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Can't get into Trunk

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  #1  
Old 11-29-2019, 01:11 PM
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Default Can't get into Trunk

I am a new member of the forum. I have a 2005 XK8 Convertible with about 58k miles.

My battery died and am not able to get the trunk open to get to the battery:

1) I only have the green key, as the black one is lost.

2)) I connected jumper cables to the positive/negative terminals under the front hood. Upon doing so, interior and exterior lights flash on, often blinking like crazy at first until settling after a few minutes. The car does not ultimately start and the power available does NOT allow me to unlock the trunk with the dash trunk release button.

3) With cables connected to the front terminals, my dash says that Valet Mode is on. I press the unlock button on my key fob, but it does not work (a loud chirp sounds off instead, as if there is some sort of fault in the system). Pressing the dash Valet button also does nothing.

4) The driver and passenger windows are stuck all the way up, thus I am unable to close the doors (which normally scoot up under the convertible top when I close them).

I'm hoping to avoid having to force my way into the trunk.

My questions are (key goal is to get trunk open):

1) Can/how do I order a replacement black key that might just unlock the trunk manually (the hidden key hole is in good working, as of just before the black key was lost a few months ago)

2) Any idea as to how to override the key fob chirp/fault?

3) Any other way to get the trunk open? I perused the model manual by Gary Van Remortel - I paste a small portion of it below:

"Before you do, verify that seldom-used manual boot lid key mechanism hidden in right rear
badge still works, in case you mistakenly close boot lid and need to reopen it manually. Another
way to unlock is to connect an external 12V battery between Engine Compartment Fuse Box Power
Tap and Chassis
."


Referring to the underlined portion: how does one do this? Does this refer to my having connected jumper cables to the terminals under the hood?

Thanks for any replies,

Nick
 
  #2  
Old 11-29-2019, 01:36 PM
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Welcome to the forums Nick,

Do NOT attempt to start the vehicle with jumpers attached in the engine compartment.

Once you have power to those terminals, open the luggage compartment lid with the green push button in the centre of the chrome trim as only the black master key will open the keyway in the badge. This is my 2005 Coupe but the Convertible opening options are the same.




Graham
 
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  #3  
Old 11-29-2019, 02:13 PM
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Default A few other things to try.....

+1 to GGG

Another 2 thoughts....
1. You’re jumping at the front bonnet. Are you using a spare 12V battery? The instructions to use a ground on the suspension probably isn’t the best. Try finding a black earth somewhere else. There’s another ground near the ABS module. That may give better power to the car to allow you to use the button to pop the trunk.
2. The valet key only varies from the master key by the width of the tip. See thread below and the pic in post 14. A lot of people file the sides of the valet key tip to make a master key. Simple 5min job. That may get you entry to the trunk.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...let-key-60375/

IMHO you need to get another spare master key at some point in the future
 
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Old 11-29-2019, 02:37 PM
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Quick look: sounds like your alarm is tripping with battery connected (horn lights).

Do you have the key fob with the buttons? If yes, hook battery to under hood terminals. As David said never try to start this way. It I'd fused, cant take the current. Fuse is in trunk.

Battery hooked up, car has 12 volts. Press trunk release button.

valet button disables the trunk button. You pushed it, we have to work around it.

Battery connected. Driver door open , press trunk release. Do you get a warning beep? If yes = valet engaged.

BTW I said door open because my trunk button will not open if ignition is off, door closed.

Going to step back and think more. Give us all feedback on each suggestion, itll help us help you.

John
 
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Old 11-29-2019, 03:42 PM
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I am pretty sure that you can change a valet key into a master key by carefully grinding a little away from the tip. Could someone perhaps post some side by side pix of valet and master keys to check what I say and show what would need to be done?

Edit. Sorry, just seen DavidYau’s post... I should read things more carefully! Pix below.
 

Last edited by Diddion; 11-29-2019 at 04:06 PM.
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Old 11-29-2019, 04:03 PM
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In the upper photo the valet key is in the right, and in the lower photo it is on the left. The only difference is that I can there is a very small removal of material on the two opposites SIDES only of the tip, turning the valet key into a master key. This starts just beyond the beginning of the chamfer.

Note that I have not done this key modification myself.

 

Last edited by Diddion; 11-29-2019 at 04:20 PM.
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Old 11-29-2019, 05:07 PM
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+1

The sections marked in BLUE are identical on both MASTER and VALET keys. The VALET key can be modified into a MASTER key by machining the section shown in red:






That has always seemed extraordinary to me. Logic demands that it should be designed the other way round!

Graham
 
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Old 11-29-2019, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by GGG
+1

That has always seemed extraordinary to me. Logic demands that it should be designed the other way round!

Graham
I dunno, Graham. Can you imagine trying to add a spot of filler instead? And the idea of two keys seems daft to me; I would have thought a better solution could have been found.

And, anyway, who needs it? Other than denying access to one’s own property, as the OP has discovered, does anyone actually use the valet function?
 
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Old 11-29-2019, 09:02 PM
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Diddion,

I know what you mean. After i started to answer above, I went outside to test a few suggestions for the OP today.

Then I realized I had disconnected the valet switch a long time ago!

Like you said, I never use it & it would just cause these kind of headaches.

So for me, it went the way of the (other) annoying feature: Headlight On indicator = DELETED...

Let's take bets - how long will it be before I glue the dam cup holder shut next?

John
 
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Old 12-02-2019, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by NickJag7
My questions are (key goal is to get trunk open):

1) Can/how do I order a replacement black key that might just unlock the trunk manually (the hidden key hole is in good working, as of just before the black key was lost a few months ago)
At a minimum, you need a Tibbe 8-cut key to get in your trunk (and activate the mechanical locks like the doors and the ignition lock). This is a Ford setup, but not terribly common. Most local locksmiths do not bother with the equipment for this as there is low demand. The immediate answer is the dealer where you can buy the right key cut to your car. Programming the key to your car to start the engine is extra. The next easy/expensive option is to seek the services of a mobile locksmith. They seem to be insanely connected to the usual search engines, so search and call around to check that they can help. Expect a steep fee, but you get quick service delivered to your car. Expect over a couple hundred dollars for these services.

The alternative is to work towards the integrated keyfob/flip key like in the newer models. The body/remote is available inexpensively on eBay and can be programmed at home. You can buy Tibbe 8-cut keys on eBay, already cut to your car (check vendor carlocksandkeys). You can then mount the key stem on the flip key with basic skills in the garage (hack saw, file, etc.). The last step is to procure the crypto chip (Megamos 48, cheap) and have it programmed to the car.

Best of luck, keep us posted.
 
  #11  
Old 12-04-2019, 04:15 AM
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Are you still locked out, Nick? Hope you haven’t had to resort to a can opener.
 
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  #12  
Old 01-19-2020, 09:56 AM
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I apologize for the delay in my follow-up to my post/trunk & key problem. I did not get the problem fixed until recently. But here goes:

Once I got the trunk open, it turned out my battery was not only dead and in need of a jump/charge, but it was forever DEAD, no good. I had to get a new one.

2) In response to GGG: the trunk release button you indicate ("JAG o UAR") was not working at all, perhaps because my battery was no good. But I had tried that.

3) I was going to attempt to file my valet key, but I wanted to make a copy of it first, just in case I went too far - I did research on local key makers who were able to duplicate this key. This took numerous phone calls and plenty of phone tag. As it turned out, they were no less expensive that just going to my local Jaguar dealer.

4) I did not attempt to purchase online a pre-cut Tibbe; nor did I intend to self program a new key.

5) Jaguar Dealer: They provided me with a "Mock" master key just so I could get into the trunk. It was not programmed but the cut allowed me access to the trunk. I was advised: absolutely DO NOT put this mock key into the ignition, as that might 'blow up' the inner circuitry/computer.

6) With access to my trunk, I removed the old battery and had a mechanic friend look at it, try to charge it overnight, he told me it was no good. I bought a new battery and installed it - car started right up.

7) I've taken the car to a friend of my father to do some cosmetic repairs (that is the friend's business) I'd been planning to do before this problem occurred. He still has the car with the valet key and is aware that that is my only key (I kept the mock trunk key at home).

8) Once I get the car back, I will take it to Jaguar to have them program the new key (I purchased it already for $136 plus tax, and they will charge 1 hour of labor to program it, which is $180).

9) I will keep the Mock trunk key (I put tape on it to identify it, since it looks just like the black key) in my safe and otherwise have a single master and a single valet.

Nick
 
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  #13  
Old 01-19-2020, 01:15 PM
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The trunk lock does not require power. When it does not work you have a bad key or more likely its mechanism is jammed typically due to non-use.
 
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