XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

Brakes ???

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  #21  
Old 03-29-2010, 01:48 PM
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Ohh, sorry I thought I was in XK, I must have clicked on the wrong forum. Thanks for moving it.
 
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Old 03-29-2010, 02:00 PM
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shooo-ur, no prob

When I did my brakes, I paid about $250 for the front pair. Pads about $100-120 IIRC, and you can do them setup yourself, eazy sneezy.
 
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Old 03-29-2010, 02:12 PM
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But this brings me back to my original question... on a XK8, do I have to replace the rotors when replacing pads ?
 
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Old 03-29-2010, 02:29 PM
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And the answer is - only if the discs are worn below the wear limit, or are badly scored, or are distorted. From the mileage you state, I would expect one of these to be applicable by now.
 
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Old 03-29-2010, 02:34 PM
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Other thing I forgot was corrosion. Ventilated discs have passages through the middle and corrosion in these can cause the disc to lose strength. It has happened that the inner face has detached itself under braking due to corrosion, but this is a very rare event, and when brake (and most other) servicing has generally been completely neglected.

By the way, discs should never be skimmed; it usually takes the disc below the wear limit.

Some people expect things to last forever without attention, maintenance, or anything !!
 
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Old 05-08-2010, 03:49 PM
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Default Awesome site .. most substantive brakes thread in 11 pages

Originally Posted by h20boy
shooo-ur, no prob

When I did my brakes, I paid about $250 for the front pair. Pads about $100-120 IIRC, and you can do them setup yourself, eazy sneezy.
2003 XK8 75k .. brakes work fine, but the rotors are mabe .05 worn and a little glazey. Svc record shows rotors swapped at least once, and a couple of pad swaps. No question about renewing all, and just wondering your opinion regarding brakeperformance ... ic performance slotted and cross-drilled and electro-black zink for 270 a pair for front, 133 for rears .. lifetime warranty, and 60 and 57 respectively for pads. Looks good to me, with lifetime warranty and directly from usa mfg .. free shipping doesn't hurt either. I have no commercial interest or connection with above named entity .. just seeking comments on other members experience regarding brake parts. I tagged this onto h2oboy's post .. cause with over 4k posts and a mod .. hope to get some knowledgible advice. Pads .. metalic-ceramic??? Gonna change out frnt brgs as long as i'm in there.
 
  #27  
Old 05-09-2010, 12:16 AM
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attaboy, this is an issue that doesn't have one correct answer to your question, there are several disc manufacturers and pad types that will often have many recommendations. I can only recommend what I know from experience, as will the other jag owners.

As long as you select rotors and pads that gets a few good thumbs up, you'll be just fine. My Brembo-Akebono Euro combination has been going strong for 56k miles now.

The one aspect that I will suggest with more fervor is the selection of brake pads. I've had the OEMs, the EBC reds, and now the Akebono Euro Ceramics. Of all the three, the Akebonos have the least amount of dust, almost nill. That was important to me, along with similar performance of the OEMs. Now, others have stated that the EBC reds have better stopping ability, I didn't try them out as hard before replacing them and don't have the driving style to warrant their need.

Good luck w/ your project!
 
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Old 05-09-2010, 06:13 PM
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Default Thanks for your input ...

Originally Posted by princemarko
Don't get ceramic brakes. They only work well when heated. If they are cold you will take longer to stop. Try Disc Italia's Titanium Kevlar brakes, zero dust, very cost efficient and brake really well.
I am not at all concerned with dust, except for having to Soil-Tac my roads here .. LOL Forecast is for snow down to 3,000 feet tonight .. and while I don't plan on driving the Cat .. I think the ceramics are mabe better suited for Y-gen's in LA. I have spec'd some semi-metalics .. suppossed to be excellent at +/- $60 an axel.

Just want something that works without compromise. I'm not gonna be testing the 155mph chip limit, but even a babydeer or wild turkey would mess up my grill .. LOL

Stopping ability, is my primary criteria .. God knows ... the XK8 has to go-fast part dialed in :-)
 
  #29  
Old 05-09-2010, 06:28 PM
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Default Another Thank YOU ... Great Site

Originally Posted by JWT
Look up this recent thread front brakes and another one where Gus replied that he acquired an impact wrench to get the carrier bolts off. I have done mine without, and nearly busted my gut getting the bolts loose. Either get the biggest breaker bar you can fit on it, or try the impact wrench method. Assuming that is the problem you are having trying to get the rotors off.
Thanks for your input. I am not yet to the r+r phase with the brakes .. still interested in actual "user" comments on pad types, and sources. I have impact wrenches .. but knowing that there are two different sizes of bolts is certainly valuable ... and like ... totally British. Some things, Ford didn't get around to changing .. LOL

On the bright side .. at least they are not using Whitworth threads .. LOL ... gotta '57 BSA 650 ... whuddah pain .. no wiki back then ehh :-)
 
  #30  
Old 05-09-2010, 07:43 PM
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Default If you need to Stop .. What is that Worth?

Originally Posted by wolvesfan
Cost for Disc Italia Ti-Kev pads on brakeworld.com (for 2000 XJ8) - $85 front / $75 rear. Not bad.

Disc Italia rotors - slotted/drilled - v expensive at $345 front / $235 rear - 4-5 times the cost of OEM replacements ($64 F&R).

Cheers,

Steve.
If you need to stop .. you have ONE shot at it. These Jag's are so much fun to drive, the stoping part is waaay to easy to relegate to the opposite paradigm .. which is waay less fun in an emergency scenario.

Speaking for myself .. having that "ohh sh*t" moment when, even driving conservatively (I haven't had a ticket since 1980) the whole friggen freeway has become instantly almost frozen .. and you don't trust your brakes and pull over .. sorta of .. into a non-traffic-lane to the left or right.

A super-premium brake job will cost you less than a years insurance on one of these Kitty's if you spec your own parts and DIY, or using a local trustworthy competant mechanic. I figure ... if you're gonna drive a car that cost over $70k new .. going cheap on brake parts, is like filling up with regular. jmho

This thread is about reccommendations, and I sincerely appreciate your input. As to the rotors, if I can buy direct from a US manufacturer that gives a lifetime warranty, electro-zink corrosion protection, free shippng, F $270.51 a pair, R $132.85 a pair ... the "Italia" stuff ... just doesn't make my boat float for slotted drilled non-plated rotors.

At the very least ... it's not a competitive price, and if it's actually made in Italy .. what is the warranty policy and how do you get warranty service? This is not a rant .. but we used to make "stuff" in this .. our country. I luv Italia .. and chinese and mexican too .. in food .. LOL

Summary is a bit OT ... my first tractor here .. is a 1952 Ford 8n .. last year of production, 472,000 made. Made here. For equally comparable products, I would pay a 20% premium for US made rotors ... cause .. as my old boss at Westinghouse said 35 years ago .. we gotta put parts on the floor. If Ford hadn't goosed Jag .. we wouldn't be aluvin' these incredible vehicles.
 
  #31  
Old 05-09-2010, 10:35 PM
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Then you'll probably want EBC for rotors and either EBC or Hawk HPS for pads. EBC (UK/USA), Hawk (USA).

Brembo is what I am currently using with Performance Friction pads which aren't any cleaner than OEM but stop great and dead quiet. I would have gotten the Hawk HPS but they weren't available for the XK8 the last time I checked and apparently now they are. I had hawks on my mustang and loved them, they had the least dust of any I tried and stopped awesome.

Had ceramics prior to that and I didn't like them at all. Were'nt very clean and sounded like a school bus stopping, very disapointed. They weren't the akebono's though, forgot which one they were and swore never to use ceramics again.

Brembo by the way has production facilities in 12 countries so I'll have to check my box to see where they were actually manucatured.

Don't mind cleaning my wheels, I like stopping when I need to!
 
  #32  
Old 05-09-2010, 11:31 PM
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Jaguar have spent a little time on disk brake development. I would go with the stock Jurid and or Mintex pads and stock rotors. No compromises to keep those shiny wheels clean!
Aren't we supposed to drive these cars?
We are in good company with our toasty wheels.
 
  #33  
Old 05-10-2010, 02:34 PM
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The key value in disc replacement is "Minimum Thickness". This is normally specified by the brake manufacturers and also on the technical data from Jaguar. Even if not scored if the actual thickness is below the minimum, the discs should be replaced. If within tolerance but badly scored, or warped, then replace also, otherwise retain. Discs should last longer than a single set of pads, but may not do so.
 
  #34  
Old 05-10-2010, 04:39 PM
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My Brembo's Rotors were made in Italy
 
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