I recently had a top latch hydraulic failure (green goo on console) and I am exploring my solution alternatives.

Replacement part # available through local dealer and on line is HJB 8256 AB . Is this the full length hose kit or the splice in repair kit ?

If this is the splice kit, has it been improved to the point that splice failures are rare?

Is the OEM full length hose kit still available through Jag (p/n HJB 8256 AA ???).

I have read the stickys and most posts on this, forgive me if I am asking questions which may have been addressed but I am just looking for a little clarification and the best current solution.

Any input is appreciated,
Thanks
Bob

 

Welcome to the crowd. Any repair splices for the old hose has been removed from the shelf by Jaguar because they did not last. Installing one is not worth the effort or the money. I am unable to answer your question on the part number but if you call the parts department they will tell you. I answered you PM with additional information you requested. Let me know if I can provide any additional help.

 

Thanks Gus

I asked the parts guy over the phone if that was the repair kit or the full length hose and he did not seem to know what I meant. Perhaps someone here has some part # info on what Jag is currently offering?

Best regards
Bob

 

If I am not mistaken the difference between the AA and AB is just that the AB is the most recent updated version of that part.

 

That would be good if AB is the updated version of the OEM full length hose. I would like to replace the full length and not splice the old hose. I have opened up the header and confirmed that it is one of the hoses. It is frayed right at the connector just like the pics on Gus's page. Interesting also is that the hose was pretty well crimped in the area that the driver's side visor bolts in. Outer hose covering was cut at this crimp as well........

 

I am guessing that it would be the full length hose since, when my hose failed at the latch, the dealer tried to get the splice kit from Jaguar but it was unavailable. Consequently, full length hoses were installed. I took it upon my self to install the pressure valve that Gus and Walt came up with. In short, this reduces operating pressure from about 1600 psi to 900 psi which should help protect against future hose failure. Top operation with the valve works just the same in terms of time to open/close the top.

Doug

 

Yes, I just confirmed with local Jag dealer parts guy HJB 8256 AB are the oem full length replacement hoses which they stock. The splice kit is HJB 8256 BA and needs to be ordered. Price is about the same ($336 + tax for long hoses, $312 for splice kit). I think that I will shop a bit to try to get a better price on the full hoses and try to tackle this myself.

Pressure relief valve project will follow..........

Thanks
Bob

 

www.jaguarparts.com = $200.18

www.parts.com = $176.03

 

Thanks Lew,

Hoses on the way and I've started tearing apart my interior......

 

Now is the time to replace your cylinders if they show any signs of leakage, and check out your rear speakers too. Bother are EZ to replace with the interior out.

 

Right cylinder is clean and dry - I'll check the left. Speakers sounded good at the outset of the project : l

 

I had one leaking 'ram' or cylinder when my lines were changed out. It was groanin!

 

Okay, finally got everything buttoned up and works like a charm:

New OEM front latch hoses $200
Press relief valve upgrade kit from LSI $279
Being able to open/close the top without a green goo shower - PRICELESS!!

Thanks to Gus, Walt and everyone for tips and input to get me through this project

Rgds
Bob

 

another satisfied customer! congrats Bob.

 

So it sounds like you did the hose replacement yourself? How did it go and how long did this take?

Doug

 

Let us know the shortcuts.

 

Yes I did it myself and I am a person of meager mechanical ability.

The new hose kit from Jag comes with 2 hoses already together with tie wraps and new white clips that hold hoses to A pilar (I'm not sure from previous posts if they always came this way).

Some things that I found helpful:

1. pull the weather stripping part way off by fuse panel on driver's side, this allows for some play with the side of the dash and allows a bit more room for feeding the hoses through. I duct taped the pump end of the new hoses to the disconnected latch end of the old hoses to help "snake" down from "A" pillar past fuse panel near kick panel. Then untaped to run around where the front of driver's seat was.

2. I was able to un-tuck carpet from under center console which made it unnecessary to remove center console

3. after untucking carpet and removing kick panel, foot rest, and front/rear seat I was able to fold back carpet enough to remove old hoses and run the new hoses - good advice from Gus was to not remove aluminum scuff plate along driver's door sill (you don't need to remove to fold carpet away from area that hoses run and that plate would be easily damaged)

4. I removed speaker on rear passenger side. It is easier to do this if you remove the bar that runs over the top of the speaker box. I then re taped the pump end of the new hoses to the latch end of the old hoses to feed through the area behind the speaker into the trunk after cutting all the tie wraps along the way and freeing from white saddle clips

5. I removed pump to install LCI press. relief valve and attached new latch hoses to pump at this time. Also bought Pentosin CHS 11s from NAPA for $21 to replace fluid

I estimate the actual work time I put into it was 6 hours give or take but I did it over a week or so (disassembled interior while waiting for hoses and relief valve upgrade kit to arrive through fedex) and I really took my time because this car isn't my only vehicle and I could leave it apart in my garage and come back to it at my leisure.

 

One other thing:

I bought a role of foil tape for duct work at Home Depot ($7) and used it to wrap the new hoses where they run along the header and A pillar to act as a radiant barrier. I'm not sure how effective this will prove to be but it made me feel good to do it

Old hoses were cooked so badly that the outer black vynil coating crumbled in many places as I was removing them. End coupler on failed hose fell right off the hose as I was unscrewing it from the latch assembly

 

Here you go:

LSI Controls, Inc. (Contact Info)

Doug