The breather hose appears to have been replaced by fuel line. The connector on the left Bank engine front and the T connector at the base of the throttlebody both modified. How should I handle this? The T connector at the base of the throttlebody no longer has a retainer and is simply pushed into pipe without a connector. Would you renew this with the proper hoses and connectors? Or simply source new sections of the fuel line hose and return to this modified version?
Also, I damaged the front fuel rail crossover hose pipe. It also appears to be fuel lin but has no clamps. Is this proper?
I am attaching some photos…..

See front fuel line connector between left and right fuel Rail. I need a replacement.

Breather hose at front left

Breather hose connection at throttle body.

No retainer at the T. Simply inserted into pipe.
Original retainer clip broken.

 

I ran the fuel line fix on the part-load breather for a couple of years without any problem, but a new one from Jaguar (part # AJ84880) isn't expensive and will solve the broken connector issues for you:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic...ther-hose.html

I found it odd as a non-techy that the connections on the fuel rail didn't have some form of clamp, but it is so. Someone will doubtless jump in here to advise what you can do

 

I have attempted to post twice since my last. For each attempted a week apart, I included pictures with parts number details. These appeared to upload but never made it to the forum. I am disappointed that I have been unable to post updates. I suppose this may be caused by some error on my part.
I delayed my work to order every rubber piece I could identify that would be more conveniently replaced while intake manifold is off my 2000 convertible. Last parts received day before yesterday and I resumed my project yesterday. Will provide more if this post makes it to the forum.

Zoom in to view parts numbers

 

Had a very productive day yesterday with the replacement of all heater hoses and octopus hose. I used the removal of the pump up from its mount on the firewall and it worked well for removal and replacement of hoses connected directly to the heater pump. Getting the component back into position on the firewall was rather challenging. The two nuts on the bottom that must be reached from under the car are tough to position by one person working alone. So nice to have it done!!!

Before removing old hoses

Before removing old hoses

New hoses installed

New hoses installed

Looking down at lower bolt position

Heater pump location on firewall before reinstalling

 

Well done....

 

Completed all heater, valley hose installation and also octopus and throttle body hoses. Renewed manifold gaskets and installed manifold, torqued bolts to 15 lbs and secured fuel lines; coolant reservoir; clips on injector lines and finally re-

Valley hoses installed

Manifold gaskets renewed


Green Throttle body gasket sourced from Barrett— black one was in place and re-used

installed throttle body on re-used gasket as one ordered from Barrett’s was incorrect…hope this doesn’t present a problem (fingers crossed).
Left to do: install new fuel line across front fuel rail, replace fresh air intake; fill and flush cooling system and then drain as much water out before refill with proper antifreeze/coolant. Hope I got it all done right and she starts without errors.

 

When I did my coolant system overhaul, similar to you, I got a Check engine Light. Don’t worry.

Traced it to the knock sensors which probably just got wetted/ dirty. Ran the engine up to temp, turned off and CEL went off next time I started.

 

Thanks David,
I have had intermittent issues with the car since purchased beginning of the year. Would get check engine light and reduced performance…with coolant low and once had smell of burning coolant. Kept car from being reliable transportation. Hopefully this work will end those issues. I have documentation that shows tensioner and chain replaced on this year 2000 with 80k mile convertible. Also new lines to header release of top; power steering pump change
and a transmission band change. Always good to get input from more experienced!! Thanks again!

 

One note of caution....

After your hose replacement job is complete, continue to monitor your engine bay for potential coolant leaks. I was 0-for-2 with replacement hoses made by URO on my previous 2005 S-Type. Both of the two new URO hoses I installed on that car left me with small leaks, even after placing two hose clamps per side instead of just one. The coolant seepage seemed to come from the inner layers at the ends of the hoses. No matter how tightly I screwed down the clamps, I could not get those hose ends to stay completely dry. Not enough leakage to be dangerous, but enough to **** me off and swear that I would never install another URO replacement hose again....

 

Jon…That is concerning! I didn’t know/had not heard that URO brand hoses might do this!?!
Thanks

 

I completed all elements of the full rubber hose/cooling system and thermostat housing upgrade/water pump replacement yesterday. Ran a flush treatment followed by water and finally new coolant. It has been over two months since I parked the car to start this project. I will take the car out today for longer drive with fingers crossed in hope that I have cured its compulsion to throw codes and go into restricted performance mode.

All done-back together after two months (parts orders and travel to visit grandchildren intervened). Decided to leave cosmetic covers off for now.

 

Good luck and keep us posted....

 

I’ve heard anecdotal tales (on other applications) of them having QC issues.

AFAIK, they are the cheapest, so that might indicate something.


Z

 

Nice feeling to have it all complete, isn't it? It's a butt load of work in a single operation but it's the easiest way to get the $%^* aux system done.

I reused my original throttle body gasket half a dozen times when replacing the heater hoses so I don't think you'll have any problems with it. I haven't (yet). I also got a low coolant level fault the first time I refilled the coolant after the octopus/spider hose was replaced. The coolant wasn't low after I filled it but I think the code may have set when I lowered the windows while the engine was empty. The fault cleared after my shake down run around the block and it hasn't come back since. I think you'll be fine.

Now on to the hard stuff...

 

So, I Took the car out for a couple of short trips. I am getting intermittent yellow light with restricted performance light. I am getting 00327 code. That was yesterday. Today, when I tried to start the car it would not stay running. I open the hood and jiggled the wires leading to the to knock sensors. It started just fine after that and ran well again. Now I have check engine light on And restricted performance notice intermittently. I drove it about 30 miles with several stops today. The diminished restricted performance light would disappear during part of the trips and then reappear.I have some additional diagnostic work ahead.

 

Sound like you are going to be replacing the knock sensor or associated wiring to resolve the issue. Not a big deal on the XK8’s, but on the XKR’s the supercharger has to come off to replace a knock sensor. With the right (skinny) tools you can get the sensor out and still leave the intake in place.

It is possible the wiring might have damaged during your intake R & R. But with the code you have there isn’t much aside from the wiring or the knock sensor itself that can be the issue.


About 10 months ago I had the bank 2 knock sensor die, with the resulting restricted engine performance, maximum rpm at 3,000. I did a total hack repair to fool the car into clearing the restricted performance.

The history of which is detailed in this topic:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...r-hack-238806/

NOTE: not recommending anyone doing the same thing to their car.

Due to unexpected physical limitations (heart issues) I haven’t been able to perform a proper fix so far on my ‘02 XKR. Maybe this winter I’ll have a shop do it.

FWIW, My “total hack repair” is going on 10 months and 11,400 miles. Performance is unchanged from normal. I’m doing everything possible to monitor timing and engine condition including regular inspections down the spark plug holes, so far no evidence of any damage.

Z

 

Thanks TropicCat. Hope you are correct about TB gasket re-use.
ZRay, I am planning to clean up and inspect wiring to both knock sensors in the hope that this will solve the RP issue.

 

Still getting codes: P0172 & P0175 : System too rich bank 1&2. This is new codes in this car. I also checked fuel trims and timing but I don’t know what I am looking at.
Any ideas what needs to be investigated?

 

Both long terms should add up to 10 or less. Zero is what you are shooting for.

first thing to check is the air cleaner. Is the element passing air ?

take off the wheel liner and make sure no animal is living inside air ductwork !

next up would be to clean or replace MAF. They are not that expensive, unless you have an early XKR.

don’t waste money on the aftermarket units (like I did). There’s no equivalent to the Denso MAF units.

I went thru 3 of the cheaper MAF’s and none of them would measure the air flow correctly. Then I gave in and put in the OEM Denso. Bingo. Worked perfectly .
next up in the troubleshooting sequence are the injectors. If they are leaking, They will give you the rich codes and require replacement or cleaning.

Z

PS The shop manual goes over the troubleshooting procedure at length. Reading the manual like a good mystery novel should be a requirement for these cars.

 

The fuel trim issues may be the connection to the snorkel at the air filter box. When I bought my car I got one of those codes and it was obvious that the fuel was too lean but I didn't know why. I had removed the snorkel a few times and reinstalled it just like it was when I took delivery of the car. Turns out that was a VERY bad idea. The previous owner didn't install that joint correctly and it was leaking air AFTER the MAF sensor. The MAF sensor is in the end of the tub in the air box where it connects to the snorkel. Since this is before the snorkel joints any leaks will show up in fuel trim codes. Make sure the slots around the air box end of the snorkel (I think there are 4 of them) are completely covered up when you tighten the ring clamp. Also make sure the ring clamp is tight and that the snorkel doesn't move after the ring is tightened down.

If that joint looks good the next place to look is the connection at the TB. Make sure the rubber gasket is placed correctly and the 2 hold down bolts are snug. If that joint also looks good you'll be looking for vacuum leaks. Maybe the TB gasket, maybe the intake gaskets, maybe the plastic tube on the passenger side below the TB.

I suspect the problem is one of re-assembly. Happy hunting.