lots of different opinions around here, but matched my Brembo rotors with Akebono Euro ceramics.
#12
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Generally speaking it is not essential to replace brake discs at the same time as the pads, it depends on the wear on the disc. Disc manufacturers normally publish a minimum thickness for the disc, i.e the wear limit, which tends to be around 21 mm. New discs normally have the wear limit punched onto the disc edge. This is easily measured with a micrometer. However if the disc is distorted, or scored, then it is best to replace.
#13
#14
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Princemarko - sounds good. I would definitiely be interested in the step-by-step pics, thanks. Any experiences/techniques you can share on bleeding the brakes would also be good. I've had my Jag for less than 2 months but despite the smooth and reassuringly strong stopping power, I'm already thinking this car has the dustiest brakes I've ever known.
Cheers,
Steve.
Cheers,
Steve.
#17
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OK, thanks for all the input guys... But it brings up some more questions on my part:
1) For me this started when I had tires put on and an alignment. The guy at the tire shop tells me that I need front brakes. I have about 70K miles on the car I think they are the orginal brakes. He absolutely assures me that the Jag dealer is telling him that the rotors can not be turned and must be replaced for the brakes to function without chatter/vibration. True / False ??? it sounds like some of your had your rotors turned or just left them alone and replaced the pads...what am I missing here ?
3) OEM rotors are $64 ??? for fronts ? each or a pair ? I was told like $300-$400 and when I look online so far the best price I can find is like $230. If they are out there for $64/pair please show me where.
4) I looked up how the Ti-Kev and Cermac brakes compare price wise and performance wise, and for my use cermac seems to be the way to go. My thought at this point comes back to #1... can I just put on pads without doing anything to the rotors or can I get the rotors turned like normal rotors and re-use them ?
Thanks,
Joel
1) For me this started when I had tires put on and an alignment. The guy at the tire shop tells me that I need front brakes. I have about 70K miles on the car I think they are the orginal brakes. He absolutely assures me that the Jag dealer is telling him that the rotors can not be turned and must be replaced for the brakes to function without chatter/vibration. True / False ??? it sounds like some of your had your rotors turned or just left them alone and replaced the pads...what am I missing here ?
3) OEM rotors are $64 ??? for fronts ? each or a pair ? I was told like $300-$400 and when I look online so far the best price I can find is like $230. If they are out there for $64/pair please show me where.
4) I looked up how the Ti-Kev and Cermac brakes compare price wise and performance wise, and for my use cermac seems to be the way to go. My thought at this point comes back to #1... can I just put on pads without doing anything to the rotors or can I get the rotors turned like normal rotors and re-use them ?
Thanks,
Joel
Last edited by JagJoel; 03-28-2010 at 09:19 AM. Reason: more info
#18
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Joel,
Link for Disc Brakes 2000 XK8
Personally, for 50 extra bucks, i'd just get slotted rotors. You are looking at around $150-200 for front rotors for your XK8. This is a XJ forum and I think that is why someone quoted you $64 for oem replacements.
My new rotors cost $600 for 4 new drilled/slotted, but what a performance difference.
Link for Disc Brakes 2000 XK8
Personally, for 50 extra bucks, i'd just get slotted rotors. You are looking at around $150-200 for front rotors for your XK8. This is a XJ forum and I think that is why someone quoted you $64 for oem replacements.
My new rotors cost $600 for 4 new drilled/slotted, but what a performance difference.
Last edited by princemarko; 03-28-2010 at 09:49 AM.