Thanks to you both for the recommends. Barratt looks good but quite a bit more expensive and slower delivery. I went w/ Rock. Doing the expansion tank because of "low coolant" warning. Opened the cap to see if the sensor was intact and wasn't sticking. Started the car up. Now no warning but then it came on again a few miles later. Expansion tank full (no fluid loss after driving) and the engine is running 198-203 full warmed up (pulling info using OBD/Bluetooth/phone). While I could do just the sensor, figured I'd be proactive and replace the whole thing.

Am slowly getting the car sorted out. Cooling system drain next. Secondary tensioners redone in the past. Transmission shifts smoothly (77k) but a drain/refill and filter sounds like a good idea. Not something I'd do if the trans already had problems. Not ready to completely redo the lines on the the hydraulic top . Capping the latch lines at the pump and manual on/close w/ the 8mm means no green shower. We'll see how well that works. Top quality battery, alternator works well, top open/close w/in 20 seconds, engine idles smoothly and pulls well, good brakes, front end reasonably tight. Smooth ride even w/ low grade tires. I've heard about the clear lacquer failing on early 2000's so always covered when parked. It was an impulse purchase. It's been a lot of time and money (and frustration) but they really are great cars.

 

One common concern with aftermarket XK8 / XKR coolant reservoirs (any of them) is the cap. Genuine OEM caps seem to last longer in most cases. Currently I am running a 2015 OEM cap on my 2017 rockauto.com reservoir. I kept the rockauto.com cap as a spare - it may be just fine but after going through three or four caps (both OEM and aftermarket) during nine years of vehicle ownership, I am convinced that the OEM caps are better (and significantly overpriced, unfortunately)....

 

I'll run the OEM cap on the Rock expansion tank. Update on the cooling system project: drove 15 mi yesterday. It was 92 degrees. Temp (on the smart phone) 195-203. It was a bit unnerving to drive w/ the "low coolant" warning on the dash but it's probably the sensor. No fluid loss to date (200 miles) and temp is fine. Stock temp "gauge" is worthless.

A couple of minutes after I got home, there was a large pool of coolant on the ground and an active drip. General area was near the right rear of the engine compartment but need to get some ramps so I can look under the car. Waited a couple of hours then checked the expansion tank. Coolant almost gushed out the top. I think it was "burping" yesterday using the top radiator hose. Got several large "belches" but no change in level. Zero leaks until now. I'll reduce the level in the expansion tank and do another drive.

Best drive since I've got the car. PO couldn't solve the RIP/ABS problem so it sat for months. I've done daily drives for a week. Now super smooth engine at idle (pretty impressive) and the car just seems more drivable. Not ready to take long trips but getting closer. Driving a big comfortable GT 'vert is a lot of fun.

 

I've been using Terry's Jag, SNG Barratt, FCP Euro, MotocarsLtd.com, & PartsGeek. I pay attention to the MFR on PartsGeek and I haven't been disappointed yet. Good prices and reasonable shipping. They also have a no-cost 1 year warranty on all parts, 2 or 3 year for extra $$. I also like Terry's Jag but they don't always have a part I need (either discontinued or need to order from Jag England & wait weeks...). Same for SNG Barratt. FCP Euro is a good source because all of their parts have lifetime warranties. The downside is that they only have a limited selection. MotorcarsLtd offers some parts for these cars I haven't seen available anywhere else. When all else fails I contact Jaguar Heaven in California. They're pricey but they usually can find a salvaged part for discontinued items. They were invaluable for sourcing the battery vent system & missing trim parts throughout the car.

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks. Much appreciated. I've talked to Jag Heaven. Agree good source. Anyone have any comments on Moss Motors?

 

I spent a few hours removing the thermostat housing, crossover pipe and water pump. Prior work done on this car evident as a couple of bolts missing: one on water pump and one on crossover pipe. I note that the smaller coolant hose pipe which exits from the crossover and disappears under the intake manifold is swollen at its connecting point. That indicates to me that it is original to the car and needs replacing. I did not order this hose and since I assume the intake manifold needs to come off to change it (terrible way to route a rubber hose IMO) I want to renew this and any other hoses that are under there. I am being hampered in my search for a diagram of this area as my internet is down and I am relegated to cell data use. Want to get an order in ASAP so I can get the car back together. ANYONE who has done this on a 2000 XK8 4.0 non supercharged or similar setup who knows whats under the intake manifold and can give me feedback on what I need to order?? Thanks in advance for any assistance with this!

 

Hose goes under the manifold. Not sure if it is apparent from photo-hose appears somewhat swollen.
What is it and are there any others that should be changed while I am there?

 

Hi Ken,
Something of a 'while you're in there' job.

What you will need:
Heater feed hose; NCA3945CD - the one you've arrowed
Heater return hose:NNE3946CA
3-way connector:NNE3944BA
Bypass hose: NCA2213AC

What you should consider replacing:
Crossover pipe: AJ85885
T-stat tower if it's not already been replaced with aluminium part.
TB gasket NCA3021BA
Octopus MJA6728AC if it's old/original. ($$$)

I replaced the 8 intake manifold seals AJ83356, but some have reused.

Something to release the fuel rail connectors

This is what's underneath the inlet manifold:



I prefer the OEM hose clamps over worm drive as they have some 'give' to allow for expansion: YMMV

 

Michael,
thanks for the very detailed and complete information response to my desperate request!!!
So appreciated. I am following your advice in every detail. Order placed for all.

 

It may seem like overkill but if your car has all the original hoses then better off doing it all now. Once you get the throttle body off and the intake manifold your life will be much easier and hopefully you will be done for the next 20 years. There are many good post that can take you through this process. Good luck

 

When I did mine a set of hose clamp tootls was very useful.

 

David,
thanks for the response and recommendation regarding hose clamp tools. I am looking forward to seeing this project through and the peace of mind that it should bring.

 

Ken - just spotted this:



...it should be connected to the T-stat tower here:


but looks to have broken off? Odd, as you don't seem to have any leaks- has it just happened?

 

Short hose seems to be swollen (see attached) Is this a should replace item?
Installed the Rock Auto expansion tank. Easy to do. Not sure why, but coolant temp is now running roughly 5 degrees cooler. Similar ambient temp's

 

Michael,
I was loosing coolant only sporadically needing to top off. It got worse as I noted coolant on the area around this smaller hose. I discovered a crack in that plastic fitting and it broke completely apart as I was poking it to confirm the origin of the leaking fluid. Yes, this I believe is the source of the leak which triggered this repair project. Keen eye!!

 

When it looks like Ken's, then yes. It's the bypass hose NCA2213AC

 

Here are 2 view of what's under the intake on a '02 4.0L ... You'll have to ignore the rags covering the intake ports.

 

rags ? Those are cleaner than my clothes.




Z

 

TC:
thanks for the pictures!! Always helpful to have them! I lifted the front of the intake manifold to remove and replace the thermostat housing with the new aluminum version but stopped without removing the manifold as I thought it better to have the new valley hoses needed before doing this. So, photos of great value to me. I am still awaiting parts ordered for replacing these “valley” hoses and now having read your post on another thread, I see that you recommend replacing two throttle body heater hoses while intake manifold is out. I don’t know whether I have these on order. I will check today and order if not already among those ordered for this job. I was notified yesterday that items in my order from SNG Barratt must come from their warehouse in England. Delay of 7 to 10 days possible. I was hoping to have the car together again and back on the road. A further lesson in patience for me.

 

Received valley hoses ordered from Barrett yesterday. Removing intake manifold today. I am following the detailed information/instructions Gus has here: JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
I found a fuel line disconnect tool for the two 3/8th inch fuel rail lines at O’Reilly Auto Parts for under $5.
I have to admit to a bit of apprehension as I start this project as I have never seen secondary coolant lines as complex on any of the classic cars I have previously owned.
I will post some pictures later today.