Dead boot lid button
#21
The same thing will happen where ever the wire becomes fatigued, at any hinge point. If your window suddenly stops operating, or a speaker stops working, there is a better chance of finding a broken wire at a hinge point, than a failed component. It will also save you considerable pain, messing around inside a door.
It happened more frequently on the older high line Jags, because Ford hadn't taught Jaguar the use of relays yet, and smaller lower amperage motors were not yet being used.
I remember the size of the cables going from a window switch, in an XJS, and it surprised me, because the Audi's of the same vintage had wires a third of the size. The Germans were relay monsters, and had them hidden all over their cars, so there is overkill on this subject also........Nice post......Mike
It happened more frequently on the older high line Jags, because Ford hadn't taught Jaguar the use of relays yet, and smaller lower amperage motors were not yet being used.
I remember the size of the cables going from a window switch, in an XJS, and it surprised me, because the Audi's of the same vintage had wires a third of the size. The Germans were relay monsters, and had them hidden all over their cars, so there is overkill on this subject also........Nice post......Mike
#22
Trunk lid & License plate light!!
I had the same problem with the trunk lid switch but noticed something else! The light for the license plate was not working. Guess what? That wire is in the same wire bundle (trunk lead link harness) as the trunk lid button. I had to solder both of them during the fix. Everything works great....right now....!
#24
Thanks - Fixed my XF 2.7 in UK - 1 cable inside the flexible conduit that goes through from the boot lid to the car was broken - just threaded a new cable through and snipped off the cable each end where it joins the plugs and hoorah - it fixed 2 things at once, my boot switch and my number plate lights - must have been an earth cable perhaps? Very happy with this simple repair. Thanks to all who contributed.
#25
Jaguar XF 2010
On lines of what you folks are talking about I am going through the same issue with my XF 2010, the physical key ( inside the fob) is able to open the trunk however the Fob by itself is not- i do not even get the beep sound, nor does the button left below of my steering wheel open the trunk, do you think my car could also be having a wiring issue or is it a fuse gone bad? does anyone know how to check the fuse for this problem?
thanks in advance for your help
thanks in advance for your help
#26
On lines of what you folks are talking about I am going through the same issue with my XF 2010, the physical key ( inside the fob) is able to open the trunk however the Fob by itself is not- i do not even get the beep sound, nor does the button left below of my steering wheel open the trunk, do you think my car could also be having a wiring issue or is it a fuse gone bad? does anyone know how to check the fuse for this problem?
thanks in advance for your help
thanks in advance for your help
On mine the button on the boot stopped working but the fob button and internal release button worked, just not the one on the boot itself. That said, if the doors are opening ok with the central locking then it likely is a similar problem, just a different wire to mine that has broken as it has to receive its power from the same clump of wires. I don't believe it has a separate fuse from the rest of the central lock system, so if thats working then investigate power received at the lock. Fortunately its all a very simple task, if its that clump of wires..
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Eddie2019 (07-29-2019)
#27
#28
Don't slam the boot
Hi,
On mine the button on the boot stopped working but the fob button and internal release button worked, just not the one on the boot itself. That said, if the doors are opening ok with the central locking then it likely is a similar problem, just a different wire to mine that has broken as it has to receive its power from the same clump of wires. I don't believe it has a separate fuse from the rest of the central lock system, so if thats working then investigate power received at the lock. Fortunately its all a very simple task, if its that clump of wires..
On mine the button on the boot stopped working but the fob button and internal release button worked, just not the one on the boot itself. That said, if the doors are opening ok with the central locking then it likely is a similar problem, just a different wire to mine that has broken as it has to receive its power from the same clump of wires. I don't believe it has a separate fuse from the rest of the central lock system, so if thats working then investigate power received at the lock. Fortunately its all a very simple task, if its that clump of wires..
#30
#31
You are damn right :)
Appears to be a sharp edge inside the boot frame where the wires pass that eventually shears these wires in 2 after a while of slamming the trunk. After you repair the break, not a bad idea to pad that wire section with plenty of electrical tape or whatever you think best before pulling the harness back inside the boot frame. Not something you can get to inside to file down very easily. Most trunks need slamming a little, but sure not on the XK's. Caught my wife slamming mine after she took out her packages. Hard habit to break.
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Marc (02-14-2020)
#32
Appears to be a sharp edge inside the boot frame where the wires pass that eventually shears these wires in 2 after a while of slamming the trunk. After you repair the break, not a bad idea to pad that wire section with plenty of electrical tape or whatever you think best before pulling the harness back inside the boot frame. Not something you can get to inside to file down very easily. Most trunks need slamming a little, but sure not on the XK's. Caught my wife slamming mine after she took out her packages. Hard habit to break.
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Marc (02-14-2020)
#35
After stripping off the plinth and getting access to the button I discovered that it was actually working, so I set about the wiring harness that links the boot lid to the car. After a bit more testing with the multimeter I was able to isolate the broken wire in the harness.
The boot lid harness has a connector at the bottom right of the lid as you look at it from behind the car with the boot open. You need to strip back the lining to get access, the connector is actually tucked into the hole that the cable goes into but it can easily be pulled out and disconnected.
To get to the other end I pulled the boot liner on the back surface forwards and the side surface downwards, you then need to disconnect this connector, the part of the connector attached to the wiring that needs to come out needed to be pulled out with pliers as it has a slide on attachment to the car.
The grommets can then be pulled out and the harness extracted, the holes are bug enough for the connectors to go through.
I had planned to use the old wire to pull through the new one but it had completely snapped. I stripped back the insulating tape from either end of the flexible conduit and was able to push a new cable all the way through with out any real problem.
Both ends were them soldered together and covered in heat shrink and then taped back up with insulating tape.
The cable was then put back in the car, I used a bit of 3in1 oil on the grommets to get them back in place and the boot/lid lining replaced, job done!
The boot lid harness has a connector at the bottom right of the lid as you look at it from behind the car with the boot open. You need to strip back the lining to get access, the connector is actually tucked into the hole that the cable goes into but it can easily be pulled out and disconnected.
To get to the other end I pulled the boot liner on the back surface forwards and the side surface downwards, you then need to disconnect this connector, the part of the connector attached to the wiring that needs to come out needed to be pulled out with pliers as it has a slide on attachment to the car.
The grommets can then be pulled out and the harness extracted, the holes are bug enough for the connectors to go through.
I had planned to use the old wire to pull through the new one but it had completely snapped. I stripped back the insulating tape from either end of the flexible conduit and was able to push a new cable all the way through with out any real problem.
Both ends were them soldered together and covered in heat shrink and then taped back up with insulating tape.
The cable was then put back in the car, I used a bit of 3in1 oil on the grommets to get them back in place and the boot/lid lining replaced, job done!
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