Convertible popping fuses
#61
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I have done what you and Spurlee did, to wit., removed the header panel to lube and clean hardware and switches. Operation is still intermittent, and unreliable. Either pushing up on the header bar, or cranking over the claw to force it open is the override that I use to open the top. I am convinced the problem lies in one of the switches; and for that, I will need to remove the latch. gordo
Last edited by Gus; 08-27-2010 at 09:48 PM.
#63
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You are correct.
#64
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I am beginning to think that the micro switches are beginning to fail and that is part of the misoperations on the roof and the doors. Not entirely sure that they are the same switch but they look near the same to me. I need to dig into it (dissect) and see only my system is working well now. If it begins to operate improperly again I will begin checking and report back.
#65
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This is an update on the roof problem. The way I see it is that the roof rams will not operate until the roof latch is satisfied that the roof latch is open and cleared. http://www.gusglikas.com/images/Auto...atchRepair.pdf I hope this helps!
#66
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Hey guys--the final update is that the dealer had the failed pump for quite a while and it sounds like they were willing to let me have it. Then just a couple of days ago Jaguar asked for the part to be sent to them. Oh well.
On a tangential note (maybe should be posted at the "resistor" thread), but at the risk of being sacrilegious, since the price of the resistor solution is so cheap I was wondering how this would work out IN CONJUNCTION WITH the LSI valve. If I had to choose only a single solution, I would definitely opt for the LSI valve (which I have for quite some time now). However, perhaps the resistor installed along with the LSI valve would provide even more protection. Walt? Gus?
Doug
#67
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The only reason to put the resistor in is if you want the roof to operate slower. The pressure readings that were given for that are fiction as the mechanical gauge that was used is incapable of responding to the short pressure spikes. Take a close look at data point "A" which is the pressure unmodified. That tells the entire story.
Your motor failure is probably the result of many reps of running dead head as that really loads the motor and the resistor thing does not resolve that problem. Multiple bad things happen when you take a motor close to stalled. Mostly it damages the brushes and commutator due to the slow transition between poles. People have grabbed onto the resistor because it is cheap. The fact that the pressures are BS is lost in the desire to save money.
Nothing will ever take this rube goldberg contraption to the point of not failing so regardless of what you do, there will be issues.
Your motor failure is probably the result of many reps of running dead head as that really loads the motor and the resistor thing does not resolve that problem. Multiple bad things happen when you take a motor close to stalled. Mostly it damages the brushes and commutator due to the slow transition between poles. People have grabbed onto the resistor because it is cheap. The fact that the pressures are BS is lost in the desire to save money.
Nothing will ever take this rube goldberg contraption to the point of not failing so regardless of what you do, there will be issues.
#68
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The only reason to put the resistor in is if you want the roof to operate slower. The pressure readings that were given for that are fiction as the mechanical gauge that was used is incapable of responding to the short pressure spikes. Take a close look at data point "A" which is the pressure unmodified. That tells the entire story.
Your motor failure is probably the result of many reps of running dead head as that really loads the motor and the resistor thing does not resolve that problem. Multiple bad things happen when you take a motor close to stalled. Mostly it damages the brushes and commutator due to the slow transition between poles. People have grabbed onto the resistor because it is cheap. The fact that the pressures are BS is lost in the desire to save money.
Nothing will ever take this rube goldberg contraption to the point of not failing so regardless of what you do, there will be issues.
Your motor failure is probably the result of many reps of running dead head as that really loads the motor and the resistor thing does not resolve that problem. Multiple bad things happen when you take a motor close to stalled. Mostly it damages the brushes and commutator due to the slow transition between poles. People have grabbed onto the resistor because it is cheap. The fact that the pressures are BS is lost in the desire to save money.
Nothing will ever take this rube goldberg contraption to the point of not failing so regardless of what you do, there will be issues.
All I know is that you and Gus worked on this problem for months and went to great lengths to support your conclusions. Then along comes this "magic fix" and it is almost universally accepted without the type of rigorous work that you both did.
Doug
#69
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Gus and I collaborated to help solve a nasty problem. I made the solution available to others because I knew that it would be really difficult for people to put that together on their own. I did that with the knowledge that it was something I could stand behind.
These forums are all about people saving money on car maintenance so its no big surprise that the lure of doing something on the cheap is appealing. "If it looks too good to be true" has never been more apparent and it is always amazing how the people who think they are the smartest fall the hardest. I think super glue for tensioner plastic and rubber bands for ABS wires are next.
These forums are all about people saving money on car maintenance so its no big surprise that the lure of doing something on the cheap is appealing. "If it looks too good to be true" has never been more apparent and it is always amazing how the people who think they are the smartest fall the hardest. I think super glue for tensioner plastic and rubber bands for ABS wires are next.
#70
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8 hours? for what I diag it on the internet without seeing it all they trying to pull your leg? Of all the pumps that Ive replaced, as we discussed. if blowing a fuse you disconnect the pump. If it still blows you have a circuit issue. if not( Ive never had anything but the pump, then its the pump and you replace it. Yes the pump aren't that readily avail since they don't fail often. But they can do a dealer locate or I think the one I did a couple months ago came from the UK...
When I went in I specifically told them about the fuse as I'd tried replacing it and it had instantly blown - same as the O.P. to this thread. I wish I'd found this thread first - but didn't bother doing much research as I figured it would all be covered by the warranty.
#71
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Hey Larry--it is good to know that aftermarket warranties will cover this issue since I bought one from my credit union (a Platimum warranty that claims to be all-inclusive).
However, the dealer that claimed the fix was $5,000 must have been pulling a fast one and/or he was figuring in both the pump replacement and the hose replacement (either one of these along is maybe $2,000).
When my pump failed I did a bit of independent searching around and these were always about $2,000 just for the part!! You would think they were made out of platimum.
Doug
However, the dealer that claimed the fix was $5,000 must have been pulling a fast one and/or he was figuring in both the pump replacement and the hose replacement (either one of these along is maybe $2,000).
When my pump failed I did a bit of independent searching around and these were always about $2,000 just for the part!! You would think they were made out of platimum.
Doug
#72
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey Larry--it is good to know that aftermarket warranties will cover this issue since I bought one from my credit union (a Platimum warranty that claims to be all-inclusive).
However, the dealer that claimed the fix was $5,000 must have been pulling a fast one and/or he was figuring in both the pump replacement and the hose replacement (either one of these along is maybe $2,000).
When my pump failed I did a bit of independent searching around and these were always about $2,000 just for the part!! You would think they were made out of platimum.
Doug
However, the dealer that claimed the fix was $5,000 must have been pulling a fast one and/or he was figuring in both the pump replacement and the hose replacement (either one of these along is maybe $2,000).
When my pump failed I did a bit of independent searching around and these were always about $2,000 just for the part!! You would think they were made out of platimum.
Doug
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