convertible top hydraulic leak
#1
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This is my first post. Have driven Jaguars and Austin-Healeys for 40+ years. Currently have three Jaguars XK8, XJ8, 1963 MK2 and a 1958 Austin-Healey Sprite. Now having said that, I have been readignthe horror stories of the hydraulic hose failure of the top. Is this common in all years. My XK8 is a 2005 with 29K miles. Great forum and much good information. Thanks.
Butch
Twentynine Palms, CA
Butch
Twentynine Palms, CA
#2
#4
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Here is how it will happen. There will be a period of great convertible weather--not too hot, not too cold. During that time you will have great fun dropping the top to enjoy the wind-in-your-hair driving experience. All will seem right with the world. Suddenly, one day you will notice a drop of greenish fluid on your console and perhaps think it was some errant bird. You will look up and around and find nothing in the sky, but then you will notice some moisture on the metal mesh piece that is adjacent to the rearview mirror, between the interior overhead lights. That is when you know that you are officially inducted into the "oh no my hydraulic convertible hose is leaking" XK club.
It seems that many cars have some particular issue that it is known for in terms of going wrong. In the front-wheel-drive Asian cars it was CV boot, in Chevys (like my Corvette) with the LT-1 engine, it was the optispark distributor. With the Jaguar XK models, it seems to be timing chain tensioners, convertible hydraulics, and headrest adjustment.
Doug
It seems that many cars have some particular issue that it is known for in terms of going wrong. In the front-wheel-drive Asian cars it was CV boot, in Chevys (like my Corvette) with the LT-1 engine, it was the optispark distributor. With the Jaguar XK models, it seems to be timing chain tensioners, convertible hydraulics, and headrest adjustment.
Doug
#6
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Hey H20--it is really easy the second time around! I had to re-secure the shrinktube connection since the sheathing had separated a bit after the seatback got jostled a bit. It took maybe about 15 minutes to roll up the upholstery, secure the connection, and close it back up again. It was almost fun.
Doug
Doug
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#8
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First I tried a hair dryer but it did not seem to be working. It was cold outside when I was first doing the repair and maybe the hair dryer was not hot enough. So I tried using the gizmo that comes with the leather/vinyl repair kits that is sort of like a mini soldering iron with a broad metal face about the size of a nickel. That seemed to work pretty well by rubbing it over the shinktube. I guess the best thing to use is one of those hot air guns that is specifically made for shrinktube, or just use electrical tape.
Doug
Doug
#9
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Yes, I've had the same leak problem. Just bought the XK8 with 67k and its first major repair was the leak. Hose plus actuator replacement = $2k repair cost, mostly labor.
Hopefully, I won't need a replacement again for another 60k miles.
Gents, other than reducing top down time, is there a method to avert the apparent inevitable mortality of these parts? For example, perhaps only open the top when the entire car has been warmed up, such as after it has been sitting/driven in the sun? I suspect when warm, the fluids would be more viscous and the hoses a bit more flexible, rather than opening it when the car has been sitting in a cool temperatures like a garage or winter.
If temperature does play a factor, perhaps use of certain oil and rubber that are not susceptible to cold weather is a good mitigating fix.
Hopefully, I won't need a replacement again for another 60k miles.
Gents, other than reducing top down time, is there a method to avert the apparent inevitable mortality of these parts? For example, perhaps only open the top when the entire car has been warmed up, such as after it has been sitting/driven in the sun? I suspect when warm, the fluids would be more viscous and the hoses a bit more flexible, rather than opening it when the car has been sitting in a cool temperatures like a garage or winter.
If temperature does play a factor, perhaps use of certain oil and rubber that are not susceptible to cold weather is a good mitigating fix.
#10
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In my case, it probably had less to do with the weather (hardly ever gets cold in southern California) but more to do with the fact that the previous owner had only put on 600 miles in the 21 months that he owned the car. It was garaged but probably saw long periods of time without being used. After I had the car a month or so and started using the top regularly, that is when the leak happened. Your idea about waiting until the car was warm before activating the top seems to make sense. Other than that, it is probably better to use the top somewhat regularly versus infrequently.
Doug
Doug
#13
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It also looks like no matter what you use, you have to be careful not to slam the seat back as any large movement of the cable can lead to separation of the sheathing unless it is spliced together really tightly.
Doug
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