Chipped Harmonic Balancer
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You used a 3 prong puller instead of the one that bolts to the centre of the pulley......Seen that a few times
I wouldn't worry about it, as long as you can see there are no other cracks, like I said seen it a few, and it didn't effect the running on those XKs, I would just find it incredibly annoying knowing it was there
I wouldn't worry about it, as long as you can see there are no other cracks, like I said seen it a few, and it didn't effect the running on those XKs, I would just find it incredibly annoying knowing it was there
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So, XKRacer, I am a bit confused and would like some clarification. That fix that you propose would change the weight of the balancer and reduce the lip to hold the belt in and would you propose that to be a better fix than having the balancer repaired to its original condition by repairing the chip area and restoring the balancer to its original condition?
#11
So, XKRacer, I am a bit confused and would like some clarification. That fix that you propose would change the weight of the balancer and reduce the lip to hold the belt in and would you propose that to be a better fix than having the balancer repaired to its original condition by repairing the chip area and restoring the balancer to its original condition?
I would not machine the lip completely off just enough to either lose the chip or leave enough to retain the belt.
It is also the cheapest route, as this seems to be part of the OPs criteria, if you weld the pulley, as it is cast, will harden as good as glass and be impossible to machine, it would then then need to be ground clean and could cause a lot more cracking, and lets face it, it would look no where near as good, OK not many will see it but being the person I am it would be my own personal option apart from replacing.
Just IMO
#14
lol, ok i took everybodys input and decided to grind it down and fill it. Ground down with a dremmel til it was smooth and shiny. then mixed up some jb weld and filled in the chip, let dry, ground down to proper shape, filled in a few spots, dried and reground, looks almost like nothing happened. I dont know what the weight difference is from jb weld to cast iron but on a piece that big cant be much. the car is back together and seems to run fine. will post pics when i can and keep u posted if anything goes terribly wrong
#15
Sounds like a very good solution. While the weight difference between the ground out area and the original balancer might not have been a problem, surely the weight difference between the original metal and the jb weld is much less. Let's hope that it holds it's place and does not fly off. I have used jb weld sparingly over the years, but usually with good results.
#16
Late comment
I'm a bit late to chime in but...I think you went the correct route with JB Weld. Had you tried to weld cast iron, the heat required could very likely have ruined the rubber isolation band between the balancer and pulley. If constructed like most harmonic balancers, the outer pulley is pressed on to the hub and the rubber keeps it there.
#18
A wreaking yard is the best source. Try here: Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market
. . . and welcome to the forum!
. . . and welcome to the forum!
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abee (10-12-2011)