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I want to change my valve cover gaskets. The driver’s side gasket is leaking. Via Rockauto, Mahle sells a set that includes both gaskets, Spark plug seals, and rubber washers for the bolts. However, the state of my bolts and studs makes me feel uneasy about re-using them or even removing them.
Are they likely to snap or become rounded during removal? Do any of the forum sponsors sell them?
FWIW, my suggestion is to dab Kroil (Brand of penetrating liquid) with a cotton swab on each stud (soak it) and try to soak the bolts good prior to removal attempt. Then go easy with a nut driver. Loosen a bit and then turn it back, and continue in segments on each fastener until all are loose. There is an acquired feel that comes from experience that allows one to recognize when a bolt or nut is failing. Not everyone has experienced this but it comes from experience and failure to recognize the symptoms. Ask me how I know. Kroil, antisieze, oil and grease are all ways near my work. Threadlocker is also needed where applicable. :-)
On my XK8 one of the center bolts sheared off a loooong time ago and what I ended up having to do was use a dremel tool,,, really wear down a cutting wheel to the size of a dime (little bigger little smaller) and notch the top enough so a flat head screw driver could turn it out. To begin, with care, I used a small plier to grip the tip blade of the driver while pushing down hard... Holding breath it turned out... NO FUN...
In the event this happens,,, pack rags ALL around the grind point so no metal crumbs her into the cam wells and crevices. That's not good.
The advise above is great advice but still, the whole thing has these rubber seals/gaskets that kind of prevent fluids in or out... I would do what is suggested AND take a short blunt tipped chisel/cold chisel,,, place it on top of each flat head bolt, and a well fitting socket on the ones that are but over bolt with a good extension (preferably 3/4 variety),,, and give them all a good wack in the down direction with a small hammer. Careful precise blows.
I have a valve cover bolt that snapped on my 928 Porsche,,, Google it, a whole other kind O disaster...
The sheared bolt is the bane of loving older vehicles.
As JayJagJay says, it's just one of the things you have to deal with on a 20year old car. If we worry about all the things that might be corroded and/or break, you'll have grey hair in no time. As Michaelh says, these cam cover fasteners shouldn't be torqued up too hard anyway - that's maybe why the gaskets have started leaking.
When you take them off, make sure you keep them in order. ESP. the ones near the cam sensors on the top rear. Those bolts are a different alloy from the rest to prevent interference with the sensor. It's in the manual but wanted to make sure you knew
When you take them off, make sure you keep them in order. ESP. the ones near the cam sensors on the top rear. Those bolts are a different alloy from the rest to prevent interference with the sensor. It's in the manual but wanted to make sure you knew
I was planning on buying new bolts, I didn't know about the different materials.
Let's suppose I don't round off any of them, what's the best way to clean them up before reinstallation? Dipping them in some sort of acid?
Go gently with a quarter inch deepwell over those studded ones esp. I'd be surprised if yours were that stuck. The XK I rescued lived it's entire life near the beach and the bolts "looked" correded topside but all came out clean and easy. I'd be surprised if yours are worse than those.
As mentioned, the torque settings going in are light; 9-11nm. Don't over torque those plastic valve covers
When you take them off, make sure you keep them in order. ESP. the ones near the cam sensors on the top rear. Those bolts are a different alloy from the rest to prevent interference with the sensor. It's in the manual but wanted to make sure you knew
I.NEVER.KNEW.THIS!!!!! I am having problems SINCE I replaced the LH cylinder head!!! How predictably wrong an effect can/does this have on the sensor? Holy smokes!
I.NEVER.KNEW.THIS!!!!! I am having problems SINCE I replaced the LH cylinder head!!! How predictably wrong an effect can/does this have on the sensor? Holy smokes!
Yeah the manual doesn't go into DETAIL WHY this is the case but it does state it here. All of the valve covers I have removed the ones near the Cam Sensors in the rear were different alloys. Not sure if anyone has seen different but this is my experience.
Also, if you don't already have one, get yourself a 1/4'' universal joint and extension, along with standard 10mm (i think) and deep well. You'll thank me for the quarter inch universal joint getting the ones near the towers and rear lower. The first time I did it I screwed around for a ton of time, next time it zipped out quickly (on the corroded car) with a 1/4'' air ratchet.
I went a bit further than the valve covers though:
Yeah the manual doesn't go into DETAIL WHY this is the case but it does state it here. All of the valve covers I have removed the ones near the Cam Sensors in the rear were different alloys. Not sure if anyone has seen different but this is my experience.
Also, if you don't already have one, get yourself a 1/4'' universal joint and extension, along with standard 10mm (i think) and deep well. You'll thank me for the quarter inch universal joint getting the ones near the towers and rear lower. The first time I did it I screwed around for a ton of time, next time it zipped out quickly (on the corroded car) with a 1/4'' air ratchet.
I went a bit further than the valve covers though:
Hahaha! Good SHOW, Sir...
The cam sensors on the back upper inside, on the rear upper inner corner of both heads read the the revolution of the LOBES on the intake cam shaft. At speeds, it will signal the VVT - variable valve timing - to advance or retard. VVT is controlled (powered) by oil pressure in my 2002 using the solenoid/actuators on the front of the engine,,, top front of the cam covers. Anywho...
I would imagine that the WRONG metals in the vicinity would thro OFF the readings when sensing these spinning cam lobes...
I worked and worked to set/reset my VVT on CHead swap and NEVER got it right. I have a CEL with one code - forever. It's a P1356, 86,,, or something or other... PITA. I think I tried setting the VVT and retardation of the timing 5 or 6 times before I said F-IT and let her ride... Luckily,,, I have a friend who would put an inspection sticker on the car even if it was in flames, lol
BUT --- Could it be that DAMN bolt????
Thanks,,, now I am going to be haunted by a 10mm bolt, lol....
Yeah the manual doesn't go into DETAIL WHY this is the case but it does state it here. All of the valve covers I have removed the ones near the Cam Sensors in the rear were different alloys. Not sure if anyone has seen different but this is my experience.
Also, if you don't already have one, get yourself a 1/4'' universal joint and extension, along with standard 10mm (i think) and deep well. You'll thank me for the quarter inch universal joint getting the ones near the towers and rear lower. The first time I did it I screwed around for a ton of time, next time it zipped out quickly (on the corroded car) with a 1/4'' air ratchet.
I went a bit further than the valve covers though:
Oh. And for that lower back corner, the 10mm cam cover bolt, I got myself one O these. I get it started, then use the socket naked, and turn it off by hand... It was and is a pain in the ****... 1/4 inch mini breaker with a 9inch handle...
BUT --- Could it be that DAMN bolt????
Thanks,,, now I am going to be haunted by a 10mm bolt, lol....
Possibly. P1384 is A bank, P1396 B bank.
The bolts fit rear uppermost on each cam cover. They're more of a gold colour, and IIRC are the only two that are not captive in their spacers.
Possibly. P1384 is A bank, P1396 B bank.
The bolts fit rear uppermost on each cam cover. They're more of a gold colour, and IIRC are the only two that are not captive in their spacers.
I'm sorry. It is P1396... I've been living with it so long I don't even notice anymore... What harm would it do to hunt down the right bolts...? Can't cost much. I really just had NO idea...
Great info guys! I'm going to have to come up with a system to make sure I put all the bolts back in their correct positions. I think, but tomorrow I will check if my deep well sockets are deep enough for the studs. I think I have a ¼ inch universal joint somewhere, but those are very finicky to use. When using it with my torque wrench, I just know that the joint socket will reduce the torque setting of wrench. Does anyone have any idea how much I will need to compensate on the torque wrench value setting?
About the fuel line, is that a quick disconnect fitting? I don't see where my quick disconnect tool would fit on that line. I'm talking about the fuel line in the first picture of the first post of this thread. How can I de-pressurize that line so that I don't get fuel leaking or spraying everywhere when I disconnect it?
A bolt-storing approach that has always worked for me would be to draw a rough outline of the top of the engine on a sturdy piece of cardboard. Be sure to label the outline appropriately (front, rear, left side, right side, etc.). Then punch small holes in the outline exactly where the various bolts go. Push the loose bolts firmly into the holes and presto, you cannot get confused when the time comes to put everything back together. Just be sure that your punched holes are slightly smaller in diameter than your bolts are....
Great info guys! I'm going to have to come up with a system to make sure I put all the bolts back in their correct positions. I think, but tomorrow I will check if my deep well sockets are deep enough for the studs. I think I have a ¼ inch universal joint somewhere, but those are very finicky to use. When using it with my torque wrench, I just know that the joint socket will reduce the torque setting of wrench. Does anyone have any idea how much I will need to compensate on the torque wrench value setting?
About the fuel line, is that a quick disconnect fitting? I don't see where my quick disconnect tool would fit on that line. I'm talking about the fuel line in the first picture of the first post of this thread. How can I de-pressurize that line so that I don't get fuel leaking or spraying everywhere when I disconnect it?
I've heard some say they pull the fuel pump relay and start the car,,, let fuel pressure drop and car will stall. Q: are you thinking to disconnect the fuel line for this job? I'm not sure of the year of you car,,,, I guess I should go back and look,,,, but I don't think you will need to do that...
Just real quick - if it's a newer car 2003 or 4 and up, I don't think you will have a relay but a fuse - or unplug the fuel pressure module - and start the car. The FPM is on the RH of the boot,,, situated on the RH wheel well.
I finally got around to this today. I thought it would be an easy job. Everything was going smoothly following your directions. The bolts and studs were easy to remove with minimal force. I did have to buy the 9 inch mini breaker bar for some of the more uncomfortable ones. I also used the suggestion of making a drawing of the valve cover with the bolt positions and making a hole for them where they would sit. I even numbered each one with the torque sequence.
The problem began the moment I tried to remove the valve cover from the engine. I thought I could work around that fuel line (the one in the first picture that connects to the fuel rail), but alas, the cover has no way of clearing around it. I could not find a way to disconnect it. If it's a quick connect, I couldn't figure out where to use my fuel line disconnect tool to remove it.
Does anyone know how to disconnect that fuel line? Also, which of the trunk relays/fuses supplies the fuel pump?
02-04-2020, 02:03 PM
Corroded Valve cover bolts and Studs
