Crank Pulley more than loose
#1
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Hi All,
Didn't realise how long winded my post was going to be so here is a synopsis: crank pulley doesn't turn when the engine is running.
I attempted to take the XKR (1998, 4.0) for an MOT this morning. It hasn't been driven for about 18 months due to a minor accident (mostly cosmetic, nothing to do with this). It has been regularly ran up to warm and the battery kept charged, no issues with the engine.
Warning light came on on the way to the MOT - 'battery not charging'. Only 3 more miles to go so I thought I would look at the issue when I got there. Then noticed that I didn't have power steering so assumed I had snapped a belt. I was on a clearway at the time so pulled off somewhere I could stop safely and noticed the temp was climbing to the top of the scale. As I turned the engine off the coolant system exploded. Great. I popped the bonnet and checked the pulleys. Both in tact. Left it for a bit then fired the engine back up for a few seconds and noticed that the crank pulley wasn't turning, so obviously neither were any of the auxiliary items.
I am assuming that the crank pulley is not 'keyed' onto the crankshaft and it just relies on friction? There were no horrendous metallic noises so I am assuming that the crank has just come loose?
Obviously there is the issue of the coolant being on the outside of the engine but I am hoping just a pipe split / connection failed. It was leaking just behind the right hand wheel, not entirely sure what part of the coolant system is down there, but it is probably the hardest bit to get to knowing my luck.
Thank you!
Didn't realise how long winded my post was going to be so here is a synopsis: crank pulley doesn't turn when the engine is running.
I attempted to take the XKR (1998, 4.0) for an MOT this morning. It hasn't been driven for about 18 months due to a minor accident (mostly cosmetic, nothing to do with this). It has been regularly ran up to warm and the battery kept charged, no issues with the engine.
Warning light came on on the way to the MOT - 'battery not charging'. Only 3 more miles to go so I thought I would look at the issue when I got there. Then noticed that I didn't have power steering so assumed I had snapped a belt. I was on a clearway at the time so pulled off somewhere I could stop safely and noticed the temp was climbing to the top of the scale. As I turned the engine off the coolant system exploded. Great. I popped the bonnet and checked the pulleys. Both in tact. Left it for a bit then fired the engine back up for a few seconds and noticed that the crank pulley wasn't turning, so obviously neither were any of the auxiliary items.
I am assuming that the crank pulley is not 'keyed' onto the crankshaft and it just relies on friction? There were no horrendous metallic noises so I am assuming that the crank has just come loose?
Obviously there is the issue of the coolant being on the outside of the engine but I am hoping just a pipe split / connection failed. It was leaking just behind the right hand wheel, not entirely sure what part of the coolant system is down there, but it is probably the hardest bit to get to knowing my luck.
Thank you!
#2
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That sounds very bad, has the pulley bolt come lose. I think it has a locking ring inside the pulley wheel, mine was very hard to get off. It is done up to 375nm or more. Have a look at the back of the engine, the octopus hose can pop off the large plastic connector under pressure. Driving it with no pulleys turning is a recipe for disaster.
#3
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I am assuming that the crank pulley is not 'keyed' onto the crankshaft and it just relies on friction? There were no horrendous metallic noises so I am assuming that the crank has just come loose?
Obviously there is the issue of the coolant being on the outside of the engine but I am hoping just a pipe split / connection failed. It was leaking just behind the right hand wheel, not entirely sure what part of the coolant system is down there, but it is probably the hardest bit to get to knowing my luck.
Thank you!
Obviously there is the issue of the coolant being on the outside of the engine but I am hoping just a pipe split / connection failed. It was leaking just behind the right hand wheel, not entirely sure what part of the coolant system is down there, but it is probably the hardest bit to get to knowing my luck.
Thank you!
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...00/#post558784
Hopefully it's just come loose and hasn't damaged the crank surface.
Agree with Bones that it could be the octopus, although just about any of the rubber/plastic could have popped.
Last edited by michaelh; 10-24-2018 at 05:23 PM.
#4
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The "atmospheric recovery bottle" is just behind the front wheel (behind the plastic liner).
With no coolant circulation (no water pump) - the coolant might well boil over and blow itself out of the pipe of least resistance.
Haven't "been there done that" but would suggest you remove the harmonic damper / pulley (shouldn't be difficult !!) - replace the bolt and sleeve with new - tighten it all back to the correct torque which is VERY tight - refill the engine with coolant - pray to the patron Saint of Jaguars - and with luck, you might find everything is back to normal.
With no coolant circulation (no water pump) - the coolant might well boil over and blow itself out of the pipe of least resistance.
Haven't "been there done that" but would suggest you remove the harmonic damper / pulley (shouldn't be difficult !!) - replace the bolt and sleeve with new - tighten it all back to the correct torque which is VERY tight - refill the engine with coolant - pray to the patron Saint of Jaguars - and with luck, you might find everything is back to normal.
#5
#6
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I saw this TSB yesterday, guessing thats the one. I wondered why not just use a woodruff key.
There was at lease a litre or so of coolant on the floor so assuming a hose has burst but fingers crossed for an atmospheric recovery bottle pipe popping off. It only drove 1.5 miles from the alternator warning light coming on, mostly downhill slowing into a 30 zone so hoping it wont have done any permanent damage in that time. The mechanic recovered me back to his workshop, I figured it will be easier to sort on his 4 post than on my drive. I am hoping he has an update for me later today (depending on what the update is anyway!)
There was at lease a litre or so of coolant on the floor so assuming a hose has burst but fingers crossed for an atmospheric recovery bottle pipe popping off. It only drove 1.5 miles from the alternator warning light coming on, mostly downhill slowing into a 30 zone so hoping it wont have done any permanent damage in that time. The mechanic recovered me back to his workshop, I figured it will be easier to sort on his 4 post than on my drive. I am hoping he has an update for me later today (depending on what the update is anyway!)
#7
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#8
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When that happens, make sure you run your heater on full blast ("HI"). Heat off the engine is heat off the engine. The heating system has its own (electrical) pump and might move enough water to avoid major overheating. If you have the option, you can monitor the actual water temp over OBDII. Obviously, running the heater that way will run the battery down even further, but what is the point of a perfectly loaded battery in an overheated engine? Just a thought.
#9
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There is a MANAGE ATTACHMENTS that does absolutely NOTHING!!!
bob
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#12
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This same thing happened to me a few years ago. Had to replace the pulley (is it properly called a dampner?).
had a bit of a shock when the mechanic looked up.the price. There were 2 types, one low to mod hundreds$$$, the other well over a thousand.
we wound up buying and installing a used one. Total price all in: about $800 as i recall. Fyi the used dampened was about $375 of that.
John
had a bit of a shock when the mechanic looked up.the price. There were 2 types, one low to mod hundreds$$$, the other well over a thousand.
we wound up buying and installing a used one. Total price all in: about $800 as i recall. Fyi the used dampened was about $375 of that.
John
#13
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Thanks for the great news Johnken! I think it is called a 'Harmonic Balancer'. I can find some 2nd hand ones for around £200 which isn't the end of the world. The mechanic has said that it didn't actually look damaged at all so it should go back on as is. I did think about an uprated one if we need to replace it but they all seem to rebuild your existing damper with a larger aluminium supercharger pulley.
#14
#15
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+1 on do not reuse old One! That failure was a nightmare for me, you never want to go through this again especially if it happens on a holiday in an area where no one will help you.
FYI - passing on lesson learned from that situation: in case folks didn't know, AAA (automobile club in America road rescue service) does not cover bridge tolls for the truck towing you home. Can't recall the exact $$$ but it was more than $100 to cross the Verazano bridge and you better have it handy...
benjwom, I hope the fix goes smoothly for you mate.
John
FYI - passing on lesson learned from that situation: in case folks didn't know, AAA (automobile club in America road rescue service) does not cover bridge tolls for the truck towing you home. Can't recall the exact $$$ but it was more than $100 to cross the Verazano bridge and you better have it handy...
benjwom, I hope the fix goes smoothly for you mate.
John
#16
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The crank pulley is a two piece thing, this is how it damps. The two pieces are joined by a rubber damper that is bonded to the inside of the two pulley halves. If it is slipping, its because the damper ring has released inside.
The only fix is to send it in for a rebuild or try to find a new one. The chances of the balancer actually rotating on the crank is very slight. A rebuild is cheaper than new, if one is even available.
The only fix is to send it in for a rebuild or try to find a new one. The chances of the balancer actually rotating on the crank is very slight. A rebuild is cheaper than new, if one is even available.
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