So, also, it looks like the plastic tensioners may still be in this engine. I will plan on replacement if I pull the trigger.

 

Testpoint is referring to replacing ONLY the secondary tensioners at those prices. I just bought an '01 after owning a '97. There are differing opinions on this but I had only the secondary tensioners replaced before I drove the car home to Chicago from Maryland. I have no intention of preventative replacement of the primaries for 55000 more miles (90k for me). Few (if I have read of any) engines get trashed by primary tensioner failure and the symptoms and sounds reportedly become obvious when they are gone or going. Not true with the secondaries: they have caused rapid destruction. Mine cost $600 to replace with latest steel tensioners from an Indy in Glen Burnie, MD and I found one in Chicago who also quoted that price. I also chose a pressure-reduction system for the top (to minimize the likelihood that the lines rupture) and am mulling over preventative replacement of the A-drum and valve body in the trans next summer. I got a quote of $1750 for that. I may pull the trans myself for the fun of it and save some $ if I do it. I will drive in complete peace then...not that other things can't go wrong but these are the common ones that keep my attention. Jac

 

Brucelee, I am one of those "hobby" mechanic/owners mentioned in an earlier post. I can confirm Test Point's DIY cost assesment. I just purchased secondary tensioners (3rd Gen metal type), new "shorter" tensioner bolts and a complete cam cover gasket set (with washers and seals) from Partsgeek.com, for under $200. I plan to do the job myself this weekend.

If you are mechanically inclined, there are plenty of posts on our forum and as well as other videos online to help you through the job...should you purchase a car that needs them replaced. I've checked around and it's $800 to $1000 to have an indy professional shop do the work in my area.

I'm pretty sure that I have a nikasil engine in my 2000 XKR (Built 11/99) with 75,000 miles and have had no related problems. My car runs very strong! I agree that most of the nickasil problems in the US with the early MY XK's have already shown up and have pretty much been sorted out by now.

You've recieved some excellent advice from many in this thread. (My main Jag how to source!)
You're asking the right questions. Good luck on finding a great Jag and being confortable in your decision!

Cheers!

Jon

 

I bought my 200 XKR Convertible in January of 2011 with 67k miles for $10,600. It was a dealer serviced car from a private party with some cosmetic issues and in need of some mechanical upgrades.

Here's the repairs I had to do to set the car right:

-PDR of two panels, came out perfect - $150
-Repair curb rash, powder coat and repaint all wheels - $600
-Busted seat switch - $100
-Secondary tensioners, spark plugs, gaskets and such - $200
-Convertible Top; green shower this year, $70 for hose* and $20 for resistor

*I work in a Facilities Department (software engineer for CMMS) and I had a hose made for about $70.

That all said, I've spent $1140 to set the car right. Nobody was offering XKRs in the kind of shape this is now, with the ~70k miles for $11,700. Plus, I know everything has been done right. If I'd bought a minter, it would've still needed the convertible top and tensioners taken care of; and the wheels wouldn't be basically brand new; oh, and it would've cost quite a bit more.

If I had to do it again, I would buy another early car. I also have driven some XK8s and although they're great cars, I wouldn't buy one as I'd have to have the XKR again. Don't fear the early cars, just buy at a price where you can do the upgrades and do well.

 

You guys are great. Thanks so much!

 

80sRule,

Tell us more about your $70 custom-made hydraulic hoses for the convertible top. Did you replace both hoses for $70, or just one hose for $70? If you only replaced one hose, why did you not go ahead with replacing both at the same time?

 

Brucelee,
As I stated in an earlier reply, I spent about $1500-1600 total to have upper and lower tensioners replaced with the newest version and the shorter bolts. I also replaced the timing chains, all related gaskets, everything that could possibly be connected with the system, and an oil filter and oil change. I purchased the kit myself, I think it was either
$699 or $749 and $800 labor at an independent mechanic that I use for all of my cars. $3000 is ridiculous, especially in light of the fact that they were only doing uppers. Crazy!

 

I forgot that I also replaced the water pump in that price as well.
Ted