CATS with a switch
#41
07-14-2013, 06:50 AM
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Pigi (07-14-2013)
#42
07-14-2013, 08:41 AM
Great news, Thanks.
Just a question. I had the non-CATS shocks installed and now i have the fault on all the time. Just to shut the fault indication off, should i unplug Pin11 (ignition supply) or Pin27 (battery Supply) on the ADCM connector pin? Or does it make any difference either way?
please advise.
Just a question. I had the non-CATS shocks installed and now i have the fault on all the time. Just to shut the fault indication off, should i unplug Pin11 (ignition supply) or Pin27 (battery Supply) on the ADCM connector pin? Or does it make any difference either way?
please advise.
#44
07-14-2013, 04:57 PM
Great news, Thanks.
Just a question. I had the non-CATS shocks installed and now i have the fault on all the time. Just to shut the fault indication off, should i unplug Pin11 (ignition supply) or Pin27 (battery Supply) on the ADCM connector pin? Or does it make any difference either way?
please advise.
Just a question. I had the non-CATS shocks installed and now i have the fault on all the time. Just to shut the fault indication off, should i unplug Pin11 (ignition supply) or Pin27 (battery Supply) on the ADCM connector pin? Or does it make any difference either way?
please advise.
Just unplug the control module located in the boot and the fault warning will go away.
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Pigi (07-14-2013)
#45
07-14-2013, 06:30 PM
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Pigi (07-14-2013)
#47
07-15-2013, 11:40 AM
Veteran Member
#48
07-15-2013, 01:10 PM
The basic system operation is the same but looking at the S-Type wiring diagram the control model is different.
The one in the S-Type looks to be somewhat more advanced with a connection to the SCP network and lacking the dedicated lines for vehicle speed, brake switch and the error output.
I am not familiar with the S-Type so can't say whether you will get an error if the module is switched off or disconnected, but if you can unplug it without seeing a fault, then I would imaging you can approach adding a switch in a similar way.
It will take some experimentation but where there is a will, there is a way.
The one in the S-Type looks to be somewhat more advanced with a connection to the SCP network and lacking the dedicated lines for vehicle speed, brake switch and the error output.
I am not familiar with the S-Type so can't say whether you will get an error if the module is switched off or disconnected, but if you can unplug it without seeing a fault, then I would imaging you can approach adding a switch in a similar way.
It will take some experimentation but where there is a will, there is a way.
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Bad Cattitude (07-15-2013)
#49
03-07-2014, 07:55 AM
Senior Member
? instructions for independent CATS switch
While I appreciate the instructions on post 33 to have CATS goto firm mode when the sport is engaged for the engine/transmission setting...
I found there were too many places where my suspension was bouncy as a result, but I really like pulling away strongly. I'd like to keep them separate.
Suggestion for how to have a separate switch for CATS shocks soft vs firm?
Even if it was in the trunk, that would be good.
WAIT. How about connecting CATS to the other button, the cruise control button? I never use control anway
I found there were too many places where my suspension was bouncy as a result, but I really like pulling away strongly. I'd like to keep them separate.
Suggestion for how to have a separate switch for CATS shocks soft vs firm?
Even if it was in the trunk, that would be good.
WAIT. How about connecting CATS to the other button, the cruise control button? I never use control anway
#50
03-07-2014, 10:14 AM
All you need do is break that same ignition wire to to the controller to turn it on and off.
If you don't want it connected to the sport button, you could do a switch a couple of ways that I can think of:
It might be possible to connect it to the cruise switches on the steering wheel but that would be a little more complicated as those are momentary switches and wired to some control electronics.
If you don't want it connected to the sport button, you could do a switch a couple of ways that I can think of:
- Put a switch in the boot. Simple, but not ideal for accessibility.
- Use a 12V relay and run a wire form the coil up to the cockpit somewhere so you can toggle it. You'd need to find 12V somewhere, but that's not too hard.
- Run two wires from the boot and remotely mount the switch in the cockpit. You'd need to make sure the switch and wires could handle the current, but it probably isn't very much.
It might be possible to connect it to the cruise switches on the steering wheel but that would be a little more complicated as those are momentary switches and wired to some control electronics.
#51
06-09-2014, 11:21 AM
#53
03-06-2018, 01:36 PM
Hi Charlie
Thanks for the thread, great, I must give this a try! One comment if I may: you can use a FET as suggested but there is a risk for ESD damage due to the unprotected gate. There are simple ways to protect for this sort of thing - I can advise if anyone is interested. In my case, I will try by switching the 47k resistor directly to ground (the ground point itself should be close to the CATS module).
Thanks for the thread, great, I must give this a try! One comment if I may: you can use a FET as suggested but there is a risk for ESD damage due to the unprotected gate. There are simple ways to protect for this sort of thing - I can advise if anyone is interested. In my case, I will try by switching the 47k resistor directly to ground (the ground point itself should be close to the CATS module).
#54
03-01-2022, 05:52 PM
Junior Member
I just did similar to this on my XK8 using the old 'analog' method of relay and a switch. The ADC ontrol unit is missing from my car ( removed by P/O for some reason ) so I wired direclty to the multi-pin connector on the wriring harness using small crimp pins which fit snugly into each terminal / recepticle.
I picked up the 5A ignition feed through a switch to operate a relay which switches the 20A feed directly to all 4 corners. I'm going to run it like this for a while, I have purchased a 2nd hand control unit to try which may or may not work, depending upon whether the accelerometers are functional or not. The shocks certainly switch from hard to soft though using this hard-wired method. The good old KISS principal always works.
I picked up the 5A ignition feed through a switch to operate a relay which switches the 20A feed directly to all 4 corners. I'm going to run it like this for a while, I have purchased a 2nd hand control unit to try which may or may not work, depending upon whether the accelerometers are functional or not. The shocks certainly switch from hard to soft though using this hard-wired method. The good old KISS principal always works.
Reading your entry up on 1 mar 22 - I'm concerned that the dampers were rated to 12V? Any subsequent conclusions from you? - (did they burn out?!)
#55
03-02-2022, 01:29 AM
Senior Member
I just did similar to this on my XK8 using the old 'analog' method of relay and a switch. The ADC ontrol unit is missing from my car ( removed by P/O for some reason ) so I wired direclty to the multi-pin connector on the wriring harness using small crimp pins which fit snugly into each terminal / recepticle.
I picked up the 5A ignition feed through a switch to operate a relay which switches the 20A feed directly to all 4 corners. I'm going to run it like this for a while, I have purchased a 2nd hand control unit to try which may or may not work, depending upon whether the accelerometers are functional or not. The shocks certainly switch from hard to soft though using this hard-wired method. The good old KISS principal always works.
I picked up the 5A ignition feed through a switch to operate a relay which switches the 20A feed directly to all 4 corners. I'm going to run it like this for a while, I have purchased a 2nd hand control unit to try which may or may not work, depending upon whether the accelerometers are functional or not. The shocks certainly switch from hard to soft though using this hard-wired method. The good old KISS principal always works.
#56
03-02-2022, 03:14 AM
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If one takes a few corners in a spirited fashion it’s pretty easy to tell the difference in dampening when the CATS system is activated. The XK8 Shocks are a compromise that puts dampening between the two setting of the XKR, with a pronounced bias towards a softer ride.
Depending on how you like to drive the car, that may or may not be a buzz kill for you. Personally I would miss the versatility of the CATS arrangement.
Z
#57
03-02-2022, 04:05 AM
Senior Member
If one takes a few corners in a spirited fashion it’s pretty easy to tell the difference in dampening when the CATS system is activated. The XK8 Shocks are a compromise that puts dampening between the two setting of the XKR, with a pronounced bias towards a softer ride.
Depending on how you like to drive the car, that may or may not be a buzz kill for you. Personally I would miss the versatility of the CATS arrangement.
Z
Depending on how you like to drive the car, that may or may not be a buzz kill for you. Personally I would miss the versatility of the CATS arrangement.
Z
#58
03-02-2022, 04:16 AM
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Deciding to keep the CATS shocks is admittedly not an easy decision given the expense and the current low-ish value of these cars.
It one has only driven the XK8 the benefits of CAR
TS may not be evident. But these cars are heavy, especially given their size. To me , the softer shocks contribute to “wallowing” if a corner is taken at a
speed greater than sedate. I’m not expecting a hard sports car feeling from a GT car, but I don’t want it to have a sedan feeling either.
Z
It one has only driven the XK8 the benefits of CAR
TS may not be evident. But these cars are heavy, especially given their size. To me , the softer shocks contribute to “wallowing” if a corner is taken at a
speed greater than sedate. I’m not expecting a hard sports car feeling from a GT car, but I don’t want it to have a sedan feeling either.
Z
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