Burning Coolant Smell - Help!!!
#1
#2
My tiny leak is at the bottom of the thermostat housing. I've tried the cardboard gasket. I've tried the 0-ring gasket. I'm actually using them both at the moment. The leak doesn't want to stop and quite frankly it's leaking so little on my car that I've given up. Good luck finding and fixing yours.
#3
Common problem is that the Norma connectors, located in the heater hoses above the catalytic converters on both sides will drip on the cat(s) and product the smell you describe.
Or the coolant reservoir will do the same thing and is also a common issue.
Best solution is to 'rent' a coolant system pressure test kit from one of the auto parts stores. Pump it up cold and you will know for sure where the leak is.
Or the coolant reservoir will do the same thing and is also a common issue.
Best solution is to 'rent' a coolant system pressure test kit from one of the auto parts stores. Pump it up cold and you will know for sure where the leak is.
#4
I agree with XENOPHOBE!!! I have a small leak somewhere and had my shop put on 2 housings but leak is very small that i got tired of tracking it down. My mechanic seems to think that cool to hot expansion in the hoses are the issue. Naaa, just him saying he has no clue either. I manage by topping off every month or so.
#5
I agree with Test Point on the drip at rear of engine. I had the same problem, used my pressure tester to locate when the engine was cold. This tool has paid off over the years, I did have to purchase an adapter for the Jaguar.
One tip is to increase pressure slowly while checking since you don't want to convert a slow lead into a flood.
One tip is to increase pressure slowly while checking since you don't want to convert a slow lead into a flood.
#6
I agree with Test Point on the drip at rear of engine. I had the same problem, used my pressure tester to locate when the engine was cold. This tool has paid off over the years, I did have to purchase an adapter for the Jaguar.
One tip is to increase pressure slowly while checking since you don't want to convert a slow lead into a flood.
One tip is to increase pressure slowly while checking since you don't want to convert a slow lead into a flood.
#7
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#8
#9
I wish my leak were easily fixable. The thermostat housing is just a bad design altogether. My cap was leaking. Got that fixed... still had the burning coolant smell... carefully retorqued the housing, is a minor leak at the base that doesn't want to go away.
That's not the real problem though, got a valve cover gasket starting to act up on the xk8.... *sigh*
That's not the real problem though, got a valve cover gasket starting to act up on the xk8.... *sigh*
#10
Coolant Smell
I had the same problem with my 2001 XK8 for 2 years. The dealer said every thing was fine. I eventualy discovered the thermostat housing (made of plastic) had a hair line crack that expanded when hot. I replaced the housing with a new cast aluminum one no more smell but very difficult to get at to work on.
#11
I had the same problem with my 2001 XK8 for 2 years. The dealer said every thing was fine. I eventualy discovered the thermostat housing (made of plastic) had a hair line crack that expanded when hot. I replaced the housing with a new cast aluminum one no more smell but very difficult to get at to work on.
#12
I had to take the torque bolts out of the plastic thermostat housing, and replace them with bolts. This allowed me to torque it more. Stored the leak, then the cap leaked, put some thread tape on that. Worked for a day. Then leaked. Poured some stop leak in. (I know that is bad) but out stopped all but a couple of drops every so often. Thinking about bending some tin to get the drops to fall through rather than burning on the engine.
#13
http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/ge...tant/12023.jpg
Last edited by GordoCatCar; 05-19-2011 at 11:42 AM.
#14
#15
I posted this on a different thread but I also have the coolant smell on my 03 XK8 - seems there is a little drip from somewhere on the bottom of the expansion tank, dripping on the exhaust manifold. I am looking into replacing it but I need to check all the hose connections first.
The connectors used there are of the 'spring clamp' variety. Often the older hoses are already compressed to the point wherein the spring clamp allows a drip. You can either get new hoses, which allow the re-use of spring clamps; or use 'screw-type' clamps on the existing [compressed] hose ends. I like the positive screw clamps vs the spiral screw designs. Either way, I usually put a screw clamp on first to ascertain whether or not that connection is the leak source. Remember, most leaks are found only under pressure.
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flydutch (05-19-2011)
#16
Thanks, Gordo.....
I believe all the hose clamps are original, so I will check them first thing and at least put a better clamp on the offending hose (if it's not the expansion tank itself) for the short term. At 8 hot years and 89K, this cat's cooling system component inspection and some replacement might be wise, I think.
I believe all the hose clamps are original, so I will check them first thing and at least put a better clamp on the offending hose (if it's not the expansion tank itself) for the short term. At 8 hot years and 89K, this cat's cooling system component inspection and some replacement might be wise, I think.
#17
It makes sense to get to know this part of the car because eventually you are going to have some leaks back there. Get a head start and explore the water pump, water valve, the octopus, the two lines under the manifold, the front water pump, thermostat housing, and the expansion tank. I thought my leak was going to cost $200 in new rear hoses and it was fixed by a $1 clamp on the reservoir hard pipes.
#18