Convertible top latch hydraulic problem
#102
Its less than an hour
I am new to Jaguar and new to this site. Four days ago I just purchased a 1997 XK8 with 20,000 miles. The car has been garaged its whole life and in great shape but the convertible top worries me, especially after reading this thread. My top goes down just fine but is very slow at going up and requires several attempts to close- I have to lower and attempt to raise about 5 times before the top actually has enough oomph to close. I have a couple of questions: I read about "gelling" of the hydraulic fluid. This car has only traveled about 100 miles in the last five years. Could the fluid have gelled thus causing the top to close very slowly? If so, how would I go about flushing and refilling the system? Also, the latch doesn't seem to open all the way when I press the button to raise the top. I have only lowered and raised the top 4 times so far, I just use my hand to fully extend the latch when closing- about half an inch or less of movement. Does anyone think it just needs to be lubricated or will I get a bath of green fluid someday soon? I apologize if I have posted this in the wrong section but this thread seemed to be the most appropriate. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
You do need the fluid, this is $80 from my dealer or $25 for the same can without a Jaguar sticker on it from a different source.
#104
I've searched online and it appears I should use Pentosin fluid but I'm unclear on which Pentosin fluid to use- CHF 7.1, CHF 11S or CHF 202? Any suggestions? I want to make sure that whatever I use will mix well with what is already in there in case I can't get all of the old fluid out. Also, any suggestions on where to purchase the fluid (besides the dealer) would be appreciated. Thanks!
Last edited by intucker; 07-20-2009 at 09:49 AM.
#105
I recently updated my page on the Hyd Hose Evaluation. I dissected both the Lift and roof Latch and it all goes back to the line pressure or a lot of defective parts! Walt has been sending a lot of info on the pump and I hope to get it posted this weekend. Will keep everyone posted with the pump results when I get them.
#106
#107
#108
How To Know When FULLY Flushed ?
So, I'm picking up my 04 SoftTop today ~ and it seems I'm back to latch issues (its one reason I sold my SL500)...
Obviously, I'm flushing the system. Which from Gus' page I have to tear apart the trunk material and suck-out the old and pour in the new.
Since the fluid I'm putting in, looks like what I sucked out...How do I know when its cycled through since I'm told NEVER let that pump run dry - I couldn't find this specifically on the webpage, albiet LOTS of GREAT stuff there. Thanks, in Advance all that Gus !
Anybody ?
Obviously, I'm flushing the system. Which from Gus' page I have to tear apart the trunk material and suck-out the old and pour in the new.
Since the fluid I'm putting in, looks like what I sucked out...How do I know when its cycled through since I'm told NEVER let that pump run dry - I couldn't find this specifically on the webpage, albiet LOTS of GREAT stuff there. Thanks, in Advance all that Gus !
Anybody ?
#109
#111
Spent the day tearing out my Rear Qtr-window regulator. What fun that was !
It seems the cable came off the upper/lower guide wheels and wrapped around itself (which caused the grinding noise). The wheels appear fine, so not sure why it came off. I've torn the motor assembly apart, re-strung the wheels, but need someone to help 'tighten' the cable (they run the window switch while I ensure the cable stays on... more later.
It seems the cable came off the upper/lower guide wheels and wrapped around itself (which caused the grinding noise). The wheels appear fine, so not sure why it came off. I've torn the motor assembly apart, re-strung the wheels, but need someone to help 'tighten' the cable (they run the window switch while I ensure the cable stays on... more later.
#112
#113
Well, removed the regulator motor, then took it apart amongst flying apart cables and gears. It took some logic to figure out the dual-spool gear, then trial and error to figure out how many times I needed to 'wrap' the top and the bottom set of windings. Best part was stringing the bottom pulley in the door since it was very tight...but got it.
No idea how anybody replaces the entire unit as no way that motor pulls out the top and no way the regulator comes out the side ?
So far, so good, as the unit currently works...just too an entire day, but was worth it.
I realize it came off once, but lets hope it stays this time !
No idea how anybody replaces the entire unit as no way that motor pulls out the top and no way the regulator comes out the side ?
So far, so good, as the unit currently works...just too an entire day, but was worth it.
I realize it came off once, but lets hope it stays this time !
#114
Just the other day I installed a short version of this new hose set. Well my attempt to make a short version has been blown away by a leak that redeveloped on the old hose at the connector. At the present time a short version is not available.
After installing the short version I did verify that the hose kit fittings we came up with will work. My concern was that the new fitting may not fit in the bulkhead at the latch. It is snug but it does fit with no room for error. However, what I did find out was that Jaguar/Powerpackers connector that was supplied with the old hose kit is a real problem and gives out. This occurred after being installed for only a few weeks. I went back on the install and identified where the weak spot was. I am now looking for another splice kit. I have an idea how it can be improved but need a connector kit. If a set is removed and you can send it I would greatly appreciate it.
Gus
After installing the short version I did verify that the hose kit fittings we came up with will work. My concern was that the new fitting may not fit in the bulkhead at the latch. It is snug but it does fit with no room for error. However, what I did find out was that Jaguar/Powerpackers connector that was supplied with the old hose kit is a real problem and gives out. This occurred after being installed for only a few weeks. I went back on the install and identified where the weak spot was. I am now looking for another splice kit. I have an idea how it can be improved but need a connector kit. If a set is removed and you can send it I would greatly appreciate it.
Gus
#115
#116
I would like to thank everyone who contributed to the post on this topic. Yesterday it was a gorgeous 70º in Northern New Jersey, so I was looking forward to driving up to the lake with the top down and enjoying the day. You could imagine my horror when me and my lady was sitting in the driveway ready to depart, and after pressing the switch to lower the top, green fluid begin to gush out of the top all over her white pants. I have owned the car for 10 years and luckily beside from having to replace the battery this has been the only problem so far. It must be noted I only drive the car maybe 2 months out of the year other than that it remain in the garage. Unfortunately, I am not technically inclined so I will have to take the car to the dealership for repair. Not sure what the repair cost will be here on the east coast, I can only hope its under $2,000.
#118
Welcome to the crowd, you have been blessed by the green monster! Well if it is any consolation you are not the first and you will not be the last. It is a real shame that this takes place. If you elect to take on the project let us know. As for the price I have heard replacements range from $1600.00 to $2100.00 and I live in Northern Virginia. Who knows you may have a latch problem and not the hose, although the chances of that are slim. Well good luck! If you are up to it let us know how you make out.
#119
I would like to thank everyone who contributed to the post on this topic. Yesterday it was a gorgeous 70º in Northern New Jersey, so I was looking forward to driving up to the lake with the top down and enjoying the day. You could imagine my horror when me and my lady was sitting in the driveway ready to depart, and after pressing the switch to lower the top, green fluid begin to gush out of the top all over her white pants. I have owned the car for 10 years and luckily beside from having to replace the battery this has been the only problem so far. It must be noted I only drive the car maybe 2 months out of the year other than that it remain in the garage. Unfortunately, I am not technically inclined so I will have to take the car to the dealership for repair. Not sure what the repair cost will be here on the east coast, I can only hope its under $2,000.
Just wondering--why is the car in the garage being undriven for 10 months? I suspect that more problems can arise from a car NOT being driven versus being regularly driven.
Doug
#120