Can't fill up with gas!!!
#1
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I've had this happen twice now in the last month or so, and it was at two different gas stations...
No matter how slowly I try to fill it up, I can hardly get any gas into the tank. It just keeps backing up in the filler neck and shuts off the pump.
I am leaning towards it being related to the Canister Close Valve, but not quite sure. Has anyone else had this issue? I've searched the forum, and can't quite come up with what I am looking for...
If it is the CCV, can it be easily tested, cleaned or replaced??
Thanks in advance for all the help!!
No matter how slowly I try to fill it up, I can hardly get any gas into the tank. It just keeps backing up in the filler neck and shuts off the pump.
I am leaning towards it being related to the Canister Close Valve, but not quite sure. Has anyone else had this issue? I've searched the forum, and can't quite come up with what I am looking for...
If it is the CCV, can it be easily tested, cleaned or replaced??
Thanks in advance for all the help!!
#2
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Greg Hamby (11-06-2011)
#3
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Some of these cars have a feature called on-board refueling vapor recovery, and according to JTIS there is a check valve in the tank to support this feature. Just a guess, but I think it could be this valve, the CCV or another valve called the fuel level vent valve.
The CCV is supposed to be normally open, and only closes during the evap system test. If it was stuck closed you might have an evap. fault...It might be worth checking codes and evap test results with an OBDII reader....they might offer a clue.
The CCV is supposed to be normally open, and only closes during the evap system test. If it was stuck closed you might have an evap. fault...It might be worth checking codes and evap test results with an OBDII reader....they might offer a clue.
Last edited by WhiteXKR; 10-24-2011 at 03:08 PM. Reason: Corrections
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#4
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#5
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Greg Hamby (11-06-2011)
#6
#7
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Are you sure the neck is filling with gas, and not just fumes? I've had this problem quite a few times on all of my vehicles, not just the Jag, and I think the problem is with the fuel pumps. Some of them are just too sensitive to pressure and shut off too easily, especially if there's a good seal with the rubber boot around the nozzle and the fill tube. When this happens, I keep backing up the nozzle until there's enough of an air gap that the pressure doesn't build enough to shut off the pump.
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#8
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#9
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Thanks Bob!!
Sounds like I need to crawl under the car...
There also is a pinched wire going thru the floor of the trunk that I need to investigate further, it might be going to the CCV valve? Anyone sure of the wire colors going to the CCV??
I'm pretty sure it's not a faulty gas pump, it happenend at two different stations. I DID try to pull the nozzle back out further, but no matter how I tried, it kept splashing back almost immediately.
Will report back what I find when I find it!!
Thanks again to all on this forum.
Sounds like I need to crawl under the car...
There also is a pinched wire going thru the floor of the trunk that I need to investigate further, it might be going to the CCV valve? Anyone sure of the wire colors going to the CCV??
I'm pretty sure it's not a faulty gas pump, it happenend at two different stations. I DID try to pull the nozzle back out further, but no matter how I tried, it kept splashing back almost immediately.
Will report back what I find when I find it!!
Thanks again to all on this forum.
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Greg Hamby (11-06-2011)
#10
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Latest updates....
Checked the OBD codes, and only had the normal P1111.
Looked closer at the pinched wire in the trunk, it IS the orange and white with blue stripe that is going to the CCV valve, but unfortunately, the wires are not damaged at all, only the hard black insulation on the loom was pinched flat.
The TSB above that Bob provided is actually for the XJ's, not XK's. Would it apply to the XK's also, just with a different TSB # ??
HELP !! I only have about a half tank left, gotta come up with something soon!!!
Checked the OBD codes, and only had the normal P1111.
Looked closer at the pinched wire in the trunk, it IS the orange and white with blue stripe that is going to the CCV valve, but unfortunately, the wires are not damaged at all, only the hard black insulation on the loom was pinched flat.
The TSB above that Bob provided is actually for the XJ's, not XK's. Would it apply to the XK's also, just with a different TSB # ??
HELP !! I only have about a half tank left, gotta come up with something soon!!!
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Greg Hamby (11-06-2011)
#11
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#12
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I have a 2007 XJ8L.
For what it's worth:
Whenever I fill up at Sam's club I have the same problem. I finally found that if I rotate the nozzle where the handle is almost verticle the gas will go in without problem. Otherwise the pump shuts off with every squirt!
QT and Race Track, the same problem only not so bad.
I'm in north Texas and we have the vacuum suck back fillers on all our gas stations. While traveling to Indiana this month, none of the stations are required to have these type of fuel dispensers, and I had absolutely no problems filling up!
Regards,
Don
For what it's worth:
Whenever I fill up at Sam's club I have the same problem. I finally found that if I rotate the nozzle where the handle is almost verticle the gas will go in without problem. Otherwise the pump shuts off with every squirt!
QT and Race Track, the same problem only not so bad.
I'm in north Texas and we have the vacuum suck back fillers on all our gas stations. While traveling to Indiana this month, none of the stations are required to have these type of fuel dispensers, and I had absolutely no problems filling up!
Regards,
Don
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Greg Hamby (11-06-2011)
#13
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#15
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Bob,
I got underneath the car this weekend and removed the CCV valve. It and all of the rubber hoses and metal tubes appear to be in really good condition (no rust anywhere).
Is there a way to test the CCV Valve to see if it is indeed the culprit? Is there a way to confirm that the wiring going to it is ok and it's getting the proper voltage to operate?? How can I confirm that it is indeed the valve and not the cannisters?
Thanks in advance for all of your help!
I got underneath the car this weekend and removed the CCV valve. It and all of the rubber hoses and metal tubes appear to be in really good condition (no rust anywhere).
Is there a way to test the CCV Valve to see if it is indeed the culprit? Is there a way to confirm that the wiring going to it is ok and it's getting the proper voltage to operate?? How can I confirm that it is indeed the valve and not the cannisters?
Thanks in advance for all of your help!
#16
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Leave the CCV hose off and go to a filling station to see if it will gas up properly.
It could be a fault in the EVAP Flange on the top of the tank.
The CCV is normally open and needs power to close it.
You might also check the other end that goes to the rear damper upper mount area.
bob gauff
It could be a fault in the EVAP Flange on the top of the tank.
The CCV is normally open and needs power to close it.
You might also check the other end that goes to the rear damper upper mount area.
bob gauff
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Greg Hamby (11-08-2011)
#17
#19
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Now if the corrosion lodged in the valve and kept it from re-opening, then this fix PLUS a new CCV would be needed.
I think Motorcarman gave good advice and it is a relatively easy test if you do not mind crawling under the car.
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Greg Hamby (11-08-2011)
#20
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Hello, I did get under the car. Not well equipped or that knowledgeable in these matters. i saw hoses connected to two "boxes" near the rear shocks on each side. I did not want to start disconnecting things I was not sure about. I will have to get it on a rack and have my mechanic check out the service bulletin instructions.